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In some of the tables of rigging sizes, based on main stay size or mast diameter, he sometimes says things like ".016%" when he really means "16%".  Or he sometimes isn't clear whether he's specifying diameters or circumferences of ropes or spars.  It's usually circumferences.  (Obviously, if he's talking about relationships between two spars or two lines it doesn't make a difference). If you work through some of the examples it usually becomes obvious.

In sail rigging he's not clear whether some lines are on both sides of a sail or just fore or aft.

Otherwise most of the book is very useful.  Mine is worn out after only one build!

Several sources show their use on the USS Constitution, all three masts.  They're on MY model, anyway.

Home depot has 1" OD copper pipe.  Probably could turn it down.  Cheap too!

Are you shooting in raw with the D5100?  No way that an Iphone can have more shadow and highlight detail than a D5100 image shot at a reasonable ISO.

I use lead tape sourced from the tape sold to add weight to tennis racquets.  Amazon sells it. Can be burnished to make it thinner, easy to bend and stays the way you bent it, has a bit more strength than paper or masking tape.

I used this from Amazon for my sails.  It worked great.  It may be available in France.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZH21E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a common error of decimals and percentages in non-math oriented contexts.  I remember seeing candy, years ago, priced at .1 cent which is a lot different than 1 cent.  "Here's a penny, I'd like ten please!"

My wife is a retired math teacher.  I stand by my calculations!

How do you get 49"?  If he diameter of the mast is 30" 16% of that is roughly 5" (diameter).  Am I in error?

Or, more simply, the circumference of the main stay is 1/2 diameter of the main mast at the deck.  (Watch the diameter/circumference.  Any period documentation of rope sizes are talking about circumference, which is easy to directly measure vs. diameter which is not (or requires dividing by pi)). 

That's the error I noted some time ago in Montfeld.  It's not .166% of the main mast at the deck (0.00166 x 30=0.0498") it's 16.6% of the main mast  diameter at the deck (.166 x 30 = 4.98").  Big difference.

I restored a model very similar to this many years ago for a cousin of mine. What I remember most is that it was rigged with human hair!

I never thought I'd see Lily James look frumpy.

I use the blocks from Syren which are boxwood and have successfully stained them with Minwax stains (dark walnut) or tube oil colors (raw umber or burnt umber) thinned somewhat with turpentine or turpenoid (less smelly).

Have you checked the offending bulkheads against the plans to see where the discrepancy in shape is?  This will tell you what the proper remedy is, to sand the bottom or raise them up and sand the tops I think.

Do you have photos or drawings please?

PM sent

If the Fair American is still available will you accept $90?  Paypal and ship UPS to Florida.

Happy New Year!

Bill Schmidt

email      ******@******.com

Yes, that's what I remember.  Thanks!

Sometime in the past I came across a diagram that showed the rigging necessary for launching a ship's boat from its stowed position on the main hatch amidships.  It consisted of tackle rigged to the main yard and other spars but now I can't find it.  I'd like to do show a boat being prepared for launch from my USS Constitution.  Does anybody have such a diagram or a link?

I bought that big box of drill bits from ModelExpo the last time they were on sale.  I measured all of them when they arrived and found a HUGE discrepancy between what was supposed to supplied and what actually was received.  Some sizes were missing completely, some had double the quantity,  Don't tell anyone but when I emailed them with the results they sent me all the missing sizes and didn't tell me to send them the ones that were excess!  Pain in the neck to measure all those drills but it worked out in the end (for me)!

Amazon has (or have if you're British!) the loopers:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=glue+looper&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

They're all I use.  Small and medium for thin CA, large for thick.

I'm currently deep into the running rigging of the 1/96 Revell connie.  I drilled holes in all of the pinrails to hold brass belaying pins and didn't have a one split.  The pins I used are 5mm/13/64" long (19.5" long actual).  I drilled 0.6mm/1/64" holes in the rails for them.  That's a #72 or 73 drill.  My references said that the pins were iron so I just blackened the brass ones.  Oh, and I also pinned the rails to the deck or bulwark with pins made from brass nails with the heads cut off.  

Yes, I used Blacken-it.  Worked fine.

I'm currently deep into the running rigging of the 1/96 Revell connie.  I drilled holes in all of the pinrails to hold brass belaying pins and didn't have a one split.  The pins I used are 5mm/13/64" long (19.5" long actual).  I drilled 0.6mm/1/64" holes in the rails for them.  That's a #72 or 73 drill.  My references said that the pins were iron so I just blackened the brass ones.  Oh, and I also pinned the rails to the deck or bulwark with pins made from brass nails with the heads cut off.  

I use Minwax  "Special Walnut 224" stain.  It looks right to me.