gjdale

A bit of a struggle this morning fitting the aft panel section I had trouble getting it to fit in the correct position so kept removing material from the top edge so that it would rotate onto place. Then did a check only to fin out that the floor was not seated properly. The it all fell into place.

 
From under the cockpit looking forward.
 

 
then with the skylights replaced

 
Now the real fun begins getting the side panels to hook into position and lock the whole works together.
lunchtime
 
Michael

Thanks so much Derek, Bob and the "likes".
 
I've now completed the main deck furniture and fittings. These included the hatch coamings and gratings; the galley chimney; the main bitts; the gallows; the windlass and belfry; the pumps; the bowsprit bitts and the guns. This work was quite straight forward, using the excellent laser cut and PE parts. The guns presented the only issue-- whether or not to rig them . After experimenting with the tackle, I chose to go with breech ropes only.
 
Now it's on to finish the remaining hull items, including the head, which I continue to put off.
 
Bob

Tom... Sextant that's complicated!
 
Gary, Thanks I appreciate it.
 
The aft panels for the main cabin are now ready to be glued up, but lunch and a nap are in order first.
In order to get the paneling as clean as possible without sanding I love using my little block plane and the thickness planing jig. I needed to creat  slight taper from one end of the horizontal pieces so that the surfaces mated smoothly  so after getting to the main thickness , I added a couple of slivers of paper to create the difference from end to end.
 

 

 
All the parts are now interlocked with mortices and tenons and the panels are fitting with some ability to move.
 

 

 
Michael

made a little more progress on the light house.  the two smoke stacks were painted and cemented into place,  as well as the light steeple roof and dome top { what else to call it..}.

 

 

there is a dingy......small boat that is cradled off the side.  I was looking at how it is rigged in place and didn't like it.  I decided to drill three holes in the boat for eye bolts......one at the bow and two at the stern.

taking some of the thin wire,  I made up some eye bolts........I may make some smaller.

thinking of really thin rope or truss cables......whatever for...I have just the thing....from an armature that came from the guts of a clock.  the one in the living room stopped working and I bought the new mech for it { a kit}.   we've had the clock since we were married....sentimental 'ole fool that I am  

I got carried away with two other projects,  bit I managed to paint the wind director.

more to add soon  

1:48 HMS Granado ‘Cross Section’
CAF Model
Available from CAF Model for $325.00
 

 
The Granado, a bomb-vessel that was originally fitted out as a sloop (and ended her life as a sloop, also) was thought to have been designed by Thomas Slade. She is definitely a subject which has proven quite popular over the last 20yrs, with POB kits of this released by Amati etc. CAF Model’s intention to create a POF of this model was met with much interest, but before an eventual release of a full hull model, they have released a cross section kit in the same 1:48 scale. For only a section of a complete vessel, the box for this release is quite heavy and still of a reasonable size. Packed into a slimline corrugated box with a Granado label affixed to the lid, the kit reached me in the UK wrapped in a thick layer of extra card to protect it and reached me unscathed. 

Tom at CAF Model sent this kit minus two small sheets of parts which are now en-route to me, as he wanted MSW to be able to feature this as soon as possible. When those parts arrive, I’ll update this article with those extra photos. I quite like innovative features in model kits, and we’ve certainly got that here with the unique (at least I’m pretty sure!) building jig that accompanies Granado. Remember, that like all my reviews, this is an ‘in-box’ review and is designed to show you the contents of a kit as it comes, with any observations etc. How a model builds will be dependent on various other factors, but I will be featuring this as a build log on MSW in the coming days. 
 
CAF kits now have a break seal on them that needs to be cut through before opening, and when the lid is up, this quite heavy box can be seen to be totally chock-full of parts and other components. This kit has four heat-shrunk packs of timber in both laser and CNC cut types, a pack of strip wood, a box of detail components, a box containing the build jig, two sheets of rolled plans, and an instruction manual in a sleeve, also containing a small fret of photo-etch parts. 

I’m not too sure what timber this model is made from, but it has a nice pale-yellow hue and a very fine grain that’s certainly akin to some of the fruit timbers I’ve used over the years. As stated, all the parts sheets are sealed in shrink wrap. This is quite thick and needs a sharp knife to break through. Many of the parts sheets are just a few inches long, ranging from some quite thick sheets, to one which is just a veneer. Most are CNC cut and also pre-shaped on a multi-axis machine. 
 

Two similar packs to this are included in the parts total, and all contain exclusively CNC-cut/routed parts. The steel rule in the photo will give a good idea of the size of these sheets.
 

Here you can clearly see the CNC routing and the extra shaping on some parts. Also note the laser engraving too, for the bevelling lines. These lines are also engraved on the rear of some of these sheets. All sheets are clearly numbered with laser-engraved marks too, but the actual parts numbers will be checked against a part plan in the manual. This helps to save precious production time as engraving the sheet would doubtless add extra expense to the modeller. 
 


The fames for the model (18 in total), are constructed in the same manner as their real counterparts, and also include the ‘bends’ in them that were typically seen in vessels of this period. This is where the CNC routing comes into effect, producing those complex shapes for the modeller, saving not just time but also the complications that result from recreating such parts by hand. To be able to position these frames against each other accurately, a series of temporary resin inserts are also included. We’ll see those shortly.
 



Here you can see the breakdown of the frames into the various components including futtocks and chocks. A nice enhancement would be to use something that would represent fastenings in the complete frames…maybe black fishing line/filament which would look like nail heads.
 


Deck beams are pre-cut to shape, including rebates for deck support timbers etc.
 


More frame timbers with their engraved position/bevelling parts. Here you can also see the frame sections (top) which form the bottom of the frames that sit upon the keel.
 



These photos give an excellent idea of the CNC shaping of the most complicated timbers, allowing this to be a nice introduction into POF modelling, whilst removing what would be the most frustrating elements. 
 

Two longer packs include more CNC-machined/routed parts, but also a series of laser-cut sheets. 
 

Clearly seen in this photo are keel parts, knees and parts for the gun mount. 
 


And now some laser-cut wood! One thing you won’t need to worry about is shaping any planks, especially internally, where that is a little more complicated. Granado is planked internally and externally, on one side only, giving the viewer the ability to see a complete hull on one side, and skeletal on the other. You will also see cannon carriage parts here too.
 

This is the last pack of timber parts, again comprising both CNC and laser cut elements. 
 



More planking here, and also parts comprising the gun deck and hatch covers. Sheet 1A is a veneer. These appear to be facing parts for at least two frames. 
 

This is a highly prefabricated kit, making it perfect for that intro to POF, as can be seen from more pre-shaped planking etc. Whilst a gentle sanding of all laser parts is a good idea to remove any surface heat marks, you would need to see how the edges look when together as far as the char goes. Instead of using this for ‘caulk’, it could be a good idea to remove this char and simply use a pencil to represent caulk, as it’s less stark. 
 





The largest box inside this kit contains that unique feature I mentioned earlier. That is a clear acrylic building jig. Not only does this take over from the traditional ply jig we are used to seeing, but it’s also engraved so you can check alignment from every conceivable angle. This is assembled using short screws which also fasten into a series of specially cast resin blocks which keep everything square. The jig itself is a work of art. It’s a shame it’s disposable. However, more acrylic parts are included for a final display stand, engraved with the ship’s name. All acrylic parts are protected with a layer of peelable film.
 


The second and last box contains all the various fittings etc. 
 

These are the resin blocks which are used to construct the clear assembly jig.
 
 

I mentioned earlier about resin inserts which temporarily sit between twisted frames, to help with their positioning in relation to each other. These are those. When the frames are set, these are disposed of.
 
 

Screws for assembling the acrylic building jig.
 
 

These parts are very obvious. Here you see not only the main mortar with its beautiful detail including royal crest, but also the two cannon for the framed side of the hull. The other pack contains the capsquares for the mortar, and these are actually workable! Casting really is very nice and there’s minimal clean up. As these are brass, that aspect will be very simple with a nice set of files. 
 
 


More packs contain eyebolts, bombs, deadeyes, eyelets, swivel gun mount, rigging cord etc.
 
 


There isn’t too much strip timber in this kit, but there really doesn’t need to be. A small length of brass wire is also included.
 

A single fret of PE is included. Production is excellent, with small connecting tabs. You’ll find cannon and hull fittings here etc. 
 
 
Plans and instructions



 
Two sheets of plans are included. One of those covers all the frame assemblies, whilst the other also has various illustrations of the completed hull to help with overall assembly. These are quite long sheets and need double rolling to remove the curl in the sheets as they are quite tightly rolled. 
 




 
The instructions are line drawing format but also contain colour. These look pretty easy to follow and the writing is clearly understandable. 
 
Conclusion
As well as being an interesting subject of a popular vessel, this is going to be a perfect introduction to the world of POF. Being 1:48, this is also a nice size too without being too large for your shelf. I know some modellers would like to build in 1:48 but could find it restrictive when it comes to displays. This should alleviate that problem! Overall, this looks a very nicely designed and produced kit with some very nice and innovative features. Most importantly too, it looks to be real fun to build! Head over to CAF and snag yourself one.
 
My sincere thanks to CAF Model for the review sample seen here.
 









 
 
 
 

Next job was to make up the flag. I don't really know exactly how the flag was attached to its halliard but after a little research i came up with this.

Rigging complete.

I wasn't happy working with the black wire supplied in the kit, (personal preference, and nothing to do with the quality supplied).
What i wanted to do was use brass wire and some baught eyebolts so that i could shape and solder my own parts and then blacken them with Carrs blackening for brass, Here are the results.

First of all, many thanks to all of you for your interest in my construction report.
 
After a very busy week, I got back to model building a bit.
And again a few small things for the model on the way to the goal.
 
After the last work on the mast tops, the corvette's standing rigging is being built one floor higher.
Before the topmast shrouds can be put on, I first have to make and put on the burton pendants for the topmast burton takle. 

 

 

 

 
 

Very nice work Ryland. I must get back to mine soon, having had a month away doing other projects.

A bit more progress to report. The hull has been sanded, filled then sealed so I turned my attention to some of the deck work prior to planking the same. I constructed and installed the coamings for the hatches and wet well, they were quite straight forward tapering each to meet the deck planking so no photos. I turned my attention to the cabin coaming and the plans called for 1/8" stock with a 1/16" rebate to accept the cabin sides flush. I initially tried planing the stock at a 45 degree angle and then cutting out the waste by hand, that didn't work out well. The best laid plans of men and mice apparently came into play.
 
I then struck upon the idea of using a 1/16" piece of wood in front of the 1/8" stock as a guide for my blade. It worked wonderfully. I cut one side and turned the stock over to cut the other side, I am very pleased! As you will see in the photos I used a disposable scalpel for the cuts, these were recommended on this forum and are wonderful inexpensive tools, I like them much more than hobby knife blades for cuts in small wood. 
 


 

Very nice work Ryland. I must get back to mine soon, having had a month away doing other projects.

it isn't set up like that.........the brass tube only covers the plastic tube and doesn't enter the floor or base.  nice thought though     it's basically a support for when the deck was put on for the center.   it took a little bit of do'in,  but the ID of the plastic tube is now much larger.....large enough to pass the wires through.  the wires, when I knew I had enough sticking out inside,  it was twisted and flattened to fit in the groove.  it was then covered with duct tape.

I'll add another small piece to the edge later.  

it kind of gives you a sense of how thick the wires are.......the rest of the wires for this are much smaller

the transformer is small......the size of a charging unit........I've got some of the older ones.....they are much larger  {don't know why I still hang on to them........oh yea.......'cuz I'm a pack rat!}

so the circuit board was connected to the wires.......soldered......and then shrink wrapped

 

now that the plastic tube is gone,  I need to fit a holder in the roof for the light.......a smaller brass tube did the trick here

this brass tube would have been large enough for the transformer wires.  you can see how much room these wires have.  for excess sake,  these wires were shortened so they wouldn't bee seen in the windows.  I did have to drill the hole in the light steeple a tiny bit larger and left enough so the light is level with the glass.  I was going to paint the tube that stuck out,  but I got stupid and glued the glass dome on it.  I haven't glued the roof on......if I had thought of it....I could have soldered plugs on the ends,  in the event  that I need to open it up.......I still can really.  I haven't glued the roof on.

I tried to take a video with the camera......but it's poor quality.......shaky and blurry in part of it.  I'll try to get a good one so you can see the light working.       for now,  here are a couple to suffice  

 

 
yes Lou......the Krabbenkutter is still on the table......still need to add the boom vangs {I have part of them rigged.....does that count?}  the U.S.S. Arizona is still on the table too.......these are my next projects to finish.   got to get this table cleared......

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

STAGE 31: BRAKE PARTS FOR THE REAR RIGHT WHEEL

Lastly, another brake unit is built. This time for the rear right wheel.

 
That's it until next time!

First a bit of sorting here are a couple of shots this morning, time to put away some of the rabbit holes.
 

 
 
 

 
then rearrange the cabinets and work surfaces.
 

 
Easy passage now around the benches with better access to the cutter also set the bowsprit back out.
 
Picking up where I left off with the cabin interior will take a day or two to get back into the swing of things (doors, cupboards etc.)
 

 
I need to sort out how to lock the parts together inside the hull, a bit like putting ships in bottles really. Big pieces that have to go through a narrow opening in the right sequence.
 

 
Now for some fish and rice for supper.
 
Michael
 
 

What else would you expect at a Speedway, Glenn? 🤣🤣🤣

Neat solution Chris. 👍

What else would you expect at a Speedway, Glenn? 🤣🤣🤣

What else would you expect at a Speedway, Glenn? 🤣🤣🤣

Hello again! I've started to open up the smaller gunports between the quarter and main decks but was unsure about my marking out. I used a cardboard copy of the drawing originally and pinned it to the side of the hull. This worked out OK for the most part but since the gun carriages will be visible on this deck I wanted to get the heights right.
After some head scratching I decided to assemble a carriage and modified an existing port size jig to match it's center to the cannon bore. Once I broached through and set the tool on the deck I could then see which way I needed to take out more material. Placing the carriage in-between times to see what it looked like. Pleased to say it seemed to work OK and the general alignment of the top ports looks acceptable. 
I put a little handle on the jig so I could reach under the deck above. I hope the pictures clarify what I did.
There is one little problemette though... The instructions tell me that some cannon arrive at certain bulwarks and the false cannons attach to them.
What I didn't account for is frame 7 on this deck requires a complete cannon carriage assembly and is now in the way somewhat.
Anyhow, I've decided to cut this port through and shave away at it so that it becomes a hanging knee. Not much of it is visible from above. Beat to quarters!

That is some really beautiful joinery there Dave!

And here we go again. 
 
Short positional test of the guns in interaction with the capstan.
 
Guns run out ...
 

 
... stowed ...
 

 
... cleared out of the radius of the capstan bars.
 

 
The next stages of construction will require the missing deck beams. Here is the status. The missing beams give a spaciousness and light that never existed.
 

 
Beams pre-bent in a template. Supports prepared. Yes, you might be amazed, actually these are parts of the kit 😉
 

 
Because of the main mast, no deck beam can be set at this point. Therefor, two strong carling bridge the gap and also give guidance to the mast. But alas, there's my double-deck pump in the way. This mystery, the haunting specter of all plans between 1790 and 1860.***
 
*** 
 
 
 
Either the mast does not fit through ...
 

 
... or they are too far apart.
 

 
A quick look at the model of the Princess Royal reveals that the pump cases are built around the carlings, so one inner tube lies to the left and one to the right of the carling. 
 

 
So pump torn out, a through hole was dug into the case, carling fitted.
 

 
A cotton pad was put as dirt trap underneath and the groove for the carling was carved.
 

 
And done.
 

 
XXXDAn

That is some really beautiful joinery there Dave!

Very nice joinery Dave!