bruce d
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Everything posted by bruce d
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Me too, but now I am alert I see another 'fail' in the second sketch in post#2: planks 1 and 2, right hand side, also incorrectly spaced. -
Ahhhh. Got it. I must have looked at that a dozen times, thanks.
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Okay, maybe I am being thick. How does it fail? There are three planks between the butts and three beams betwen the butts: what am I missing?
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Welcome to MSW and let me add my compliments. That is a good looking ship.
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Kevin, well done. Untill I watched I didn't 'get' the decision to use a master with grooves cut in, or for that matter how to make the grooves. Now I get it and clearly it is a good way to produce identical boats. A couple of questions, if you don't mind. (They will not make sense to anyone who hasn't watched the video) Once the ribs/frames were in place, you sanded them down. I get that and of course this was possible because the ribs were supported in the grooves in which they were sitting, but still I wonder how you went about the sanding without overstressing the already small pieces. Hand held sanding block? Rotary tool? The PVA release agent looks like a good find, well done English (see the video to decipher that message). If I am hearing your dialogue correctly you say that it left a residue: is that correct? Does the residue peel off or does it perhaps soak in to the wood which may affect later finishes? Thanks for taking the time to produce the videos. Bruce
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Found this; La Belle.pdf LA BELLE: RIGGING IN THE DAYS OF THE SPRITSAIL TOPMAST, A RECONSTRUCTION OF A SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY SHIP’S RIG A Thesis by CATHARINE LEIGH INBODY CORDER - La Belle was a late 17c French vessel that was described as a barque or 'small figate'. Many artifacts illustrated and direct comparisons with the practices of other countries. Should be useful if considering a subject from 17th-18th centuries. HTH Bruce
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Hydraulic Dredge by Steve Harvath
bruce d replied to Steve Harvath's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nice work. There is a dredger drawing in this PDF, page 214 (page numbers are reacting oddly, it is magazine page 180 something). canadian ship marine engineering p 214.pdf -
Happy birthday, Kevin! Many happy returns of the day! The boat looks good, show us the cake.
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Code of Yachting Signals by the New York yacht club
bruce d posted a topic in Nautical/Naval History
1874 publication 'Code of yachting signals'by the New York Yacht Club, title says it all. Hope it is useful to someone. Code of yachting signals - New York Yacht Club.pdf Bruce-
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Hello Neil, thank you and welcome to MSW. May I suggest posting as well in 'New Member Introductions'? https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ I am on my way to your website as soon as this is posted! Regards, Bruce
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angle of attack of my blade
bruce d replied to agamemnon9's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I will get erasers immediately, looks to be the perfect tool for the job. A kitchen chopping board, the food-grade plastic type, is ideal for slicing up into push sticks and featherboards for small work. I stole an expired one from the Admiral's stash and was so impressed I bought a new one (£1) on the next trip to Ikea. -
Very nice work on the buckets. That lathe looks like an MD65: I knew they were bulletproof, now it seems waterproof as well.
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And on wood that will get a coat of poly, shellac, sealer or just about anything.
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Hello Bartley, Not being a chemist, I must generalize quite a bit. A small amount of silicone completely ruined the finish on three projects underway in my old workplace quite a few years back. Someone had a trace on their hands (left hand from the evidence) and three of the four items we were sweating blood to get ready before a deadline had reactions when painted leaving finger and palm patterns where they had been handled. Besides the commercial crisis because of the need for the whole team to pull two all-nighters in a row to put right the damage there was considerable human fall-out. The likely source was a can of spray lube for a garage-type door that had just been bought. We had a ceremonial can-burning, Wicker Man style. A friend in electronics then told me his own version of the problem and introduced me to 'silicone nodule migration' (yes, it is a thing). Hence the NO SILICONE rule when I started putting together my workshop a few years ago in anticipation of woodwork and modelmaking. I know most people use it and don't have a problem, but any silicone-bearing product in our little corner of heaven has to stay in the house, not the important area where I fiddle around.
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I would have thought the different rig would be a good enough reason. Perhaps when it is possible you could post pictures of the two for comparison, I expect some people will ooohh and aaaahh at different features.
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Here is the link to the active ingredients ... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_synthetic_polymers … and silicon appears to be among the possible ingredients as does Teflon. Silicon is banned in my work area, old bad experience. I would be interested to know if it is in the product. Good find!
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New Member: Boats Billy, Wichita, KS
bruce d replied to Boats Billy's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW Billy, looking forward to your log. -
Welcome Jacques, I look forward to seeing you here.
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I think the same applies to the lances, but the closer picture shows 'frills' much closer to 12 inches. I have no real idea why they exist on a lance on a boat in the hunt. The line to the wrist is on the lance, the killing weapon, not the harpoon. Grizzly stuff.
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If I understand correctly, you are asking about a hole called a 'lance tail'. I do not know for sure if this is the answer but here goes: A whaler's lance was a close quarters tool. It had a wrought iron head about five or six feet long fixed to a hickory pole about the same length. A line from the pole ended in a loop worn around the user's wrist. The lance was driven home, often repeatedly, and the mate had the job of hanging on while the struggle got rough. To keep the lance straight was a difficult task and had to be done immediately and rapidly while fighting the whale so a slot was provided in the bow area. The lance was rammed into the slot and the mate levered the handle to straighten the shaft, often in seconds in the middle of a kill. I do not know the name given to the slot for this horrific purpose but the position of the hole indicated fits (if I understood the question). HTH Bruce
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To be pedantic, bolt it down before doing any tuning. Have fun!
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Jorge, For what it is worth, here is my opinion: do not attempt to use the saw (or judge it) until you have bolted it down solidly to a worktop. Do not use 'vibration dampening' rubber feet, just tighten it down directly to the bench. Get some good blades. Then, set it up from scratch following the makers' instructions. Once that is done you will be able to figure out if the saw is adequate for your needs. Bear in mind that if you replace the saw on the basis of current performance, you will have to follow the process above to set up your new one properly anyway. HTH, Bruce
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