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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Kevin, the cheek blocks should be at the back of the yard not the front. From here, the sheets run through fairleads at the bottom of the yard to your lovely sheet block. Once you have the cheek block at the back this makes perfect sense. You're getting to be quite the 3D resin guy! I'm impressed you were able to drill through the yard axis for such a length! This model is going to be rock solid. When will you be marketing your tru-to-life rendition of Cutty Sark? 😀 ps I think you are are referring to the studding sail booms (stuns'l booms) as "yardarms". -
Bob, just noticed your boat has twin rudders. I recommend you glue in a brace across the hull near the top of those two plastic rudder tubes, to reinforce them. Digression: in the 70's I made a Class M RC yacht (50" LOA) and the instructions said to epoxy in a block of wood inside the fiberglass hull through which to drill the hole for the rudder tube. Can't imagine why now but I used balsa wood. I sailed that boat for about a decade. A few years ago I thought it might be fun to fix her up and sail her at the cottage. She was running well directly away from me on a reach when I realized I could see the top of the deck, somehow. How could this be?? ........ She was sinking by the stern because the balsa had let go from the bottom of the hull and water poured in. The lead keel bulb took care of the rest. Luckily we are in a fairly shallow bay (20ft at deepest) so I snorkeled out and managed to find her on the lake bottom. Amazingly the RC stuff was fine after being packed in rice, but the battery was wrecked. Fond memories.
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Bob, thanks for the reference. I will check out the web site. You're definitely going with a brushed setup, so you don't need to worry about KV or T which only applies to brushed motors. 4S, 6S etc refers to the number of cells in a lithium or nickel hydride battery pack, as an indication of battery voltage. A given voltage requires a different number of cells for these battery types since the chemistry of the basic cells differ and so does their voltage. This is all new to me too as back in the day I used lead acid or latterly gel cell. Looking forward to your build. Is the hull plastic?
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Bob, nice boat, nice project. In high school in the 70's I used to launch a new RC boat every spring. This Constellation is a little like my old Billing Boats "Admiral" cabin cruiser. I'm interested in your new RC gear; are those brushless motors or brushed? If brushless, how did you select the KV and T specs? The modern ESCs are a far cry from the old rheostatic speed controllers I had to use. What a waste of power! After getting back into model ships a few years ago with static builds I decided to try RC again, with a scratch Roman galley in progress. I'm also considering a refit on my scratch WW I battlecruiser (that was my build before grade 13), wondering whether to buy brushed ESCs to use with my old motors or go all brushless. But I find the brushless motor specs very confusing.....KV.....T.....4S-6S...???? I wouldn't know what to select as replacements for my old decaperm motors. All the web seems to talk about are motors for speed electric boats not scale. All my local hobby shop knows is cars.😢 Looking forward to your build. As Chris says there are too few RC boats here. Here are some pics of my "Admiral". She has a hard chine hull so the entire skin is four pieces of thin ply. I just cleaned off most of the dust for the pics. Wish I had painted the black stripe instead of using electrical tape 😬 it was always coming unstuck at the stem. The last pic shows the 0.35 gas engine I mounted in her with water cooling adapters at one point - not with that prop obviously - the keel came out of the water about halfway back from the bow! Had trouble keeping enough air flowing to the engine too; there's a big brass tube under the bench seat as an air inlet. You can see another brass tube inside, which was the exhaust out the transom, after the muffler. Fond memories......
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Resellers, ... BAH ..(spitting on the ground). There's always a fly man ready to grift a buck.
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Hi Glen, that's called "tumblehome". Kept higher-up weight nearer the centreline, for stability. You're on the way to another triumph! She looks great!
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- Captain Kidd
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Awesome! I've been aboard once but never seen her under sail. Amazing to think she still sails at her age. When I took my family there maybe 15 years ago they were talking about a refit to put camber back into the deck, undoing a previous refit which put down a flat deck for some reason. Or did I mishear the story?
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- Le Soleil Royal
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I'm sorry; are we talking about model kits or concert tickets? Look out for them on resale sites.
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When I became aware of this issue, I thought (when I get there) I will get some sculpy clay or something, fill a little box with it, then press 1/2 a cannon barrel into it, flush. After it's dry I than clamp it in position on my drill press table and place cannons into it one by one to drill. The projecting "hoist handles" or whatever would be a minor issue.
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Yes, that's the photo I remember. Bashed one is much better. The hole is for the breeching rope in the old French fashion..
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Bill, still think you should PM Dafi. Look at the details he's going into for cannons on his Constitution; he did the same for SR's guns.
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No indicating marks or notches? It seems a jig is required for sure.
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Yes, the breech end should be about even with the rear of the carriage to allow it to sit nicely on the quoin (elevating wedge). What did you think of the wheel positions?
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Glen, I laughed when I read that. However, ..... obviously there's no room for any drive mechanism in your hull, but if you could engage a watchmaker I'm sure he/she could come up with a tiny horizontal linkage to join the oar looms within the hull, each with a swivel joint. Then all you would need is a vertical arm to oscillate this linkage back and forth, said arm going down through a hole in the bottom of the hull, then down through a hole drilled in the bottle, to a synchronous gear motor and some sort of cam linkage hidden within your treasure chest base. There, I've planted the basic idea, now all you have to do is expand on the details...... 😆
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1/32" railings! Pass the headband magnifiers please ......
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As I recall from looking at my SR instructions before stashing it, they want you to paint an area on the bow black. could this line be the dege of the black bit?
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If/when I get to my SR I will move the trucks and trunnions on the visible guns, and leave at least the trunnions as is on the hidden guns. Somewhere or other I saw before and after shots of these cannons modified. Built straight from the box, they look odd with the wheels too close together, and more especially with the breech ends dangling out in space behind the carriage. I'm pretty sure it was Dafi but God knows where in his extensive writings. Suggest you PM him and ask about it.
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I didn't know you had an airbrush, Bill. Did you ever use it on Victory?
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Fantastic work! I marvel at the height of the hull over the water compared to the underwater portion. Makes the Heller Soleil Royale look like the epitome of stability. 😆
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- marisstella
- marisstella model ship kits
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What I object to is people who take any two random dogs and breed them and come up with a cutesie name for the puppies, then sell them for a prince's ransom. That said, such puppies are probably healthier than many "purebreds" with their various health issues due to inbreeding.
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Very cute puppy. It is hard on kids when a dog that's been around all their lives goes; we went through that too.
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