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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. Bob, Welcome To MSW! This is a great place for advice, so here is some: don't get one of the cheapies from Ebay, you will hate it. Most of the little 'cute' kits from China are pirated anyway with crap materials. Get something designed for a beginner, the type suitable for a kitchen-table builder, and enjoy it. You will get good materials, good advice from MSW, and the odds are with you. I will defer to the Aussie members to name kits that are easily available down under but whatever you choose, please keep us involved.
  2. Modern Mechanics, July 1930. Again, what could possibly go wrong?
  3. From WORK magazine, January 1891: a bandsaw with a swiveling bed/table to make compound curves. I think I would keep all my favorite fingers away from this beast. Here is the whole magazine which has three pages of description and theory behind the machine. work_magazine_094_1891 COMPOUND BANDSAW.pdf Be careful.
  4. That did it: I am resurrecting my CAF longboat build. It's small but it is CAF and I now realise how much I want to see it displayed on a shelf in a glass case.
  5. You might find the previous incarnations of the same kits are also available. See here for a searchable database: C-3 Freighter Hawaiian Pilot, Revell 05236 (2005) (scalemates.com) HTH, Bruce
  6. Hello halituzun and welcome to MSW from the UK. Those are very nice models and it is great to see the beautiful horse drawn subjects. I look forward to seeing more. Regards, Bruce
  7. Dave, what Bob says is right. However, to answer your specific question, you can make a cutter out of brass which may suit the occasional odd job. It will not keep an edge and sharpening will probably change any profile you previously had. So, I reccomend sticking with HSS or carbide cutters. It's very rewarding to grind your own cutters and not difficult. HTH Bruce
  8. Hello Scratchie, welcome to MSW from the UK!
  9. Looking forward to seeing the next moves, but take care of yourself first. We'll wait.
  10. I would be interested in this paper if that is possible.
  11. I have encountered this a few times when trying to repair/restore picture frames. Never found any rhyme or reason, even found one frame where two pieces shrank and the other two didn't. No solution but.... you are not alone. I will be interested if anyone can shed light on this.
  12. Hello Ross and a warm welcome to MSW from the UK. Your Beagle looks good, why not consider a build log for her? There is no rule that says you have to start at the beginning! Regards, Bruce
  13. Pat, I will be interested to see if what comes of this. Are you aware of the Delftship tutorial elsewhere in this site? Search 'DELFTSHIP', using filter 'in titles only' and you will find a number of threads. Apologies if you already know this 🤐
  14. Haven't visited them in a while but these people are long-time specialists (and five minutes away from Cuty Sark!): About Us (navalandmaritimebooks.com) HTH. Bruce
  15. Hello Bruce, and a warm welcome to MSW from the UK.
  16. How they used to make power extension leads: what could go wrong? (Same edition of Popular Mechanics Shop Notes)
  17. Popular Mechanics Shop Notes Special, 1918:
  18. Perplexed by which keel clamp to buy? Problem solved! 4 From HOBBIES WEEKLY magazine, May 29, 1937
  19. You will do just fine. That is the type of problem solving that keeps the model-making fires burning.
  20. Another two cents worth: You can make a collar and/or a saddle out of wood that fits the drill body and has a flat bottom surface. Once satisfied, epoxy them to the drill body and now think of this whole assembly as your headstock. This should be easy to fettle into alignment. I suggest hardwood for these pieces. The lathe I described in my earlier post was made this way. The old geezer who made it was full of tricks. To achieve alignment, he made the collar and saddle deliberately loose fitting and secured them to the base plate. He then mixed a wad of Milliput (a two part modelling putty) and packed it into the area where the drill would be clamped by the collar and sat on the saddle. Then he carried out his alignment procedure and left it to finish curing. Afterwards he added some bracing to keep the now perfectly aligned headstock stable. This is one solution. Lots of drill-lathes are out there that don't have Milliput in their components so obviously it a wide open subject. Permatex or Evo-Stick Hard Metal Epoxy would probably be a better 21st century alternative but I have not used them with wood. Keep us posted please, it's a good project. Bruce
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