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Baker

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  1. Baker
    thanks Chris and Christian My way of construction is indeed not as seen in most buildlogs. And it takes a bit longer. The ultimate goal is to build a model as realistic as possible.
  2. Baker
    And thank you Zoltan. The book you advised me to buy will be very useful for the further construction of this model.
  3. Baker
    Thanks Michael, I'm glad to be in your memory files The combination of plywood frames and filler blocks indeed gives a solid hull I remember the problems I had with my Vasa planking where I only had frames and no experience in planking... It was then that I said. Grrr... planking a wooden hull Never again For me, on the lower part of the hull, it takes the same amount of time to place filler blocks instead of a first planking. And filler blocks are in my opinion better. Errors can easily be sanded. And you have a solid basis to bend the planks. Make plank in the right shape. Soak them well in water Clamp them onto the hull and allow to dry Remove them, ad glue on the plank, clamp them on the hull and let dry. Finish The planks are always bent correctly and no expensive tools are required. Thanks to everyone for following and likes Index on page 1
  4. Baker
    Planking the lower part of the hull (part one). First i have read the articles about planking. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I have tried to follow the rules for planking a model ship as much as possible. To everyone who helped with this articles, they were very helpful. Thank you very much !! Following the information found the planks were 4.2 to 5.2 meters long The average thickness is 7 cm The width varied between 36 and 48 cm The widest planks were located at the bottom of the hull Source : the Gresham ship project Planking in progress Ready for sanding A first sanding is done with sandpaper grain 60. Halfway in planking the lower part of the hull. In part 2 the other half Index on page 1
  5. Baker
    Welcome to MSW
  6. Baker
    It seems that the Dutch were ahead of the English in the early 17th century In 1604 an Englishman complained That an English merchantship of 100 tons needed a crew of 30 men. A Dutch merchantship of 100 tons needed only 10 men. Building and rigging a ship the Dutch way in the 17th century : Keep it simple but good. You need fewer people You make more profit. Source : Het schip (The ship) by Bjorn Landstrom. Ps, If you have an employer (the king of Sweden). Who wants Halfway the build a bigger ship with more cannons. Then this view is not correct. Then you get a badly built ship that sinks....
  7. Baker
    Thank you for your visit. My way of building a wooden model ship may not always be the usual method. That's because I've been busy with plastic model building all my life. The goal remains the same Try to build a model of a ship, tank, cannon or airplane as good as possible. Planking Goes slow but steady. This is the part of the building that I do not like to do. So it will take a while. Installing the power tools out doors does not take to long And the cleaning is very easy Blow all the dust away with my aircompressor haha
  8. Baker
    As always. Great job with the rigging. Great car My fastest drive. 200km / h (about 124 miles) in Germany on the autobahn with our Z4. Grrr. only 6 miles less haha
  9. Baker
    Hallo, I made wales and extra planks. Wales are 5mm wide and 3.5mm thick. These dimensions are slightly too large compared to shipwrecks . After several attempts for bending the wales. I gave up .. cold water, hot water, very hot water, steaming. Ramin 5mm at 3.5mm will simply not bend enough. So plan B. The front part of the wale at the bow is hand sawed from a solid piece of ramin. And is glued. The rest of the wale is then also be glued into place. The scarf joints between the loose pieces of the wale will be imitated. I don’t have the proper tools too make good scarf joints So, This method works more easily and will look pretty good once finished. Wale N ° 1is attached. The wales are painted black before glueing and sanded after . Now planking has started. The planks are first soaked in water. Are then clamped onto the model until they are dry. Then they are glued. Wale and plank info : The Gresham Ship project Index
  10. Baker
    Michael : thanks Cristian : Most of the info i found came from the internet and is printed as a pdf. and i have some books. Good and correct information about this period is sparse. Things too look for with google about shipbuilding in the late 16th century : "Red bay shipwreck" : the San Juan, a Spanish Galleon. "albaola.com" a modern shipyard that makes a replica of the San Juan. Gresham shipwreck" or "Princess channel shipwreck" "English shipbuilding 16th century" Some links on the internet : http://um.gipuzkoakultura.net/pdf/loewe.pdf http://www.albaola.com/en/site/building-process http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf http://www.patrimoniocultural.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf http://www.bricksite.com/uf/40000_49999/48372/7e570040536647340b5566f37c70ca11.pdf This is very interesting. "The Gresham ship project". I can not make a internetlink for this. But it can be found and saved on the pc or printed for free. The new lay out for the wales. There is a good chance this will be the final layout. Index
  11. Baker
    Thanks. This Apprentice has a good master. (The one that is now building a model of the Vasa) And with a little help from my friends on MSW !! Ps, What are, is "Kudos"
  12. Baker
    Thanks to the extra Images which I received from Cristian (Thanks). We can conclude that the bottom wale was located above the waterline. Actually, if we look closely at the picture of Mathew Baker. Then we can even determine where it was located on the hull. On the model The depth (waterline) is half of the width of the master frame. So 15cm 2 = 7.5cm. (I found this information somewhere in one of the studies of shipbuilding of this period. The depth should be approximately be the half of the width of the master frame.) The lowest point of the wale on the model is calculated and is at 7.6cm. 0.1 cm above the waterline on the model. After making more planks and wales start I will start planking the hull. Maybe this weekend. if my free time allows it
  13. Baker
    Nice work I would also not feel myself "at ease" at the seats of ease.
  14. Baker
    Hallo, The next step is the planking of the hull. Before I start with this, I have a question. Should the lowest wale lie above the waterline. Or may he lie on the waterline or below the waterline. I have no idea whether there are Rules for this. The height of the water line is half of the width of the largest frame 15 centimeter : 2 = 7.5 centimeter (See post with explanation about the possible size of the ship) The waterline stays where it is now ( at 7.5cm) Only the height of the wale can be changed There has been made a trial set-up. 2 wales below the gun ports 1 wale above the gun ports Like on drawings of ships from that era. 2 wales below the gun ports 1 wale above the gun ports And a shipwreck index
  15. Baker
    G.L. For the gun deck simple softwood. Easily processed and will be almost not visible on the finished model. For all of the visible decks and planks of the hull. Ramin wood. These are remnants of when we built our house 25 years ago. I dont know the correct English word. But they are "plinten" (plinths,)( The finish plank between the wood floor and the wall) The ramin currently being sold is very soft and does not look at what was sold 25 years ago. I do not think the real ramin is still available. For the upper frames and other parts : cherry wood. From a cherry tree that is cut down two years ago.
  16. Baker
    Planking the lower part of the transom As can be seen, the planks are not equal in width. The side edges of Planks are blackened And the lower planks are bent around the corner. This was done for more strength at this part of the hull This lower space has now been left open. I will try to make these planks when the hull is planked. Additional details are for later when the hull is planked as always thanks for watching, comments and likes Index
  17. Baker
    "frames" on he transom When I started the construction of this model. Replicas of 16th century ships, built or under construction, were first used as an example to determine the thickness of the keel and stempost. For some reason the keels and stempost on these ships are always very wide. A Golden Hind in the 70ths A Mayflower in progres In contrast to the keel and stempost found at shipwrecks. Gresham ship Therefore, stem, stern and keel are first made thinner 1 mm on both sides. This gives a better view. After planking of the hull they will be further sanded into their final shape. Beams are placed to attach the planking on the transom As well as 2 standing knees and 2 lodging knees. An example is the transom of a 16th century Spanish galleon. Found in Red Bay. Maybe not entirely correct. But perhaps the only transom from this time that survived Index
  18. Baker
    I'm out of wood now. So, first saw timber for planks and beams. Of cherry wood pieces are made for the upper frames and beams. Of the( real) ramin planks are sawn. Cleaning A first "batch" is ready. And, (Has nothing to do with ships. But nature is beautiful ) My bee hotel, made last year and see post N° 6, welcomes its first guests. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insect_hotel Index
  19. Baker
    Hallo, Frames (futtocks) and gunports . The aim is to have a better detailing of the gun deck when looking through the gunports. If needed, there may be applied more detail later It seems that this time periode the inside of the frames were not fully planked. Frames (futtocks) are finely finished only where they have to fit together. The other sides are rough sawn or cut out with an ax. But on a finished model this seems sloppy. Therefore, my futtocks are sawn and sanded And, It is quite possible that the frames were farther spaced. Or not. Maybe the gun ports were smaller or larger on some ships. And maybe some ships were planked inside. Who knows. All of this will be barely visible when the upperdecks are placed More information is available via this link. http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf First it is determined where the frames and gun ports should be Then between the plywood frames solid pieces wood are glued. Softwood “ramin” was used here. Saws and sands easily. There is a remarkable difference in the Ramin pieces that are on my attic for 25 years (very hard) And "ramin" which I bought last year in the wood shop (very soft). The frames are then equal sanded. The plywood frame is removed and replaced with a solid piece of wood and sanded. Work in progress A piece of the bow is removed. In a later stage, an adjusted piece will be placed back This should be higher. Otherwise, I'm not at the same height with my deck. The seam will be covered by the planking of the hull. Finish. My "employee" just had to celebrate this. From the partsbox he made this gun. He don’t understands that the wheels of a British crusader tank really do not belong under a medieval cannon. Installing the cannon . Fire. Test succeeded. Everyone happy . LOL Index
  20. Baker
    I'm glad I could help. Another BB Vasa without the pinoles
  21. Baker
    I hope I'm not too late with this picture. On the original ship in the museum, there are no holes. And this seems to be an original piece of the ship.
  22. Baker
    Thanks for the positive comments. Have you used this approach before? Scott, No. This was my very first lantern on my first ship. It is made in plastic because I have most experience with this material from my military modeling But I remember this advice when I make a lantern for my Golden Hind.
  23. Baker
    Michael, I did fair the bulkheads before installing the filler blocks. Since I did not have good drawings. I had to draw my own bulckheads (frames) These filler blocks have saved my model. For me it is like the first planking on the hull. But with more space for sanding away any errors
  24. Baker
    If I understand it correctly (i hope), the question is about filler blocks. This way I made my blocks. Be careful with the grinder. Sanding goes quickly.
  25. Baker
    Thanks for the positive comments and likes. In English and Flemish. Just seen on the picture On the stern there is still an error of a few mm. Building a hull without proper drawings and with my limited experience is not easy But, sometime we will get it to the finish with this model (in a few years....) index

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