tlevine
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Everything posted by tlevine
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Absolutely start a build log. You will receive encouragement and (if you ask for it) guidance. I use PVA glue almost exclusively unless I am gluing dissimilar materials (wood to metal), in which case I will use epoxy or CA.
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Without having the model in hand, it is difficult to be definitive but I would guess that the garboard strake should end halfway between the two fore bulkheads. To give yourself a gluing surface will require a filler piece. It's all a learning experience. Remember, it's only wood. If it doesn't turn out you can remove the planks and re-do it.- 20 replies
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Cathead is right, the purpose is to learn on something inexpensive so that you can improve your skills for the next "real" project. I have done four of these, and each one is just a little different and (hopefully) a little better.
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Ken, compare your aft bulkheads with cathead's. You still need to refine them. Draw a line from the fore tip of bulkhead G up to where the counter and sternpost intersect. Everything aft of that needs to be sanded off. Also Ga and Gb need to be sanded down more aft to give a smooth run of planking at the stem rabbet. Finally, the first broad strake looks too wide. This will result in the rest of the planks being too narrow. As cathead says, battens are your friend. Love those clamps.
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The double-planked hull gives you the luxury of cobbing it together and using wood filler to compensate any small gaps between the planks. Butt shifting only comes in to play for the visible planking. I presume your two planking layers are a little different width? If they are the same, start your first layer of planking top-down and your second layer bottom-up. Plan on 14 planks amidships, not 13. Remember that you will be sanding a slight bevel into the planks to get them to fit tightly around the curve of the hull. This will be less of a factor at the stern, so you may only need one stealer, instead of two. Overall, your comments epitomize why I have not built a double-plank-on-bulkhead model in at least fifteen years. if someone could tell me which measurement to divide by 13.2 (planks) to determine the taper from midship to stern, and how you came to that conclusion, that's probably all I need to get moving. Currently I'm thinking of using the 60mm measurement divided by 13.2. Think of the midships as your baseline. So use the midships measurement, 66 mm. Again, there is no such thing as a 0.2 plank. Unless you have access to a few wider planks, divide each bulkhead into fourteen lines of planking. Use a tick strip (a piece of paper the length of the bulkhead) and divide it into fourteen equal sections. Do this for every bulkhead. When the width of the planks exceeds the width of your kit-supplied planking, it is time to insert a stealer and start dividing by fifteen. The key to the prevention of the smiley-face is taking care not to run the garboard and broad strake too high up the stem. Keep the questions coming!
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Mango, take a look at my half hull build log. This goes through the details of planking the hull, what is called "spiling". I think this will answer some of your questions. At the stern, you should be measuring from the keel rabbet all the way up, just as you did the others. What you will discover is that in order to fill in the space, you will need to add a plank. Also, the aft ends of the other planks will need to be wider than at the midship area.
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The next items were the pumps. The band on the top of the pump is self-adhesive copper foil, typically used in making stain glass windows. Looks like I need to clean out the inside of the pump! The original model of Swallow shows a carved swallow on the stern. The carving looks better in person than it appears in these pictures. Making the masts is next.
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As Greg said, the top timber is initially wider. Then, the aft portion of the upper part of the timber is sanded down and the fore portion of the lower timber is sanded. In his picture you cannot tell that the entire timber is narrower because the band is hiding the joint. If you go to the first post in my Echo (link in my signature) you can see the frame in question.
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Thank you, sir. And thanks to everyone who has been following the slow progression of this build.
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The wobbly truck has now been repaired. I have completed making the gun tackle and breeching ropes. The gun tackle is frapped and attaches with hooks to the bulwark and the gun carriage. The breeching is wrapped around the cascabel and attaches to rings on the bulwark. The end loop on the breeching is formed by splicing; the splice and the loop are served. I used a somewhat unusual tool to serve the loop...a crochet hook. And not the kind that is used to make a quilt. This is a #12 size, left over from when I used to make lace. To prevent the carriages from moving, a #76 hole was drilled into the edge of the deck planking and the front axle. A 24 G wire was inserted and glued with CA. You can see one of the wires in the first two pictures. Three down, eleven to go!
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The first gun has been temporarily installed. Looks like that rear truck needs a little straightening!
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It has been a few weeks since the last posting, but I have been busy in the shop. The next item on the list is installing the cannon. For this, I had to make 56 blocks. There are just over 1/8" long and are made from English boxwood. That was the easy part. Next came the strops. Strops are made from served line with either one or two eyes. Serving, splicing it into a loop and making the eyes took several days. The result is nowhere as good as some of our European brethren, but it is the best I can do at this size. Now to make the gun tackle.
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Dan Vadas found several when he built Vulture.
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Let me add my welcome to MSW. You chose a great model to replace the pirated Harvey. When you begin, please start a build log so we can follow your journey.
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"...MINIMUM required shop equipment" I presume you have the usual collection of a Dremel, clamps, forceps, pin vise, razor saw, etc. Whatever you purchase, make it the highest quality you can afford. Crap tools beget crap results. When I started scratch building, the first power tool I purchased was a Preac saw. So a table saw is a must. The next one was a disc/belt sander, now replaced with Jim's disc sander which is whisper-quiet. Until you are ready to invest in a good scroll saw, like a DeWalt, a jeweler's saw and jeweler's pin come next. As a personal challenge, all the frames on my Echo cross section were cut by hand. Other hand tools I cannot live without are chisels and sharpening system and calipers. As others have said, your needs will be determined by what you are building and how you are building it. For the first venture into scratch building, I would recommend sourcing wood the required thicknesses. Otherwise, you will need to add a band saw and thickness sander/planer to your list.
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My rule of thumb is this: if I feel any irregularity, I keep sanding.
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Ian, I set up a jig similar to the one shown below. I nailed two brads into a scrap of 2x4 and wrapped the wire around them, leaving the ends along the straight part of the plate. I then used a needle-nose pliers to pinch the wire just inside the brads (dotted line). The ends of the wire were then trimmed and soldered using a silver solder paste. Some of the silver flowed along the straight part of the plate, securing everything. No drilling required.
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I purchased mine from Rio Grande but Amazon also has it in smaller quantities. https://www.riogrande.com/product/copper-square-wire-dead-soft/132410GP/?code=132423 https://smile.amazon.com/Gauge-Copper-Wire-Square-Dead/dp/B08K8177PZ/ref=sr_1_24?crid=1YGLS6ZFIR23C&keywords=copper+square+wire&qid=1656709809&sprefix=copper+squ%2Caps%2C347&sr=8-24
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Thank you to everyone for the likes. I have made the rope for the gun rigging. Making the blocks comes next. Druxey, I started with sheet brass. Then I decided to clean my workroom, In doing so, I found the spool of square wire that I had used for the planking bolts. 24-gauge was the perfect size for the job. After a few "fails", the process went very quickly. I would never go back to the other way. After a Sparex soak, I used brass blackener instead of liver of sulfur and had no issues with blackening.
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I realize it has been a long time since this build log has been updated. Between finishing the Echo cross-section and the garden, there has been very little time for her. I have finally made some progress. The channels, deadeyes and chainplates have been installed. The angles for the chainplates was determined by stepping a false lower mast and running a line from the top to the chains. The deadeyes are made from English boxwood. I have not decided whether I like the color contrast of the channel moldings. These were made from apple. I tried a different approach on the preventer plate. Previously, I would cut the plate from sheet brass, drill the holes and score the middle of the plate. This time, I used 24-gauge square copper wire. I set up a jig with two brads, wrapped the wire around the brads, pinching at their bases and silver soldered the ends and center sections together. Heating the plate during the soldering process had the benefit of softening the metal so it could be bent over the middle link. Other details have been added. Preventer eyebolts have been installed, as well as eyebolts along the two masts. Only the foremost port was fitted with a cover. This was fitted so it would hinge on its fore side. The contemporary model shows six exposed timberheads, five in the bow area and one aft. The plan only shows three in the bow and none aft. I followed the plan. Next up will be rigging the guns.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
tlevine replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I'm speechless. That is absolutely gorgeous.- 371 replies
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
tlevine replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I agree. Please show us more of the stove.
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