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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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Spent the week working on the oars. I did this in a few stages. First I drew a line down the center so I could taper the blades. I used a sanding block to round off the corners then switched to a folded piece of sandpaper to finish rounding the edges. I thinned everything down as close to the plans as possible so the proportions would look correct. I tried a different color scheme than I've seen in other logs. The photo shows several coats of paint and WOP applied. I could not capture a great photo. Steve
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Looks good. I like the paint scheme you will use. I don't like the white dots on the thwarts. No clue why they are there. Sorry can't help with that one. Steve
- 128 replies
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It's looking good! The smalllest size of the stain is 8oz about $5 each. Pre stain $12 + wipe on poly satin $12. Looking at roughly $30 for these minwax products. I recommend the WOP over the polycrylic. (I've tried both and the Polycrylic has more of a shine to it). If you decide to go this route. Steve
- 66 replies
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- bounty launch
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Coming along nicely, Andrew. Steve
- 74 replies
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- Marine Model Company
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Painting skills- check! Nicely done. Steve
- 162 replies
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Yes and I think it's a better choice than the Phantom, which he also has a practicum. The phantom is nice, but it's very small and I think you will learn more in this kit with all the detail and rigging. Look forward to your updates. Steve
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Looks like a clean start to me. You may find yourself caring about the outcome of this build before you know it! I think you will learn a lot from Chuck's practicum. His are all very good. Steve
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- 165 replies
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In the second round of installing the oarlocks, I used a straight edge to draw a line roughly in the center of the caprail in the locations where the oarlocks would be placed. I then used a small file to draw two equally spaced perpendicular lines. This method worked much better for me. Not perfect but I'm getting used to drilling these tiny holes! Repainting the caprail was not fun. I wanted to see how Minwax Polycrylic(water based) satin would look over the paint job. I think it provided a little more sheen than the Minwax WOP. It certainly dries quicker and no time to buff to dull the shine. It's a little more shine than I want, but I think I may accept it, as the idea of painting it again is exhausting. The rudder setup is just about done. The tiller has been shaped and stained. I will install on the next updates. I think I'll work on the oars next. Steve
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It's getting there. Eventually it will just come together. Keep working on it until you're happy. Steve
- 258 replies
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Bob- thank you. It looks great. I have to stop fiddling with the oarlocks on mine so I can move forward!! Steve
- 277 replies
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Nice work. I'll follow along. Steve
- 128 replies
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Wow- painting already! Seems like you just started on this project. Awesome! Steve
- 162 replies
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Samueljr added sails to his: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4559-18th-century-longboat-by-samueljr-finished/?fromsearch=1 Steve
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- 18th century longboat
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I can't wait to see what you decide. I think if you wanted to you could finely sand the layers of WOP off and still stain. So don't rule that out if you had it in mind. Test it on scrap first, of course. Not an expert, but I'm learning about these minwax products as I go. Really enjoying your build. Steve
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No rush. Just wanted to see what the other part of your rigging looked like. I'm in the midst of repainting my caprail and touchup as well. Not close to rigging yet. Thank you for your reply. Steve
- 277 replies
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Bob- it looks great! Very excited about this:) Can you take a photo of the top of the mast for us? Steve
- 277 replies
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Just found your log and skimmed through it. Nice work on this kit! Steve
- 164 replies
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