Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Very nice model! Regarding the lower ratlines, they didn't all span across all the shrouds. Consult reference books for details. -
The provided boats themselves are lacking, both in numbers and details. Victory carried six. I seem to recall that you added some ribs or floorboards to yours, but do you have any extra Revell boats in your parts box from earlier builds? They could be pressed into service. Blue Ensign went to much trouble over his boats, especially the pinnace, which inspired me to do the same.
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Wow!! Just took a look at Chris's figures, which didn't exist when I finished my build. I may buy 1:96 Nelson and Hornblower to replace mine.
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Bill, you can get an ensign and a union jack, period correct, from BECC. They make several sizes. I never did add a commission pennant; couldn't find a period accurate the right size. Maybe someday I can add one. The rudder chains become rope; they pass through a hole in the channel just in front of the gunport with the double lids and end in a knot. Blue Ensign converted a Revell figure to Nelson, and another to Captain Hardy. I copied him. We used the figure standing with arms akimbo. Cut off Nelson's arm and use a sliver of evergreen to fashion the pinned-up sleeve. Cut his legs at the knee and remove a bit then reattach since he was shorter than Hardy. Shave down the lower pant legs to simulate stockings. Add uniform coat tails with evergreen. Fashion the bicorn hat from evergreen with a drilled hole to glue onto his head. Add a sword from brass tube. I even added a queue to Nelson but it cannot be seen behind him. Remember, Nelson wore his hat in the older style, across his head, while Hardy wore his in the new style, fore and aft. Here are my Nelson and Hardy. My "flesh" paint was a bit thick and went on as a bit of a blob unfortunately. They look awful close up, but at viewing range they look good. Hardy's "stockings" didn't go well, or maybe I just gave up after Nelson.
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Congratulations Bill! Very well done! No mean feat rigging a Heller Victory. And in record time too! Just one hurdle remaining in this steeplechase - the painting of the lanterns....😀
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The painted breeching rings look great! Don't worry, nobody will be able to tell on the finished model. There should be two glossy pages with photographs from the real ship between the pages you show in your photo. Evidently someone has torn them out. It's not unusual for old Longridge books to be missing some of the pen and ink drawings, but some photos??? 🤨 You could check your book for missing pages by looking for the Plans and Plates listed on pp x-xi. Here is the missing page at issue here; the text is helpful.
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Bill I meant the 3rd photo of post 1376, but this one will do. Your white driver sheet which runs between the upper block on the driver boom and the block on the traveller bar should not be wrapped around itself, it should belay on the cleat just forward of the bar.
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In the 3rd photo of your post, the running end of the sheet is wrapped around itself between the blocks; this is frapping, just like on the bowsprit gammoning. Just unwrap it and belay on the cleat instead, then throw on a coil. A quick fix. 🙂
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Bill, nice job on the coils; that's a tedious task. I wanted to have slack lower braces with a nice sag but I just could not get the thread to adopt the same (plus you then need to get the clewline to look taught, somehow). Tried smearing some glue on and rubbing it etc but no luck, so mine are taught. I noticed in one of your photos that the driver sheet is frapped around itself between the blocks; the running end should be belayed on the nearby cleat see pg 268.
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Bill, that's the snatch block fitting that should be on the bulwark in accordance with Part 12. I believe I had to glue it on straddling the aftermost hammock crane then drape the netting over it. The brace can then go through it and then to an ordinary deck cleat as in Longridge pg 268. The cleats to use are the aftermost ones shown in Part 10 "Fitting the Poop Deck etc.". It's a small miracle that Heller got the number of cleats and eyebolts (to tie blocks to) correct on each side, exactly in accordance with Longridge.
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Bill, the snatch blocks are part #67. Heller instructions show where they are placed in Part 12 "Fitting the Hammocks" (on my older instructions). You have to look very carefully to notice Part 67 at the end of bulwark under the hammock netting.
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Bill, she's looking very nice indeed but there is one more detail you could add, specifically the lizards supporting the main braces. See Longridge pg 251 and diagram pg 252.
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Nice work. Those are hefty-looking davits; these whalers seem to have been built like tanks for their three years away voyages.
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Love the locomotives. Are they the metal kits from from Occre? I was looking at some of them last time in the hobby shop and thinking they looked awesome, but they don't come cheap......
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Yes I did. They are very confusing to read about in words and I don't recall Longridge having a diagram. Here is Petersson's diagram instead. It's just a tackle hanging off the ends of the fore and main yards for use as cranes to lift heavy stuff. When not in use, the hooks are hooked onto the forward shroud and the tricing lines "trice it up" close in to the yard out of the way. Petersson doesn't show the tricing line belays. According to Hackney the tricing lines each pass through a small block attached to forward shrouds just beneath the futtock stave then lead down and are belayed at the bottom of the 2nd shroud. The yardarm tackle is belayed at the bottom of the first shroud. Not sure how he meant, exactly; I just tied them under the lower deadeyes. I see Longridge shows the tricing lines at the first deadeye. At the end of the day you could just omit them. I doubt they were rigged permanently.
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Kevin, are you aware of photogrammetry? Might be a quick way of getting Revell's hull lines into CAD.
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Just a note to reinforce in your mind that the cro'jack yard braces "cross" i.e. the port brace belays on the starboard side, and vice versa. (Longridge pg 258). No other braces cross in this fashion.
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I brought mine out to about as far as the gunport lid reaches, which is more or less the channel too. I should have mentioned that there was some debate on the Pete Coleman site about whether/when this bracket existed. It's not on the ship today; the block just attaches to a ringbolt in the side. I just decided to followed Longridge.
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Bill I believe I just bent a bit of brass wire to shape, with small bits of evergreen for the feet. Tried to take a pic just now through the case but it's hard to see behind the stunsail boom and the sheet block itself. Camera also seems to have had difficulty focusing through the case.
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Looking good! I must dive in and try one too..........
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Never heard of that story either. The Doolittle raid in reverse.....
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Bruce - Yes, I-400, that was it! Tamiya has a large model as here: https://www.ebay.com/p/1800179449
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Recently returned from a vacation in Hawaii. On our last day we flew to Honolulu and went to Pearl Harbour before flying home that night. In the fleet submarine museum next to USS Bowfin, there was a model of a large Japanese submarine which carried aircraft. I had never heard of this. Are there any models available, does anyone know?
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