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I have been wondering what type of superglue is everybody uses around here. Our use the mostly for securing knots so that they don’t come undone done.  I have tried using diluted white glue to secure the knot  but I have had some knots Unwrap when that was used.

 My problem is it repeatedly opening and closing the CA glue the Gets gummed up and after a while I have a hard time closing It.  I purchased a couple small tubes of CA glue and put them in the very small dropper bottle so that I could unscrew the top and use my needle applicator to put a drop of glue on my knots.This worked fine for a while until my glue started to get very syrupy. I’d like to be able to apply very small amounts at a time and not have to constantly be buying new containers of glue because the old ones just get too difficult to open the container. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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I'd suggest putting a small puddle of your superglue on an old plastic lid or piece of a plastic bag and then applying with a sewing needle with the eye end clipped off to make a concave , tiny applicator. Keeps you from repeatedly opening and closing the cap of your glue bottle. The syrupy glue means it's turning, so get a card of two or three of those little tubes. When one goes bad, open a fresh tube.

 

I've read here that the superglue turns brittle over time and that could be bad for rigging. Also it will leave a shiny spot on the rope.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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I am no expert but I would think that you would want to tie first, and glue second, unless you are using a slow setting glue which CA is not in most cases. If you are trying to tie a stiff line then it will be much harder to get a tight knot.

 

Also, even though I am not sure about where you are, I buy tips that have small tubes that slip over the tip of the bottles I buy and when they become clogged just throw them away.

 

Someone else on the forum stated that they soak their tips in acetone or something like that to keep them clean and clear. Not sure where that post is or if Acetone was the solution used. 

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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24 minutes ago, lmagna said:

I am no expert but I would think that you would want to tie first, and glue second, unless you are using a slow setting glue which CA is not in most cases. If you are trying to tie a stiff line then it will be much harder to get a tight knot.

 

Also, even though I am not sure about where you are, I buy tips that have small tubes that slip over the tip of the bottles I buy and when they become clogged just throw them away.

 

Someone else on the forum stated that they soak their tips in acetone or something like that to keep them clean and clear. Not sure where that post is or if Acetone was the solution used. 

 For a while there I was removing the tips off of the tubes and soaking them in nail polish remover. That deer remove the crusty glue that was on them however they plugged up really fast after I did that.

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I'm of the "no CA on rigging" camp as there's been too much about it destroying the rigging.  I use white (not the yellow stuff) glue thinned about 50-50 with water.  I coat the knot and let the glue soak in. If I even suspect the knot isn't secure, I add a second coating.  So far, so good.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

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Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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1 hour ago, Antonio Vasquez said:

however they plugged up really fast after I did that.

You might try rinsing then out with alcohol or even water and making sure they are dry before using them again. I don't really know as I have never done this method before. I mostly just use a needle stuck in the tip to keep the tip open and don't even use the cap after a while. I only buy the small bottles and only buy from my local hobby store as they have a higher turnover and the glue seems to be fresher than when you buy it on line or at hardware stores. Seems to help if you keep it in the refrigerator as well.

 

Still can't really vouch for use on rigging but Mark is MUCH more experienced than I am so might be the better voice to follow on that part. 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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I should add, I'm no a needles kind of guy as once dropped, they hit the carpet and so my feet and the dog's feet are at risk.   I use a small paint brush for glue/water mixture and a pointed (sharpened) toothpick for all other glues.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Every time I try to use super glue for anything it turns into a disaster. I try to avoid the stuff all together. I'm learning there's no substitute for good fitting parts and. For knots diluted white glue works great.

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

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I'd store the CA in a tightly sealed jar with some silica gel packets in the bottom. Humidity/moisture is the bane of CA. It's a part of the accelerator sprays used to speed up the setting process.

 

I'd use the pin in a bigger wood handle. Less likely to get stuck if the pointy end is embedded in a handle. The other end shouldn't pose much of a threat to your paws.

 

Acetone is the organic chemical used to remove CA and fingernail polish. That's hint for a source if you do stick things together incorrectly; see the Admiral for her help. I've never had much luck keeping the nozzles clean with those dispensers. I like the drop at a time applicator; you can also use a little capillary action to get the this stuff to spread on a seam.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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26 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

so my feet and the dog's feet are at risk

I have so much finesse and coordination that ANYTHING sharp in my vicinity is not only a risk but probably an outright danger to anyone in the area.

 

8 minutes ago, Canute said:

I'd use the pin in a bigger wood handle.

I use a stretched out safety pin. If it gets stuck I just yank it out with a pair of needle nose pliers and ram it in and out a few times until it is completely free. There seems to be no really good answers for the stuff, as what seems to work when you are using it daily for some parts of a build are a complete failure when you are almost never using it on another area/time of the build.

 

It has always seemed to me that for many modelers CA is a kind of Love/Hate relationship at the best of times.  

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Lou, you work in a suit of armor? ;) Be careful there. This stuff is supposed to be relaxing and fun. No races here, mate.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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I also only use diluted wood glue on rigging. CA glue fumes are also very toxic. Cause flu like symptoms. I only use CA when fixing copper plates. I put puddle on the bottom of an upturned glass jar and use a glue applicator (like a metal hook that holds a drop of CA) purchased from a hobby shop. I only use CA while working outside on a verandah in the open air.  

Hornet

 

Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. 

 

Completed Ship Builds:

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                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

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                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

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                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

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                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

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My 2 bits worth.

Nothing beats tying the knots properly.

A dab of CA to stiffen the rope end or keep in place.

I used to use these 2 types below - here in Aussie..

However they clogged up as the glue stays in the nozzle.

The UHU (superstrong super fast ?) seemed to not dry as quick as the QuickFix did.

IMG_2938.thumb.JPG.16ea5857020fc87832fed242a31d075a.JPG

 

HOWEVER

Then found this Selleys QuickFIX dispenser.

It controls the amount of CA glue coming out by the "black" squeeze handles on the sides.

When you let go of the handles, the glue "sucks" back up the nozzle a bit. The instructions say to "tap" the bottle down on it's base to help the glue go back inside. I use the pointy end of a long pin to dab a small amount onto the spot.

It works. But the best I find is to wipe the nozzle end, every time I use it. I get full use out of the bottle and nozzle this way,  

CA_Glue.thumb.JPG.91dbaa5970a24dfd3d7a6213c65d15df.JPG

If too much is on the spot/rope, I wipe the excess quickly with tissue or tip of finger so I don't get a "shinny" finish.

 

But, I agree with MTaylor, 50/50 white PVA/Water mix over the rope, soaks in to seal the lot.

 

 

 

Dave R

Measure twice, cut once.

 

Current Build: HMB Endeavour 1768

(In the shipyard being constructed)

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37 minutes ago, Canute said:

Lou, you work in a suit of armor?

Ken

Not quite, just chainmail, :D

 

Haven't done too much damage lately, even though I have done some doozies in the past and have the scars and pictures to prove it. I was MUCH worse in my knife making days. Not in any great hurry and I do have fun most of the time. I think it may be a subconscious need to appease the hobby Gods with a little blood now and then.  

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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Dave

I LOVE that dispenser! Only seems like it is available in Australia though. I do the same thing with the bottles I buy but this seems kike it would work so much easier. 

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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31 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Not in any great hurry and I do have fun most of the time. I think it may be a subconscious need to appease the hobby Gods with a little blood now and then.  

Ah yes, the Hobby Gods DO need appeasing now and then.  i just wish they'd back off and say they had their fill of me but I guess it's possible that my blood is particularly tasty OR I need a lot to make a lot of sacrifices to atone for my hobby sins.  

Edited by mtaylor

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I try to void CA glue. Don't like using it at all except in an extreme emergency. I only really use it for attaching PE parts.

Apart from going brittle over time it also heats up as it cures which has the potential to snap the rigging cord if it is too tight.

I find that Very thin plastic cement works best for knots. The Tamiya one with the brush in the lid works best for me.

Paul

In work

Amati-rms-titanic-1912-1250

Unfinished kit

Revell Container-ship-colombo-express

Finished

AL -  King of the Mississippi

AL-Sanson

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1 hour ago, lmagna said:

Dave

I LOVE that dispenser! Only seems like it is available in Australia though. I do the same thing with the bottles I buy but this seems kike it would work so much easier. 

They have those dispensers here too. Loctite has their CA in them. I tried it but did not get much use out of the bottle.

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Wow!!! Lots of replies in a very short period of time. It seems like CA has lots of fans and detractors.

I often use it but obviously need to be very careful. I've used the cut off sewing needle approach for years and it works well. After the needles get gunked up with glue I use a small candle and burn off the glue. After I've used the glue I tap the bottle against my bench and this usually keeps the bottle open. If not I use T-pins

to open the nozzle. Years ago I purchased small red plastic cups (about 1/4" x 1/4") from one of the woodworking suppliers. They were great. I put the ca in the cup and dunked the needle into the cup to load the ca. I've gone online but can't finds these cups anywhere. I have about fifty cups left and keep them locked in a safe.

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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Use the medium variety of Bob Smith CA with a #3 medical needle for pretty much everything. Thanks to this forum and Ken335 for the needle idea and type. Had to order the large needles from the UK as the type they sell in Canada are not compatible with the CA nozzle. The large needle looks a bit scary but I'm so use to it now would not think of not using it. This gives great application control. If it gets clogged, a quick bit of flame from a lighter cleans it off. One needle can last for a long while. 5b0218c5696fe_IMG_08941.thumb.JPG.3b8b1dd0730fe46a417b7cbd0d8dd70a.JPGentirely. Also have smaller "needles" specifically designed for glue application that come in various needle dia. but find the larger medical style better.   

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 One of the reasons why The CA glue was a little difficult to work with was when I used my needle to apply it it would dry between the prongs of my needle. I would have to use a razor or my wire wheel on my grinder to clean up the needle.  It never occurred to me to burn it off. I really love this place. A lot of the ideas I get here make my life a whole lot easier .

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I think if I wanted to get needles all I would need to do would be go to some of the hangouts around town and pick up after the street people. They are constantly showing pictures on the news where people are cleaning up parks in the area and coming up with buckets of needles!

 

I may look into it though it looks like it may offer another alternative to glue out of the bottle.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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When I retied the ratlines on Victory twice All of them twice I consider my self an expert on this one thing, (still learning on everything else)

No CA on knots it does turn shiny gets brittle and cannot untie or redo if you have a boo boo.

 

Like Mark said 50/50 white glue. can be removed and reapplied if you made a mistake and no shine.

 

I by tons of toothpicks can sharpen to a needle point. Throw away. Environmentally safe, no pain from stepping on a needle that went halfway thru your big toe. Easy to find if you drop one so Papas little helpers wont have to go to the vet to have a pin, or needle removed from mouth or throat  ;)

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Hmm, there's quite a wide range of opinions & suggestions.  Here's mine.

 

When applying any glue to a small piece, I place a drop on a 3x5 notecard and apply it with a disposable plastic toothpick that has both a pointed end and a feather end.  The texture of the pointed end can hold sufficient glue, and the feathered end can spread it around if needed.  A small gauge needle also works well.  

 

For securing knots, I think either CA or diluted white glue works ok.  For diluting white PVC (Elmers) glue, I think you'll find that 50% dilution is probably far too much- I'd make up a series of dilutions by adding water at 10%, 20%, & 30% then test on scrap for both securing knots and stiffening. 

 

A few other things- keeping CA glue tightly capped and in the freezer will prolong shelf life.

 

One other glue that hasn't been mentioned above, is UV-cured adhesive.  There are many formulations, but the common ones are crystal clear and will remain wet until exposed to sunlight or a UV- light source, and some can be cured by heat as well.     Here's one:

 

http://www.orvis.com/p/bug-bond/1Y59?item_code=1Y590400&adv=127748&cm_mmc=plas-_-FlyFishing-_-1Y59-_-127748&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIheCE3dyW2wIVgcDACh1-1AeDEAQYBCABEgKQLfD_BwE

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Yup. Those look like the little red cups I have in my safe. Thank you, thank you!!!!!! Moab

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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Yup. Those look like the little red cups I have in my safe. Thank you, thank you!!!!!! Moab

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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I have used the UV cure glue for my kids plastic glasses frame. They broke on the frame that goes around the lens It only took a small amount making for an almost invisible repair and held fine for the rest of the year until he got new glasses. It is the ONLY kind of glue that I have found that works on that kind of plastic for some reason. Kind of expensive but in most cases you use very little at a time.   

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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