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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Congratulations Bill! Very well done! No mean feat rigging a Heller Victory. And in record time too! Just one hurdle remaining in this steeplechase - the painting of the lanterns....😀
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The painted breeching rings look great! Don't worry, nobody will be able to tell on the finished model. There should be two glossy pages with photographs from the real ship between the pages you show in your photo. Evidently someone has torn them out. It's not unusual for old Longridge books to be missing some of the pen and ink drawings, but some photos??? 🤨 You could check your book for missing pages by looking for the Plans and Plates listed on pp x-xi. Here is the missing page at issue here; the text is helpful.
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Bill I meant the 3rd photo of post 1376, but this one will do. Your white driver sheet which runs between the upper block on the driver boom and the block on the traveller bar should not be wrapped around itself, it should belay on the cleat just forward of the bar.
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In the 3rd photo of your post, the running end of the sheet is wrapped around itself between the blocks; this is frapping, just like on the bowsprit gammoning. Just unwrap it and belay on the cleat instead, then throw on a coil. A quick fix. 🙂
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Bill, nice job on the coils; that's a tedious task. I wanted to have slack lower braces with a nice sag but I just could not get the thread to adopt the same (plus you then need to get the clewline to look taught, somehow). Tried smearing some glue on and rubbing it etc but no luck, so mine are taught. I noticed in one of your photos that the driver sheet is frapped around itself between the blocks; the running end should be belayed on the nearby cleat see pg 268.
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Bill, that's the snatch block fitting that should be on the bulwark in accordance with Part 12. I believe I had to glue it on straddling the aftermost hammock crane then drape the netting over it. The brace can then go through it and then to an ordinary deck cleat as in Longridge pg 268. The cleats to use are the aftermost ones shown in Part 10 "Fitting the Poop Deck etc.". It's a small miracle that Heller got the number of cleats and eyebolts (to tie blocks to) correct on each side, exactly in accordance with Longridge.
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Bill, the snatch blocks are part #67. Heller instructions show where they are placed in Part 12 "Fitting the Hammocks" (on my older instructions). You have to look very carefully to notice Part 67 at the end of bulwark under the hammock netting.
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Bill, she's looking very nice indeed but there is one more detail you could add, specifically the lizards supporting the main braces. See Longridge pg 251 and diagram pg 252.
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Love the locomotives. Are they the metal kits from from Occre? I was looking at some of them last time in the hobby shop and thinking they looked awesome, but they don't come cheap......
- 481 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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Yes I did. They are very confusing to read about in words and I don't recall Longridge having a diagram. Here is Petersson's diagram instead. It's just a tackle hanging off the ends of the fore and main yards for use as cranes to lift heavy stuff. When not in use, the hooks are hooked onto the forward shroud and the tricing lines "trice it up" close in to the yard out of the way. Petersson doesn't show the tricing line belays. According to Hackney the tricing lines each pass through a small block attached to forward shrouds just beneath the futtock stave then lead down and are belayed at the bottom of the 2nd shroud. The yardarm tackle is belayed at the bottom of the first shroud. Not sure how he meant, exactly; I just tied them under the lower deadeyes. I see Longridge shows the tricing lines at the first deadeye. At the end of the day you could just omit them. I doubt they were rigged permanently.
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Kevin, are you aware of photogrammetry? Might be a quick way of getting Revell's hull lines into CAD.
- 444 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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Just a note to reinforce in your mind that the cro'jack yard braces "cross" i.e. the port brace belays on the starboard side, and vice versa. (Longridge pg 258). No other braces cross in this fashion.
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I brought mine out to about as far as the gunport lid reaches, which is more or less the channel too. I should have mentioned that there was some debate on the Pete Coleman site about whether/when this bracket existed. It's not on the ship today; the block just attaches to a ringbolt in the side. I just decided to followed Longridge.
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Bill I believe I just bent a bit of brass wire to shape, with small bits of evergreen for the feet. Tried to take a pic just now through the case but it's hard to see behind the stunsail boom and the sheet block itself. Camera also seems to have had difficulty focusing through the case.
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Never heard of that story either. The Doolittle raid in reverse.....
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Bruce - Yes, I-400, that was it! Tamiya has a large model as here: https://www.ebay.com/p/1800179449
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Recently returned from a vacation in Hawaii. On our last day we flew to Honolulu and went to Pearl Harbour before flying home that night. In the fleet submarine museum next to USS Bowfin, there was a model of a large Japanese submarine which carried aircraft. I had never heard of this. Are there any models available, does anyone know?
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Bill, glad to hear that the sheets and tacks will work out. According to Longridge all yards except the cro'jack used "dog and bitch" thimbles see Fig 169 pg 238. The cro'jack yard is the only yard with brace pendants (pg 258). From Plan 7 they seem to be of a length which would reach from the yardarm to the outer stirrup of the cro'jack foot rope. keep up the good work. Nearly there! Looking forward to your SR too. 😃
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Hi Bill, I take it you are referring to such lines as the fore t'gallant sheets and clewlines, and others, belaying just above the lower deadeyes as mapped in Longridge Plan 10 and 11. Unfortunately, these belay on the inside (one would not want to have to climb out onto the channels to access them). Belaying is by means of shroud cleats attached on the inside of the shrouds, as depicted in Fig 142 on pg 214. These lines also pass through "trucks" lashed higher up the shroud; a truck is shown in Fig 141. These prevent the lines from tangling around each other when slack. I don't think these lines pass outside the mast top. In the case of the t'gallant clewlines, as described on pg 249 they lead from the block on the t'gallant yard to leading blocks attached to the after cross tree, then down from there (see the 7" topgallant clewline block depicted in Plan 9). Since these leading blocks are so close in to the mast, in my view the lines then pass through the lubber's hole, through a truck attached at the top of a shroud, then down to the shroud cleat. Similarly, the t'gallant sheets run from the topyard quarter block down through the lubber's hole to their shroud truck. On my model I omitted these trucks, which would be well nigh impossible at this scale, but I did make shroud cleats by attaching small etched brass cleats to small bits of evergreen on the back of which I filed a concave round to allow gluing more effectively to the shroud. I don't have a great shot of them, but here is one anyway. If you look across the ship on the starboard shrouds just to the right of the tip of the sheet anchor's stock, four shroud cleats can just be made out. It would have been less work to simply tie the lines on the inside of the shroud, but at the time I was carried away by the masterful work I saw on the old Pete Coleman Victory model web site. 😆😬 You can decide what lengths you want to go to for your model.
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Bill I replied o this topic in post #1298, however I see I just used the phrase "on the forecastle". By this Longridge just means to timberheads along the beakhead rail, above the roundhouses. They end up with 3 or 4 lines apiece 😬.
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Bill, all the topmen used the futtock shrouds. It's the fastest route to the topmast ratlines to get to the critical topsails. If someone had used the lubber's hole he'd have been shamed and maybe even punished for endangering the ship.
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