reklein

Hi again 
 
Finish the transom and put 2 more 5/32 planks for the wales but not the 2 ones , it will be dunn later
I also define the lines for the treenails  (74 lines) +
There will be 2 nails in ech plank yust for the fun of it😲 (prototype has one)
1480 + nails on 1 side 
I also took a photo of  a test using round headed metal nais  and reduce it to fitt the scale  (about)
this is fore the wales 
 
 
Svein.erik 

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Nice work, I'm really jealous. Makes me wanna break your fingers.  Its a joke my friend.

Thanks lads .
 
The forward funnel finished with all the pipework :

 
The Aft Funnel has turned out a bit better than the forward one - nothing like a bit of practise to make improvements . I made a few small mistakes with the other one, which I've avoided with this one. Most noteworthy was the fit of the top flange - with this one I notched out for the PE guard :

 
The internal railings also came out a bit better on this one :

 
I also had the main seam on the wrong end with the first one. Luckily I did a reasonably good job of fitting it, so it won't be a major concern. Here's the completed aft funnel :


 
Danny

Once again I'd like to thank my followers for their kind comments .
 
There is a fair bit of work to do inside the Funnels - Walkways and Railings from PE. In the pic below I've painted half of them matt black, as they are a bit more visible in primer :

 
All painted :

 
The funnel guard(?) is a bit flimsy before it's fixed in place. I used the back of a foam sanding pad to shape it with a toothpick :


 
The guard (still in primer) CA glued in place :

 
An angled rim covers the ends of the guard :


 
The Forward Funnel is nearing completion. I've been simplifying the way I use the laser-cut framing - with experience I've nearly stopped adding extra card to them. Here the funnel is being skinned :

 
And attached to the base I made earlier :

 
Danny

Thank you all .
 
The Control Top is now fitted to the rest of the Bridge. I'll leave the whole assembly off the deck for now in case there are other things to fit to the deck first :


 
Now I've moved on to the next assembly - the forward funnel. I've made the base for it, but before I continue there are 5 Rubber Boats to make. These mount on the base.
 
Here are a sequence of pics showing them being assembled in a jig. I made this to hold the boats while gluing up the sides, as they are very "slippery customers" to hang onto. First pic is of the parts for 4 boats in various stages of preparation :

 
The Holding Jig, made from card :

 
The jig in use :



 
The boats fitted to the base :

 
Danny

Thanks for all the kind comments guys and gal - they are always appreciated .
 
Moving upward, another platform with 6 binoculars among other things :





 
Next came the Foremast. To roll the legs I used a piece of brass tubing lined with thin card to give the right diameter :

 
A #16 drill was the perfect size for the inner diameter. I glued the seam a little at a time, moving the mast in and out to prevent any excess glue from sticking to the card liner :

 
The three legs glued together :

 
The mast fitted to the bridge, along with railings and ladders :





 
The Fore Control Top sits above the bridge. Cutting the flimsy base for it took some care :


 
PE Radars came with the aftermarket stuff. Here they are ready for paint :




 
Radars fixed to the top :

 
Railings and antennae fitted, and the top permanently fitted to the bridge :


 
Danny

Thanks Mark and Piet, and also to all of the likes.
 
Well, I finally got to spend some time in the model workshop today, after eight months of 1:1 scale work. In the end, it took me only a couple of hours each day over the weekend to complete the fuselage. Two side-bars were cut to size and fitted with various pulleys and cable guides before fitting. The only tricky part here was finding a way to clamp them while the glue set. Then a couple of split pins were shaped into a horseshoe shape with a piece of bamboo across the open ends to form handles. A piece of cordage was then connected from these to the crankshaft. 
 
Here are a couple of pictures of progress to date.
 

 

 
After taking the pictures, I realised that the cordage had come away from the pulleys on the neck ring – it should pass around these as well as going through the cable guides.  And that completes the construction of the fuselage. Wings are up next.

Next up was a storage and charging station for some of my cordless tools. Another Brad Rodriguez design.
 

 
Then it was back to the workbench. I decided I really needed some built-in storage under my main workbench. So I made an “original” design to fit four drawers and a cupboard. It was really hard to get in place to take a photo, but you’ll get the idea….
 

 
The drawer/cupboard unit has a space above it for storing my sharpening stones, shooting board, and bench hook.
 
The drawers house some of my hand tools: chisels, gouges, auger bits, and planes.
 

 
A recent addition to the workshop has been a small thickness planer, so of course it needed its own cabinet, so I made a repeat of the Drill Press cabinet for it:
 

 
I needed somewhere to store an amazingly large collection of screws and other fasteners. I found some neat storage trays in the hardware store and made up some plywood housing for them, mounted again on the French Cleat system. And I needed somewhere for a growing collection of smaller clamps as well. 
 

 
 
 
Back in February, I attended a three-day workshop learning how to make Bandsaw Boxes.
 
Here is a couple of photos of my first two boxes, made from Australian Red Cedar and completed during those three days:
 

 

 
And here is my third, unfinished box, made from Huon Pine:
 

 
It is ready for the drawer faces to be carved with finger-pulls.
 
And finally, completed today, was this 3-d design end-grain cutting board for the kitchen. Design is by a Russian woodworker, whose website is MTMWood.com He does some amazing work and I purchased a copy of his plans/instructions for this. The finished board is about 530mm x 330mm x 50mm thick. Timbers used were Jarrah, Walnut and Rock Maple.  The “client” is happy with the result…
 

 
So, as you can see, while I may not have been building models, I have not been idle over the last eight months or so....
 
Now, back to modelling.........I hope..........
 

It’s been quite a while since I updated this log, so I thought I’d show you what has kept me out of the model shipyard for all of this time…
 
It all started with a desire to sort out the storage arrangements in the “dirty” workshop – ie the garage, which has to do double duty as both workshop and home for two cars. Then a visit to the Timber and Working with Wood Show resulted in funding approval for a new table saw to assist with the modifications while retaining all 10 digits.  Because of the need to retain the primary function of the garage (ie housing for cars), all cabinetry was made mobile so that the workshop could be configured “as required” for whatever the task at hand demanded.
 
The first cab off the rank was storage for my ever-growing collection of “hobby” machinery. For this I made a 1.5m long cabinet that would house the Sherline Mill and Lathe on top. The design was from Brad Rodriguez at Fix-This-Build-That. Taking pictures now is a little awkward, but here is the overall cabinet with the Sherline Machines under their dust covers on top.
 

 
 
In use, they can be either kept in place, or moved to another work surface:
 

 
Inside the cabinet are two doors concealing two full-extension pull-out trays that house yet more machinery, and four drawers for all of the lathe and mill accessories, air-brush equipment, etc.
 

 
 
The next thing I decided to make was an assembly table that would double as an outfeed table for the table saw. For this, I combined the plans/ideas from three different woodworkers. The top is a torsion box design by Ron Paulk in the USA. The frame is a design by Paul Sellers (UK), which is knock down design, and I added to that by putting 3” castors on the legs. Then I used an idea from Dave Stanton (Australia) to make the top similar to the Festool MFT table (only larger).
 

 
The top is made from ¾” plywood. It’s about 1.5m long by about 900m wide. The cut-outs around the side panels serve to both reduce weight and provide handy temporary storage for tools as you go. The dog holes are laid out using the UJK Parf Guide system, which guarantees alignment and spacing. I also added T-Track around 3 edges. The top is sturdy, and although it is fairly heavy, I can lift it on and off the frame by myself with relative ease.
 
Here is a view of the table top removed for storage. You can see the basic construction of the frame, and the locating slots for seating the table top securely. The aprons of the table are held together by half-lap joints and held securely by crucifix joints in the tops of the legs. Two stretcher/bearers are housed in dovetail joints to complete the frame.
 

 
Here is a close-up of the crucifix joint on one leg during disassembly.
 

 
Once completely disassembled, all of the frame components sit neatly on the extension wing of the table saw. The whole thing goes together in about one minute flat. Same for disassembly.
 

 
 
Next up were a mobile timber storage cart and some mobile bases for both Drill Press and Spindle Sander. While I was at it, I made a table for the Drill Press. It’s a bit hard to tell in this photo, but yes, that is a timber storage cart full of, well, timber…..
 

 
The Drill Press cabinet and the Spindle Sander cabinet are essentially identical, except that one has four drawers ,while the other has one drawer and a cupboard. The designs were based on more from Brad Rodriguez at Fix-This-Build-That.
 

 
Next up, I really wanted some storage for finishes and other “stuff”. I based this on a design from Jay Bates. After I made it, I realised I needed a second one…..
 

 
Also in the above photo you can see my large clamp rack (another Brad Rodriguez design) and a small storage rack for my Random Orbital Sander and various sand papers to go with it (also designed by Brad Rodriguez). All of the wall-mounted cabinets are mounted using a French Cleat system. This makes it really easy to move things around if you change your mind about placement of items as the cabinets are not fixed to the wall.
 
More in the next post…..
 
 

Grant,
It  looks great so far, very interesting build you always attack with such great "elan". One question the last pics are they flying machine or better mouse trap?

Wow!!! Lots of replies in a very short period of time. It seems like CA has lots of fans and detractors.
I often use it but obviously need to be very careful. I've used the cut off sewing needle approach for years and it works well. After the needles get gunked up with glue I use a small candle and burn off the glue. After I've used the glue I tap the bottle against my bench and this usually keeps the bottle open. If not I use T-pins
to open the nozzle. Years ago I purchased small red plastic cups (about 1/4" x 1/4") from one of the woodworking suppliers. They were great. I put the ca in the cup and dunked the needle into the cup to load the ca. I've gone online but can't finds these cups anywhere. I have about fifty cups left and keep them locked in a safe.

Sandor, the key is to first anneal the strip by heating it to just starting to change color and then quenching in water; this will soften the brass. Then with small duckbill pliers straddling a rod slowly form the strip while pushing down and squeezing at the same time.
There is a picture on page 9 of my Constitution build of this.  Hope this helps.

Since you live in the US, why bother to change to metric. At 1:96 scale, 1/8in represents 1ft.  6in is half of a ft or 1/16 in at scale.  1/16 in basswood sheet stock should be readily available at most hobby outlets to be ripped into planks.
 
What about the extra inch? Planking is 7in, not 6in.  1in at scale is 1/96in, about the thickness of a sheet of paper.  I personally would not worry about this small difference in order to be able to use readily available commercially available sheet stock.
 
For general measuring, I agree with druxey, buy an inexpensive architect’s scale.  The triangular type available at office supply stores will include a 1/8 inch (1:96) scale.
 
Roger
 
 

The kit had a lovely cast wheel which I thought not good enough, so now it has one of chucks 24 mm boxwood wheels as the "piece de resistance" 

I've had a couple of weeks off from Sirius and the cutter over Christmas under orders from her who must be obeyed, she suggested I made something for her mother as she is more into the boats that I'm making than the wife, in fact she has my old cutty Sark on her mantelpiece, I found on eBay a constructo kit for a Thames steam barge, the model had already been started and all the frames etc were missing but for £10 I thought what the hell
As we live in Cookham which some of you may know (Druxey does) we are on the side of the Thames so I thought this wold be perfect for her, it arrived the day before Xmas eve, I cut my own bulkheads from the sheets still in the box and laid the first plank at 12.15 on Xmas eve
This is the finished job today and I'm giving it to her tomorrow as a belated Xmas present.

Mike,
 
Very nice--great noted comments. I will be using pear wood for the first time. Lovely color - much to like with this wood.
 
PS: I was in your neighborhood a few weeks ago - ride back many hours of just white. Wonderful indeed.
 
Regards,
 

 
 
 

Ok, I guess I am going to go backwards. These are pictures of the ship taken in January 2018, before we started working on the standing rigging together. 

Patience and slowly, but progress is being made.

I will paint the brass before putting in place permanently.

nice work on the dead eyes and straps