flying_dutchman2

Jan, 

Thanks for the pictures. 

I will not paint them and round them out. Unfortunately, my deck has a bit too much of a curve (another one of my mistakes).

I will redo the front one, the back one is OK. 

So many mistakes in this boat at times I wonder that it still looks like a boat. But I am learning a lot with building from scratch and my next boat will be an improvement over this one. I am having a lot of fun building her. 

Marcus 

Worked on the leaboards, the recangle pieces and the little wooden round pieces that slide horizontally in the chamfer area. 

Cut through the railing and sanded the inside on an angle. 

Made those round pieces by sanding the tip of a dowel round and than saw it off. Next drill a itty-bitty hole through it. 

Also finished the (I am at a loss of words) two long wooden pieces attached to the railing that hold the sail down. Still needs to be painted medium cadmium red.  

Marcus 

Thanks, Jan. The first picture is what I was looking for. It does go through the railing, even if it is a small hole and it makes the most sense. I looked at the same picture in the book of the Utrecht and even though it is dark, I recognize it. 

In the plans of the 17th century Dutch merchant ships it shows different ways of how the leeboards are attached to the ships. They all have a metal mechanism that slides horizontally. Some very simple and some more intricate. 

Marcus 

Question about the leeboards. 

In the plan it shows that the leeboard is attached to this rectangle holder with a slit through it but it does not go further than that. In all my other models of Dutch boats it goes through the railing as well and is fastened with metal.

OR

Is part of the railing removed and the leaboard holder in place of that area? 

With all the pictures of talks I have the leeboards go through the rectangle piece and the railing and fastened with a wire loop so it can move. 

Marcus 

Transom glued to boat. Working on the roof of the pavilion and presently painting it medium cadmium red. Looking at the boat as a whole, it is very flashy with all the bright colors. Just imagine lots of different flashy colored yachts on the Zuiderzee in the 17th century. 

Marcus 

Finished putting in the pavilion windows on the side. The windows stick out too much and th width of all three is longer than the plans, so not all the carvings fit. (another mistake). 

Cut out the canon holes and glued the gun wreaths (port holes in place

). I am leaving them gold and will not paint them yellow ochre. 

Too fill in the gaps between the carvings on the transom, I used sculpey. Formed the clay, baked at 275F for 15 minutes, cooled, painted, and glued in place. 

Marcus 

Worked on a few things. First I did the ornamentation on the railing. The cadmium red piece is a 1mm x 1mm dowel cut length wise (I did not cut it, this was purchased)  and glued flush with the top. The yellow ochre piece is 1mm x 2mm glued below the red piece. 

Transom with some carvings. The big mistake I made is the piece that is angled below the transom. It is too wide. It is because the sides of the pavilion are too high. Looks a bit weird but it will work. 

Marcus 

Thanks Mark, I see both tails. 

Marcus 

I don't see any tail(s) between its legs. As I see it, they are hidden. By any chance you wouldn't have a picture of that, would you? How am I going to carve that? Have a tail on each side of his rump? 

Marcus 

Jan, 

Thanks for the pictures. I was also interested in the back of the figurehead. How it is attached and the way the bow pieces are attached. Thanks so much. 

Marcus 

Comment for the Dutch members as they would understand the following statement. 

The sculpey cuts and shaves like "Hele oude Leidse kaas". (very old Leiden cheese) 

I wish I had some. Yumm. 

Marcus  

Mike, 

Love these boats as well. My next boat is the Boyer, one of the 17th century merchant boats. Picked this as it is a large model so I can add lots of details and it has a beautiful looking stern. 

Piet 

Thanks for the info. Found lots of Utrecht pictures on Google.nl.

My first attempt to do the figurehead in sculpey. Made a piece of 3 x 1 x 1 inches. Backed it at 275F for 30 minutes. Glued a picture on it and rough carving with an xacto knife.

Marcus 

Canon holes have been filled out and painted on the inside with medium cadmium red which is the same color as the inside of the railing. Still need to do the final coat of the cadmium red and the outside in cobalt blue. Transom is cut out and painted as well. Inside is Prussian blue and outside is cobalt blue. 

Created a carving peg board. Took a piece of pine board and drilled 1/4" holes every 1/2" and every 1" all over the board. Took birch and left over cherry dowels and cut them in 3 and 4 cm lengths. The piece that is in between the pegs is the River God carving. I cut it out with a hand jigsaw and added pencil marks which will be carved out and painted yellow ochre. 

The pieces on the blue cover still need to be carved. The red is cherry and the white is maple. 

So instead of the carving the canon wreaths, I am replacing those with port hole covers. Will file them down somewhat, paint them yellow ochre and, voila, done. 

This Wednesday I will meet a member from the north west Indiana woodworkers Association (a club I joined recently) and go through his stash of wood cut offs. There is a lot of basswood and balsa that I know of. Also, brass, copper, stainless steel, aluminum and other metals in strips and wire in various thicknesses. At the last club meeting I mentioned that I can use any cut offs that anyone wants to part with. After the meeting several members came to me and asked if I can use cherry, ash, alder and apple. I said yes, and I will have it in the December meeting. 

Hans, 

Thank you for the picture. It is a better one than I saw on Google. The gray part was new to me. I will go to your website and check it out. 

Marcus 

I went to Google.nl and searched for statenjacht Utrecht and came up with all types of pictures. Areas that need to be painted a total different color. Also found additional items that are not included in the plans. As I am going to model it like the replica, I am going to omit the canons. 

Marcus 

Question for the Dutch members who have seen the replica of the Utrecht more than once.

The lion is holding a shield with his front paws, what are the two colors? Top color and the bottom color. 

Nowhere in the Hoving book is their a picture depicting this and I have scoured the Net of Utrecht images. 

This would be much appreciated. 

Thanks 

Marcus 

Yesterday I cut out almost all of the carvings on the scrollsaw and today penciled in some simple lines that follow the curves. I am doing some of the examples of the plans but will omit the intricate stuff. Keeping it simple. Be creative in my carvings. Made a lot of diplicates as well. 

Marcus 

1 hour ago, *Hans* said:

If you want to make extra pieces of ornamentation you can take a medium thin thread (0,5 mm or so), make it stiff with some glue (white glue f.i.) and paint it afterwards in a gold or black or so. In this way you can add extra lines and so.

Thanks Hans, that is an excellent idea 

Marcus 

Piet, Patrick, Hans, and cog, thank you for your encouraging words. I can put a long post together of all the mistakes I have made, but this one is a "Big One". 

If I am off by a few mm than I can adjust it but if it is more than 5 mm, and I try to adjust it, it won't look right and at the scale of 1-50 cm it gets out of whack fast. 

The problem: 

The bottom of the Stern windows need to match up with the side windows and they didn't. The bottom of the side windows compared to the bottom of the Stern windows are 5 mm to high.  So I am leaving the side windows as is (instead of redoing that as well) and raising the area above the Stern windows by 5 mm. I don't want to widen the 45 degree area where the top of the rudder is. That looks weird (I tried that as well).  

The carvings will be as is and where there are gaps, I will add filler pieces. 

The carvings are going to be cherry. This wood carves nice. I am also keeping it simple. Non of the frilly stuff. I have broken many pieces by putting in too much detail and the piece I kept simple,  looks good. All of these pieces will be painted Yellow Ochre. 

Below is a piece that goes on the top of the Stern. Still needs to be sanded. 

Marcus 

Worked on the Stern and noticed that I was off by lots of mm. Tried to adjust that but it only got worse. So I trashed the Stern but saved the window frames. I spent a lot of time making them. So tomorrow I will re-cut the Stern, make windows and fit the frames. 

Marcus 

Glued the two sides and the front of the pavilion together. Most of the pavilion wall areas will be covered with carvings

Paint color:

Pavilion outside is cobalt blue. 

Inside is Prussian blue. 

Pavilion front is Prussian blue and the molding is cobalt blue. 

All window are titanium white. 

The window frames are yellow ochre. 

Inside of the railing is cadmium red, medium. 

Marcus 

Discarded the walnut and created the railing with poplar strips. 

Glued in the deck beams, redrilled the holes in the hull and jammed toothpicks with a bit of glue in them. 

Laminated 2 strips (1x6mm) of poplar together and glued on the outside of the toothpicks and 1 of the same strip on the inside of the toothpicks. Added scrap wood to fill in the gaps between the strips. 

It will be finished off with 2 x 2mm strips laminated on top totalling 8mm in height. Cut out the strips on the inside including the toothpicks where the pavilion sides are glued in. 

Out of 3mm thick balsa cut out the pavilion sides and laminated 1/64" veneer to the front of it. Dry fitted the sides and the windows and the front. 

My overall width of the boat is 6mm too narrow, so I had to sand down the sides of the pavilion front. Furthermore, my Stern piece is going to be a little higher than what the plans show. 

Now that this is all done, I will be working on the deck. The pavilion floor will be a couple of mm higher than the deck as the tiller goes between it. This is what the plans show. 

Marcus 

On 11/2/2017 at 4:29 PM, cog said:

Walnut is a b*tch to bend, even wet. You have to bend it further than the required bend to have it come close to the curvature you want. I had the same problem on the Dolphyn

I was going to use the walnut as it is the correct width (6mm ) plus a 2mm square dowel to make a total of 8 mm high railing. I am now going to use 4 x 2mm strips and veneer it on both sides. It will be painted Prussian blue. 

I can also pin down the walnut with the smallest insect pins I have and glue a 2 x 2mm strip on top of it. I have so much walnut in my possession. 

Marcus 

I had to rethink the railing. First time I soaked 2x6mm walnut and tried to bend it along the curve of the boat and ended up with a clamp forrest (Cog's definition). After the planks were dry they didn't keep their  curve. 

So this morning pulled out the saw and cut 2x2mm strips from Poplar _ Tulip tree, to be exact. Made a lot of these as I am bound to break a few. 

For the Utrecht I have been using a lot of Poplar. It has good bending characteristics, especially for bluff bows and it is cheap. 

Marcus