bruce d

Hello Bill, as Jan has said, wood requires a different approach. If movement appears in the wood, you may be able to correct it without drama. Trying to alter the wood's properties may cause the problem you are trying to avoid. In my Mediator build I was aghast to find the hull developed a bow after assembly. It was a central former with bulkheads, typical POB. Despite my first reaction, it was totally fixable. Photos below show what did the trick. I used some well seasoned wood to make spacers of the exact width between the bulkheads measured at the centreline (made one and cut it in half to ensure both sides were the same). No two gaps were the same so each spacer was made to suit for a snug fit. Once satisfied the spacer was the right width, I installed it on the tight side, ie the inside of the curve, tight up against the central former, giving a glued surfaces on three sides. Then I installed the matching spacer on the opposite side. Clamps were used at each step. This deals with (A) straightening the curved central former and (B) ensuring each bulkhead was parallel with it's neighbours and at right angles to the former. I left a gap where the mast was to be located. Nearly two years on and it is still straight. All this is just my way of dealing with the problem once it appeared: most builds don't have this issue so ... wait and see if you actually have warping or movement and then react. HTH, Bruce

Can you give us the source for this? I'm in the middle of making something similar.

Welcome to MSW from East Sussex.

It's gorgeous, it would be a shame to cover up that wood and the joints. (In my opinion)

Aw shucks.

A Warm Welcome aboard from the UK. Don't know where you are but there are a couple of Georgia boys here IIRC. One from Roswell and I believe one from Marietta, maybe a Savanah member? Looking forward to seeing a build log for whichever you settle on.

Practical lesson: I cut some iroko on the bandsaw without a mask. I was sick for over a week. Now I wear a decent respirator or at least a filtering mask if I do any sanding with machines, ditto for any hardwoods on the bandsaw.

Title: Bang Bang! Cannons, Carronades and the Gun Carriages from the Storm Wreck by Chuck Meide. The text seems distorted in places but still legible Bang_Bang_Cannons_Carronades_and_the_Gun (1).pdf

It certainly looks useful. Food for thought, thanks.

Back in 2013 someone asked a similar question ... ... and as far as I can see no-one at MSW had. I have searched to see what has popped up in the ten years since the question and still can't find a log for any ship built using his methods. It is very possible I am missing something so I would be grateful if anyone can point me towards a log or discussion on the subject. Bruce

... and to keep the lateral movement lively, I believe 'jaseur' is French for 'waxwing', a bird. So, it's a small fish-bird about 20 feet long that is really a boom and at it's best in good weather. Glad to help, anytime.

An 1894 French-Italian dictionary titled 'Premier essai d'un dictionnaire niçois, français, italien' has this page: I have no idea what it means, but it is there ...

Do you have a particular project or task in mind? Titebond makes a room-temperature hide glue that makes life simple, you may have trouble finding it but try luthier suppliers such as Timberline hereintheUK. If the reversible quality is what you are after perhaps home-made rice glue is the answer. There is a thread somewhere discussing it. HTH Bruce

If the brass is firmly sandwiched between two sacrificial pieces of wood you should be able to get a decent result. I do. If scale matters however it's probably best to use thinner material and follow Dr PR's advice above. Let us know what you find, I doubt we are getting a new commercial source of thin brass strips anytime soon.

Glenn, do you have a Byrnes or Proxxon saw?

It is looking very good Mustafa, as always. Sorry to hear about your knee, take care.

John, I was in Bassett Road at that time ... four blocks away. Seems we might have bumped into each other at Portobello Road market on Saturday mornings. For the record, here is the mini-beltsander I enthused about: Image is representative of Alibaba items, same machine is available from a dozen vendors.

Hello John, I have one of the AliBaba belt Sanders that was bought on a whim. It's great! You have probably seen they come in different forms but all appear to have the same components so all I can say is mine works well, the dc motor is plenty strong enough for the job, the supplied belts are better than expected, the variable speed/reversing transformer is a must and most surprisingly the build quality was rock-solid. I wouldn't use this tool for non-stop production line work but I sharpen chisels and saw blades with it as well as the lighter jobs and it doesn't complain. HTH Bruce

Chris, wise words from Jaaeger. As a test, try putting a credit card (or something similar) between the fence and the wood before the blade: this will eliminate any 'pinch' occurring as the workpiece is passing between the blade and the fence.

Hello Chris, First thought: what blade are you using?

Hello Valeriy, hope you are okay. Was this winch European? Regards, Bruce

Timberline Decorative and Specialist Hardwoods | Tonewoods | Guitar Making (exotichardwoods.co.uk) My go-to. Phone if the catalogue doesn't have exactly what you are looking for.

Stick around...

Kevin, well done. Having just watched the video (#107, treenails by the thousands), I have two things to say. 1 - You are fearless with the sanders in the early part 2 - At about the 17 minute mark you look at the tree-nailed port side and say that you are happy: you should be tickled pink, it's gorgeous! All the best, Bruce