bruce d
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Everything posted by bruce d
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Hello Neil, thank you and welcome to MSW. May I suggest posting as well in 'New Member Introductions'? https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ I am on my way to your website as soon as this is posted! Regards, Bruce -
angle of attack of my blade
bruce d replied to agamemnon9's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I will get erasers immediately, looks to be the perfect tool for the job. A kitchen chopping board, the food-grade plastic type, is ideal for slicing up into push sticks and featherboards for small work. I stole an expired one from the Admiral's stash and was so impressed I bought a new one (£1) on the next trip to Ikea. -
Very nice work on the buckets. That lathe looks like an MD65: I knew they were bulletproof, now it seems waterproof as well.
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And on wood that will get a coat of poly, shellac, sealer or just about anything.
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Hello Bartley, Not being a chemist, I must generalize quite a bit. A small amount of silicone completely ruined the finish on three projects underway in my old workplace quite a few years back. Someone had a trace on their hands (left hand from the evidence) and three of the four items we were sweating blood to get ready before a deadline had reactions when painted leaving finger and palm patterns where they had been handled. Besides the commercial crisis because of the need for the whole team to pull two all-nighters in a row to put right the damage there was considerable human fall-out. The likely source was a can of spray lube for a garage-type door that had just been bought. We had a ceremonial can-burning, Wicker Man style. A friend in electronics then told me his own version of the problem and introduced me to 'silicone nodule migration' (yes, it is a thing). Hence the NO SILICONE rule when I started putting together my workshop a few years ago in anticipation of woodwork and modelmaking. I know most people use it and don't have a problem, but any silicone-bearing product in our little corner of heaven has to stay in the house, not the important area where I fiddle around.
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I would have thought the different rig would be a good enough reason. Perhaps when it is possible you could post pictures of the two for comparison, I expect some people will ooohh and aaaahh at different features.
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Here is the link to the active ingredients ... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_synthetic_polymers … and silicon appears to be among the possible ingredients as does Teflon. Silicon is banned in my work area, old bad experience. I would be interested to know if it is in the product. Good find!
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New Member: Boats Billy, Wichita, KS
bruce d replied to Boats Billy's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW Billy, looking forward to your log. -
Welcome Jacques, I look forward to seeing you here.
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I think the same applies to the lances, but the closer picture shows 'frills' much closer to 12 inches. I have no real idea why they exist on a lance on a boat in the hunt. The line to the wrist is on the lance, the killing weapon, not the harpoon. Grizzly stuff.
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If I understand correctly, you are asking about a hole called a 'lance tail'. I do not know for sure if this is the answer but here goes: A whaler's lance was a close quarters tool. It had a wrought iron head about five or six feet long fixed to a hickory pole about the same length. A line from the pole ended in a loop worn around the user's wrist. The lance was driven home, often repeatedly, and the mate had the job of hanging on while the struggle got rough. To keep the lance straight was a difficult task and had to be done immediately and rapidly while fighting the whale so a slot was provided in the bow area. The lance was rammed into the slot and the mate levered the handle to straighten the shaft, often in seconds in the middle of a kill. I do not know the name given to the slot for this horrific purpose but the position of the hole indicated fits (if I understood the question). HTH Bruce
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To be pedantic, bolt it down before doing any tuning. Have fun!
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Jorge, For what it is worth, here is my opinion: do not attempt to use the saw (or judge it) until you have bolted it down solidly to a worktop. Do not use 'vibration dampening' rubber feet, just tighten it down directly to the bench. Get some good blades. Then, set it up from scratch following the makers' instructions. Once that is done you will be able to figure out if the saw is adequate for your needs. Bear in mind that if you replace the saw on the basis of current performance, you will have to follow the process above to set up your new one properly anyway. HTH, Bruce
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Jorge, is your saw bolted down?
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ancre La Jacinthe 1823 by guraus - Scale 1:48
bruce d replied to guraus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Alexandru, Fantastic. Well done. I especially like your deck work and boat. Regards. Bruce -
Wait! Did it say the boat was collapsible, or the soldiers?
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Newcomer looking for help with Cutty Sark rigging
bruce d replied to Ann's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hello Ann and welcome to MSW. Your story is proof, if any was needed, that this is a hobby with a purpose. I am sure you will get pleasure from completing a task with such deep personal connections and hopefully the forum will be useful: it usually is. Regards, Bruce -
Hello Graham, I have just discovered your log and am greatly impressed. I had a quick skim through and believe the next thing is for me to go back to the start because just about every post I saw had something good. Regards, Bruce
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Now that is a pretty good trick: 17ft long, 100 soldiers with kit and drawing three inches of water! Reminds me of a modern cruise ship.
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So let's see: he was a fake bone model seller working for Bonaparte. Does that make him a Boney phoney? Or a model spy? I know, shuddup and go back to sleep ....
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Yes it does. When I saw it, that is exactly what I thought but wondered how often is it applied to a model? Now that the subject is itching me, I will see what is hidden in my shelves or digital stash that tells the story. Thanks, Bruce
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