tlevine
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Everything posted by tlevine
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
tlevine replied to Tobias's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You will be the only one who notices! Looks great. -
Incredible is the only word I can use to describe it.
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Kit Build Logs 1750-1800
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Nicely done. When you build that next model, consider replacing the kit wood and spiling the hull planking.
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To install the rail, I used regular spring clamps, with the jaws on either side of the hull planking. I placed a piece of scrap on top of the rail and pushed the clamps down so they dug into the scrap. As there is no tension on the rail, after a few minutes it is good to go.
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Great reworking! I'm excited to see the new runs of planking.
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Thanks to everyone for your support. Greg, rigging her is not on the horizon. I already have three models that are incomplete because I abandoned their rigging. As to what's next, the base will take a bit of time. I have been considering Chapelle's Glad Tidings as a change of century. It only took the Smithsonian a year to send me the plans. Their excuse was that their copier was broken (and, no, I did not suggest Office Max).
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Would you build a model of the model (which is what I seriously thought of doing) or a model of how she and her sister ship Drake were built?
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Swallow is finished, other than a few touch-ups which will be addressed after I mount her. My plan is to duplicate the base from RMG as much as possible. It will probably take me a few weeks to source the wood and draw up the plans.
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Swivel guns
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I ran into the same problem, Allan. On my plans from the RMG, the tops of the swivel mounts are all the same distance from the top of the deck at the bulwark, 48". -
Based in information obtained in another thread (thanks to everyone for their input), I have decided to have the muzzle height at 4 feet from the deck. Leaving for the Admiralty Models workshop tomorrow morning so there will not be any updates for a week.
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Swivel guns
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Thank you everyone. I will locate the guns at chest height. The top of the mounts is at 3 feet above deck. Unfortunately, that will entail some serious surgery to the already-built mounts. -
I am getting ready to install the swivel guns I made last year. They look too tall to be used comfortably. Does anyone know what elevation the muzzle should be from the deck when it is horizontal? I am guessing eye level but would hate to install them and then find out I guessed wrong.
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Swivel guns
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Thanks, gentlemen. Unfortunately, without knowing the height of the rails and swivel post, it is difficult to determine their elevation from photos. -
Swivel guns
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Thanks, Louie. It would be the late 18th century, specifically for my Swallow build. I made them last fall and when I installed them yesterday, they just seem too high up from the deck (five feet). -
What would be the height for a swivel gun above the deck? Waist? Chest? Eye level?
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After looking at other models for ships this size, I decided to secure the lower shank with the shank painter. As druxey suggested, one end is attached to a ringbolt inside the bulwark and the free end terminates in a hook which is secured in a second ringbolt. The upper part of the shaft and the ring were tied off to timberheads. I have added a block of wood on the rail under the anchor to protect the rail from damage.
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Thank you to everyone who has looked in. Dan, I looked at Darcy Lever initially and (possibly because of his archaic writing style) ended up more confused then ever. A 21st century interpretation would be great. In the meantime, I will try druxey's advise.
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How does this look? The shankpainter would be bolted to the hull and drawn up over the bottom of the anchor shank and secured to a cleat on the inside bulwark. The top of the shank would be secured to a timberhead.
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Although I installed a shankpainter chain on Atalanta, I have no idea how they worked. Getting the stock out of the water sounds like a good idea.
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This is how it looks with the upper mold removed and then out of the mold. In the middle is the master anchor, to the right is the cast anchor after polishing and to the left is the anchor after taking a bath in Blue Jacket's Pewter Black. I applied the seizing and puddening to the anchor ring and then installed them on the anchors. The anchor stock was made next. You can see the holes drilled for the bolts and treenails. The stock was then applied to the anchor and the "iron" rings were applied. These are actually made from paper. Overall, I am pleased with the result. As I mentioned previously, I want to show the starboard anchor lashed to the hull. As the ship's base will be a launching ways, the hawser cable would not be attached. These pictures show the only location for the anchor that does not block any of the ports. I have been looking in all the books I have, as well as looking at models on the RMG site, and cannot figure out how it should be secured. I presume the shaft would be lashed to the aft timberhead but there must be some other rope securing it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks for looking in, Dan. As for rigging, the only other rigging I plan on doing is for the anchor! Speaking of which, I will be showing the ship with two bower anchors; the starboard one will be secured to the ship and the port will be lowered onto the base. Since I had good luck casting the armament, I decided to cast these from pewter as well. This is the material I use for the casting. It is a high temperature silicone rubber that can be used for low-melting-point metals like pewter. The second picture shows the rest of the equipment necessary for the casting, including a pewter rod. As you can see, there is nothing exotic about the process. It is, however, very sensitive to the relative weights of the components, so they need to be weighed down to the gram. The first step was to make a master anchor from wood. It would have been a lot less work if I had simply made two anchors from wood but I like the look of the metal. I made a box from scrap basswood ply, embedded it in clay and did my first pour. After removing the clay, you can see the result. There are two dowels going through the mold for alignment. The pouring spout is on top and there are relief openings at the end of the flukes. These were too large, preventing the flukes from filling completely, and were reduced after a few unsuccessful pours. The next photos shows the mold after the second layer of rubber was poured before and after the master was removed. The two mold halves were clamped together, being careful not to distort them with the clamps. I used pieces of the box to distribute the pressure.
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Looks much better.
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