Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click here to order ×

Tigersteve

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,320

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Tigersteve
    The instructions said to put them in after. I faired the frames then did some sanding on those two pieces before I glued them in. Then I had to do a little more sanding. The frames look good but if you notice any of them off, you should correct it now. It may affect the shape of the boat. Look at the frames from a couple different angles. Happy New Year! Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    Looks good. I would not unglue the skylight either! Lol Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    Yes- keep going. Looks good! Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    Keith- your build of this is awesome. That's a log for all builders of this one to see. Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    The natural stain is not a clear stain. It will darken the wood. Even the pre-stain will darken the wood a little bit. If you scroll through my log you will see the results of the pre-stain and natural stain on basswood. Some of the photos show the wood better. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14395-18th-century-longboat-by-tigersteve-model-shipways/page-1# Depends on your preference. Do some tests and see what you like. I have all oil based Minwax except for the polycrilic. Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    Pencil for inbetween the planks. You can pencil one edge of each plank. You do not need to mark the stem and keel. That seam will show anyway. I would not poly until planking is done. I did not have to reinforce the stem and keel. I don't think it's necessary. The wood glue makes a strong bond. Everything is prone to breakage. These parts are small. Hope this helps. Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    Me too Steve
  8. Tigersteve
    It looks fantastic. Good work. The rest should be more "relaxing". Don't forget to pre-stain before you stain. Very fine sanding before. Golden Oak usually turns out darker than people expect. My preference was to use the natural stain. Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    There's a few more longboat builders in the mix now. How's yours coming along? It's been a while and we're waiting for this surprise! :-) Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Windlass and handles are complete. I drew reference lines and that helped while filing the shape. This part was enjoyable to make. You'll notice an extra windlass I did freedhand now scrap. I completed the horse. It was difficult to get the wire straight. One of my drill bits broke so no oarlocks for now. Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    Bob- it looks great! Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    Mike- thank you for the compliment! This is a very challenging kit. Just take your time with it and check all the logs. I followed Erik W, Mike Stuntflyer, Bob F, and Chuck's of course. The planning and laying out of all the tick marks for the planking is extremely important. There are no filler blocks needed in this build. The fair-a-frame you got should help to set up your bulkheads square. I look forward to your first steps. Steve
  13. Tigersteve
    I'm curious what you will do with the "bread and butter" boats that come with the kit. Scratch building them will prob take a while although so will the other method. Looking forward to what you do with them. Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    Much appreciated. Thank you. I'm just trying to follow the footsteps of some of the folks who have done a great job building her. From seeing your work I think your boats will turn out great. I can't imagine doing this at a smaller scale. This boat is only 6 1/2 inches! Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    Great work. Very consistent. Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Yes. His log is a very good example. If you look at the instructions it shows the same. Here's another build log for you. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/629-18th-century-english-longboat-by-chuck-c1760/?fromsearch=1 Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    That sounds correct. Bob F's log of this build is very well done. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-model-shipways-148-tri-club/?fromsearch=1 Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    It's been slow going but lots of progress. All knees were shaped, painted, and installed. The one at the bow was most difficult. These parts seem to get smaller and smaller! Locker hinges are installed. I painted the brass strips black and used the eye hooks as hinges. I left those unpainted for contrast. Oar locks and windlass are next! Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    Beautifully done. Enjoying this very much. Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    Mike- welcome. Chuck has designed a great kit. I'm in the middle of it myself. I've been using wood glue. It works great. Just a dot at each frame when doing the planking is enough. Best of luck. Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    Hi John- the planking is coming together! Here's a link on those minwax products. The pre-stain is to prep the wood before you stain for an even application of stain. The sanding sealer would be more appropriate to prep the wood for paint and not used before staining. Hope this helps. http://www.minwax.com/how-to-finish-wood/wood-preparation/ Steve
  22. Tigersteve
    Nicely done. It's one of the most tedious parts those tick strips! Steve
  23. Tigersteve
    Almost there! Good work. Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    I would use a dot of wood glue at all the frames/bulkheads. Clip it at the bow with your binder clip- and hold and press the plank for a few minutes. Flip the boat over and clean any excess glue with a smIll brush and water before it dries. The wood glue should get dry quickly enough to hold. No expert by any means. Just my two cents. Steve
  25. Tigersteve
    I really thought it would be smooth sailing from here until the rigging started. I was wrong. I sanded all of the laser cut knees. When I removed and dry fitted the knee that goes at the bow I discovered that the my cap rail shape (inboard) did not match shape of the knee that is supposed to go there. I spent some time scratch building this particular knee. Not successful yet. It will take a little time. Sorry no photos of the failure. Needed to post my frustration. Merry Christmas in the meantime! Next post after all is resolved and knees are painted and installed. Locker hinges should be complete by then also. Steve

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...