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Posts posted by RGL
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Cut a tiny length of card that you can lay on the deck. It will give you a backdrop and help you see the hole that you have to put the rigging through.
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Portholes were done ages ago. The 30 torpedo booms require a 0.5mm hole, each boom requires two 0.3mm holes for rigging.
The hull also requires multiple rings for rigging blocks.
Next is the holes for the stanchions.
- cog, lmagna, popeye the sailor and 3 others
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The primer coats are fairly thick (multiple oversprays. As you know, there is a lot of brass to go on the hull so I was never going to add it first otherwise the detail would go.
The scribing of the panels gives me a guide a guide when I paint (modulation panels) that I can use for chipping on the edges etc.
that way my mistakes on this build wont have to be yours.
The armour panels are very stark close up as the ship was ship was in Dock after Dogger Bank where it was absolutely pounded which would have moved them and burnt off paint
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- Dubz, popeye the sailor, Canute and 7 others
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- Jack12477, lmagna, Old Collingwood and 5 others
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So, using the template from the instructions, I’ve drilled the holes for the torpedo net booms.
2 things, the scale in the instructions are out. Regardless you’ll have to use them as the torpedo nets will be the same scale.
The port side side template is also different to the kits placement of the hull cannons and alignment.
Finally, the rubbish carbide .3mm drill bits will not cut into plastic as apparently they are for cleaning printer nozzles. I need to find a decent source.
- popeye the sailor, cog, lmagna and 3 others
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Found it, I’m sure Mr K does not mind. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=163104&hilit=Yamato
- mtaylor, popeye the sailor, Canute and 2 others
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I hyperlinked his build on that site on my Yamato build. There is a fair bit of how to.
- Canute, Old Collingwood, lmagna and 5 others
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You will pretty much lose all PE detail unless you airbrush your top coats. Especially when you modulate your colours. There are some excellent tutorials on U-Tube by AK interactive or look at @Koppalakki masterpiece build on shipmodelworld world for his Yamato. I learnt so much from him on that build.
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Well done mate, once you’ve done individual stanchions you’ll never go back as it looks so much better.
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It’s a matter of understanding how they work first, then how to rig for it. There are lines running everywhere alongside the hull.
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Canute shows just how much detail there is, so additionally I’ll do individual stanchions, (the Tamiya metal set will be fine as it’s got two railings, there is a ship’s bell on the forward funnel, and lots of little bits and pieces that be used to enhance it. A lot from spares but it needs a large amount of rigging blocks.
I photocopied the drilling template so when I stuff it up or pour something on it I have an emergency.
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Geeze I wish. I’ve got a lot on this month. I’ve got to put the ringols on first anyways. There is a lot of extra detail to put on this one even with the aftermarket.
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- Osmosis, Old Collingwood, ccoyle and 8 others
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You won’t be able to help yourself
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I’m thinking your big M will never be finished. I’m planning on 6 months for Seydlitz, should take me into our winter and rugby season.
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- lmagna, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 3 others
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It’s a nice little kit that, I’m thinking of a torpedo boat after our next build.
- mtaylor, Jack12477, Old Collingwood and 2 others
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SMS Seydlitz by Canute, Cog, Stein Gildberg & RGL - FINISHED - Hobbyboss - 1/350 - PLASTIC
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted · Edited by RGL
Not really, my HMB endeavour had about 5000 treenails, but I could drill the wood with a Demel, this is with a Pin Vise.
I left the curly wurlies as you call them Cog so I could see where I was up to as I was watching a German TV series at the time and unlike you I have to read the subtitles