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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Floorboards and simulated nails are just about done. I need to erase the guiding pencil lines tomorrow. I used a fine tip black pen for the nails. Loved Bob Fs method of using black paint brush bristles but that method would have surely stressed me out. I'm pretty satisfied with the results. Steve
  2. Thanks for all the likes everyone. As most of you, I have ridiculously high standards for my work. That being said I really want to try to figure out a way to sand the inside planks where it's painted red to get a better finish. I'm just not sure if it's worth the effort. Especially when it might not be noticed after all the other inboard details are done. What do you guys think? Steve
  3. Wanted to give a quick update. I've been painting the cap rail and inside Tamiya flat red. The photo shows three coats. It's not as clean as I want yet so there's more sanding and paint ahead. I'm not thrilled with the brushes I am using so I will get some new ones before the next project. It's a tricky area to paint! Steve
  4. Annoying they would burn it right on the transom. I would attempt to make a new one. No extra wood in the kit that thickness? Maybe get some extra basswood from Michael's? Steve
  5. How's she coming along, Erik? Eagerly awaiting your progress as many others probably are too! Side note- excellent longboat build. I've also used to reference for my longboat build. Steve
  6. It is coming along nicely. I also just found your longboat build. Nicely done! Best of luck with the plank bending for this one. Hoping it goes smoothly for you and is a little easier than the longboat. I am following closely, as this is my next build as well. Steve
  7. The oars are coming along. I think you are right- more fine sanding should do the trick. Glad to see you back at this build. I'm currently doing some tests before I paint the cap rail on mine. Did you do any masking inboard before you painted or freehand? Steve
  8. It's looking good to me. Your planning will pay off I'm sure. In skimming through some of the manuals online for these kits I noticed they all seem very "cookie cutter"- at least from this kit's designer. I hope the plans are clear. I will keep following your build. Steve
  9. Applied the freezes and moulding strip below. I advise that you apply the moulding strips first as it was tricky to keep the freezes pristine. I applied one coat natural stain to the moulding the night before. I left the transom freeze off. I thought the model looked better without. At least I think mine does. Painting the cap rail is next. Steve
  10. Nirvana- I'm enjoying it a lot more now that the planking is done. It's an extremely challenging kit! Gunther- I think it does add character. Originally I selected all similar colored planks but as I started to break the planks when bending, the wood became more varied. I'm still pretty happy with it. It's smoother than it looks. Sanded with 220 then 320 then 400 sandpaper. Thank you both for the kind words. It is much appreciated! Steve
  11. Ok fellow builders- one coat of pre-stain and then one coat of natural stain. Cut out the freezes. What a pain! I will apply these after I apply WOP. I think I will paint the cap rail after the WOP is applied and freezes are on along w the moulding strip that needs to be applied. Special thanks to the stain for highlighting the imperfections! Steve
  12. Thank you, everyone. Yes I did read about the hairspray trick. Did some research though and was also prepared to purchase proper fixative because there's some debate on the long term effects of hairspray. I'm giving Minwax Polycrylic clear satin a try since I have it. Yes- I have many freezes now. Applied two coats. Gives a bit of a sheen but it looks protected. Steve
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