Hubac's Historian
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This is really a very impressive kit, and your finish work is impeccable.- 355 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sphinx
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Wonderfully, practical approach, very well explained and a beautiful result!
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C'est parfois vrai, mais souvent la logique prévaut.
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It is nice to see you again, Marc. Beautiful work on the port framing!
- 205 replies
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- ship of the line
- soleil royal
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Happy Birthday, Bill!
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Thank you for the birthday wishes, Bill, and thank you very much for reading through my log! Over the years, it has grown to an absurd length for the progress made, but the research, therein, is essentially the book I will eventually write, in its unedited long-form. To your question, I would probably display one side with a fully open broadside, and the other side fully closed - if I wanted to show the contrast in appearance. On my first SR, I closed some ports on the lower tier, because I was copying the box cover artwork. As time went by, I came to regard that as a sort of arbitrary display without much logical grounding in what would have really happened on the ship. One other possibility would be to close all of the ports on the lower deck, as would be done if weather conditions would not allow for those guns to be run out.
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There are quite a number of MSW builders named Mark, who are doing remarkable things, here: Mark Taylor, Mark (SJ Soane), Mark Tiedens, and I am also a Marc. The work you are doing here, Mark, is very inspiring. I personally have ambitions of eventually building a large and complex fully framed model, like this, someday. Presently, I haven’t yet done anything like that, but it is comforting to realize what can be achieved by jumping right in there. I really appreciate your willingness to share the learning process - both for its triumphs and frustrations. You are doing an incredible job!
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Part two of my vacation begins this Friday. I will try to airbrush the red base before I leave, so that maybe I can lay down the blues and get a start on the yellow. I really like how the whole thing - the stern extensions, the frieze and port enhancements - all homogenizes under a layer of white primer: Painting this piece will be a marathon, but perhaps I will at least have the complete port side ready for the show. All the best, and thank you for looking-in!
- 2,444 replies
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Beautifully done, and well photographed. This log will be a gem!
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I’ve been enjoying a very restful and beachy vacation in Cape Cod. I brought one of the aft upper bulwark plates with me, and have been busily cleaning up the frieze, securing eyebolts for the gun tackles, filling some holes and drilling others. Not much to really show there. I did, however, happen upon this other build of the Heller kit, and it is wonderfully vivid in it’s use of color and shading: https://modellistinavali.forumattivo.com/t3669p75-soleil-royal-1-100-heller I thought it may interest some of you to take a look.
- 2,444 replies
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Actually, looking at it a little closer, now, I do think that before you glue-in the hawser pieces, you will want to do a good dry-fit between the bottom of the hawse pieces and the head knee extensions that wrap around the bow, and below the hawsers; if the hawse-piece obstructs the knee extension, in any way, that will be much harder to trim after the hawse piece is glued in-place.
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I think it will not pose any problem to do so, Bill.
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Nicely done, Bill! One observation - you may want to glue and putty in your hawser entry holes pieces sooner than later, so that you can paint the continuation of the bee-lines in this area.
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Yes, three cheers for the big cats! 48, this summer. Summer of 69 for you, Bill?
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Bee lines look very good, Bill!
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Very well done! I think you will continue to be pleased with your first effort, even as your skills continue to improve. There is very much to be proud of here; clean woodwork, and taught rigging are major accomplishments!
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Apart from everyone else’s excellent suggestions, I think it is always a good idea to sight the beelines with your eye close to the hull; look from bow to stern for a fair run, and then again from stern to bow. Because there is such a stark contrast between the black and yellow, you want to make sure there aren’t any unwanted flats or wobble in your lines. They should all be fair, smooth curves.
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You have made a wonderful model, B.E., and it has been a pleasure to watch your meticulous care and attention to all details, great and small. While Chuck makes an excellent kit, it still requires great talent and finesse to bring it to its fullest realization. Congratulations on a job well done!
- 185 replies
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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This looks really terrific, Tom. I look forward to seeing this in person, in New London!
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Thank you, John! Yes, 4-5 hours is a lot, and lately the exigencies of day-to-day life have made it impossible to maintain that pace. Nevertheless, progress is being made and I remain highly motivated to push the project forward before the show. Painting the monogram escutcheon centers blue does a lot to highlight their detail. This is one of the things I always thought to do differently, if and when I ever built the kit again. As the upper decks begin to go in, I will design railings for each deck level. My basic idea, here, is that the railing “spindles” will mirror whatever the corresponding paneling or design is for the quarter gallery and stern balconies, at each deck level. I’m not sure I’m expressing what I really mean, but all will become clearer as that time draws nearer.
- 2,444 replies
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- 5
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Yeah, I’m with you on that. After my current project, I’ll take on one small fully framed model - probably La Belle - to learn the craft, and then, it’s off to my masterpiece! I only hope that my eyes and hands hold up to the challenge.
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Extremely well done, and patiently realized. BRAVO!
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Agreed! I have found tremendous differences in the working properties of acrylics within the same brand, even, but different colors. For example, as a wood base-coat, ModelMaster Random Tan goes down effortlessly over broad surfaces without diluting. Don’t assume ModelMaster flat black will do the same, though; thinning is an absolute must. Same again, for their Insignia Red. Those colors, though, exactly meet my needs. Interestingly (to me at least), I made heavy use of those same colors on my first SR, but with no washes or distressing. Totally different result!
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- heller
- soleil royal
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