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Everything posted by bruce d
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Welcome to MSW from the UK, I look forward to seeing your work. Regards, Bruce
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Hello Kevin, I'm glad you asked and will start things off. I have the Foredom SR with flexishaft and 6mm key-type chuck. It is one of the standard entry-level packages with foot control. I thought I would wait to see which other end-pieces were right for me and so far I don't think I will be ordering any more. The 6mm chuck is good even with .8mm drill bits. I keep the chuck key in a spring clip beside the work space and (so far) have not suffered for lack of quick-release handpiece. Perhaps if I ever get into some serious detail carving with a need to constantly change burrs that will change but not yet. One thing I now know for certain is that, at least for me, the foot controller is a must. It gives me an extra hand to wrangle those fiddly little bits. BTW, the business end of the standard SR handpiece has parallel sides and works well in a clamp. I am not sure this is the case with the QR handpiece. I made a clamp-on worktable from wood scraps in about half an hour that works fine and gives me a small work surface for offering pieces up to the drum/burr/router bit. I had something similar for my Dremel but the foot speed control and high speed of the Foredom makes this the better tool for that job. EDIT: Forgot to say that one lesson learned was that the tool is not hanging where I originally imagined. It is also hanging quite successfully on an improvised bit of stiff electrical cable that lets me make adjustments when I am leaning over the workbench or the Foredom is clamped in place. Not sure how that will work with one of the purpose made hangers. The limiting factor can be the distance from the tool to the foot controller. HTH, will be watching for the input from others with their own tweaks. Bruce
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Yes, I remember that. Good story.
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The IJN had some a/c carrying subs at the outbreak such as I-15, I-16 etc and then developed the mamoth I-400 class later. I think it was I-15 that successfully attacked the US west coast. Both classes are available as kits, sorry I'm not up to date but there are 1/700 waterline kits, also I know Nichimo did them in 1/200 scale years ago. HTH Bruce
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Caution! Thread drift strikes again! George, you have rattled my cage. Ouch. I have a piece of old Bermudian cedar which is not pink at all: now I wonder if it really is 'old Bermudian Cedar'. Can you just confirm that you are saying the deck of the model in your picture is old Bermudian Cedar, i.e. pre-1950 cutting, not a more recent harvest? BTW, that model looks nice.
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Chris, I can’t offer a definitive answer to what orders were given, and when, but there are a few anecdotes in the ADM (Admiralty) records in The National Archives UK to keep the subject lively: 7 February, 1772 - Commissioner Frederick Rogers, Plymouth advises their Lordships at the Admiralty that they should ‘… inform what price is allowed the contractor for painting the names and ornamenting the compartments in ships' sterns.’ ADM 106/1216/96 - 11 February, 1772 – The Plymouth Officers advise their Lords at the Admiralty that ‘the contractor for painter's work here has not been paid for painting the ships names and compartments in their sterns and opine he deserves 6s. (6 shillings) for each ship’ ADM 106/1215/31 - 26 October, 1772 - The Plymouth Officers ordered Thomas Winsloe of Tiverton to write the names of several ships on the stern. They requested from the Admiralty for him to be paid at the rate of 6 shillings for each ship, the price they thought it is worth. ADM 106/1217/208 - 21 July 1773 - Portsmouth Officers report that they have asked ‘… Phillip Avery, the Painter ... the reason the name of the Albion was not written on her stern, when she was last painted at Spithead. They inform us that on their application to the Captain (rear-admiral Hon. Samuel Barrington) for doing it, he told them it was unnecessary as the name was carved and supported by the claws of the Lyon in her Head.’ ADM 106/1220/266 - And then 18 April 1778, Commissioner Proby of Chatham acknowledges ‘Receipt of warrants to rub the names out of the sterns of the Victory and Formidable, …’ ADM 106/1244/116 So here we have at least one captain saying ‘No, not on my ship’. HTH, Bruce
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And a warm welcome to MSW from the UK. 👍
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
bruce d replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
Looking good, Joe. BTW, ignore my advice in the other thread about Cornwall Model Boats, I see you have already found them. 👍 -
Joe, I hear you. The good news is that it is unlikely you will be the first to encounter an issue with a particular material or kit so ... ask and find out how someone here has already found an answer. Besides our MSW sponsors there are other places that support the UK model-habit such as Cornwall Model Boats ( Cornwall Model Boats - Static display and radio control model boat kits including period wooden model ships.Model Ship fittings, Caldercraft Boats ) to name but one. They stock Occre kits. HTH Bruce
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Double sided tape works well for this. If you are using a slitting saw blade it's probably best to raise it higher than normal practice and use a slow feed rate. To release the brass from the sacrificial wood without distortion can be a problem, I soaked the whole assembly for a day or so in white spirits to loosen the bond. Plywood may fall apart after this which is the best result.
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Looking good, Kevin. BTW, I watched your video on clamps earlier and learned a couple of things. Thanks!
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
bruce d replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice work, Bitao, and thanks for showing the secret tool that makes the magic. -
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Hello John, First, well done for doing a 'dress rehearsal' of a vital process. Just a point concerning the images: it appears the grain in all three pieces is going in the same direction. When you do it for real, I believe the centre piece should have the grain running cross-ways. The direction of grain will was a primary factor in construction for the original shipwrights and will apply in many components in a serious model. The fit looks good, will watch for next steps. 👍
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Nothing to confirm or deny, but they are there. I have high hopes for having more information soon(ish) but whether or not it will change any existing ideas about her appearance or fittings remains to be seen. Now I'm curious. Why the interest in cannon ball racks?
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Swivel guns
bruce d replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Toni, Haven't found a rule to quote but these images below from NMM are pretty consistent. The swivels are above the rail but not so high that the crew would be impeded in reloading. As I understand it, and as is illustrated in these contemporary models and plans, the swivels most deadly use was in firing down into an attacker and the quick working of the guns depended on the crew being able to get on with it without acrobatics. Since they are so often found mounted outboard of or directly above the rail, they really couldn't be any higher. So (at least the way I am going to mount mine after asking myself the same question) - the swivel guns will be at approximately shoulder height relative to the deck. Atalanta (1775); Warship; Sixth rate; sloop; 16 guns | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) Warship (1740); Sixth rate; Sloop; Brigantine; 12 guns | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) Fighting vessel; Bomb vessel | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) Warship; Sixth rate; 24 guns | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) Warship; Frigate; Amazon class; Fifth rate; 32 guns | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) Escorte (captured 1757) | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) Senegal (1760) | Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg.co.uk) As a by-the-by, I believe there were also occasions when a swivel gun was jury-rigged to fire from a mast-head. I am so glad I didn't live in the 18th century. -
Steve, welcome to MSW from southern England. That is a very nice model, looking forward to seeing more. Regards, Bruce
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