flying_dutchman2

Beautiful work. Another bluff bow ship, just like my Utrecht yacht. I see that you did your planking the way I did it. Planking a bluff bow can be a challenge. 

Marcus 

It is starting to look like a boat. Glued the stem, keel and post. Also drilled two holes for the stand. I will be using two pieces of brass tubing of equal length. I may cover the tubing with wood. 

Marcus 

7 hours ago, cog said:

Very nice crisp work Marcus

Thanks Carl. 

Finished the rudder and the post. Used cherry wood for both items and the brass pintels were attached with stainless steel insect pins cut to 3 mm in length.

Glued the pintels with CA on the rudder and post, once dry,  used a drill bit #79 (0.0145") to drill holes through the brass and partially through the wood. Then pressed the pins in. The pins are strong and they are great for this. 

Marcus 

19 hours ago, Omega1234 said:

Hi Marcus

 

Nice progress on the hull.  A nice round of applause for the windows, too.  They look great!

 

Cheers. 

 

Patrick

Thank you for the compliment , Patrick (this coming from the king of itty-bitty scale models). 

Marcus 

I am pulling up a chair as well. This looks like a great kit to build. Dutch kit made by Dutch company. You know it will be accurate. Hans (one of the owners) has built a fantastic model the Batavia. 

Marcus 

Wow, looks really good and like the details as well 

Marcus 

Hi. 

I have been procrastinating about this but it is time that I start this. The yacht Utrecht has many carvings. I have practiced some simple items from wood but with the many mistakes I have made I am no longer using wood. 

Purchased 1 lbs. of Super Sculpey and I have the following questions. 

Is it possible that I make,  say a rectangle piece of clay 1/4" by 2" by 1", bake that, and after it is cooled, carve it? 

As Chuck mentioned in an article in Ships and Scale is that you can bake a piece and keep adding to it. 

Does the new clay adhere to the baked clay just like that or how is it done? 

Thanks 

Marcus 

Finished 2nd layer of planking. Still needs to be sanded. The blue tape is to protect the planking on the back of the keel 

Also a dry set up of how the pavilion windows are placed. Here I use balsa as a template. 

Marcus 

45 minutes ago, cog said:

Overkill or not, it looks very good, Marcus

Thanks Carl.

Finished the second layer of planking. I am pretty satisfied with it. Planking flows nicely towards the back and the bluff bow looks good as well. 

The will sand it tomorrow, and upload some pictures. 

Still haven't done any serious carving. I keep procrastinating on this, but will eventually have to do it. 

Marcus 

Pavilion windows: This was a difficult project. I used sculpey clay to set the window frames in, aligning the sides. After lots of trail and error, redoing the clay and measuring the length and width of all three frames together, I was able to get it close. Used bits of clay on the top as well to keep it aligned. Used white glue on the inside. Once dried and removed from the clay I can sand them a bit and touch up the paint. I have seen other models on other sites of the way the windows are positioned and they are all straight where as I have them on an angle and slightly bend forward to follow the contour of the pavilion wall. Maybe overkill. 

Marcus 

Put the pavilion windows together, the frames are titanium white and the frames are yellow ochre. Besides a few minute paint touch ups they are done. In Dutch this is what is called 'priegel werk' (sp.) 

Marcus  

Got a little tired of all the planking so I started preliminary work on a Boyer which is one of the boats from 17th century Dutch merchant ships from Hoving & Emke. Scale 1:48. The hull is 51 cm long. At this scale I can add lots of details. The Stern looks a bit like a fluit and it has a bluff bow. Nice practice for when I want to build a fluit. 

Xeroxed the plans and going to look for wood in my wood pile. Once I get going I will start a new thread.  

Back to planking of the Utrecht. 

Marcus. 

Some more planking and I let the planks go naturally, no forcing, that means I have to install lots of stealers. Planking the bow is difficult. If it wasn't so bluff this would be so much easier. I've done several bluff bows so with every boat it gets easier. 

The masking tape is to hold the wet planks in place. 

Went to hobby lobby and bought 1 pound of Super Sculpey. Started playing around with it. 

Marcus 

10 hours ago, cog said:

Another clamp forrest. I like the toothpick idea!

'clamp forrest'? I like that. 

I will make holes in the deck as well by lining them up with the hull. Glue tooth picks or beech dowels in the holes. Glue one strip of wood on the inside of the dowel and one strip on the outside and fill the space between the strips with scrap wood. Cover the top and voila, I have a solid railing. That is the plan. But things can change. 

Marcus 

Next project is unconventional as I drilled holes in the hull next to the first layer of planking. Put toothpicks in the holes and took 2 pieces of moist wood (6mm x 1mm) and bend it around them. Pushed the wood down so it would follow the curve of the upper wale. Then used clamps and scrap wood to hold it down. 

Marcus 

Window are made and painted white and the frames are made of 1mm square dowel and painted yellow ochre. I enjoy making the little items. Also when I am not making the small items I am working on the second layer of planking on the boat, a tedious process as the wood needs to be exact, especially on the bow. 

Marcus 

Thanks for the likes. 

After looking through numerous books, models and not finding how planking is done in the Dutch Golden age decided to do the second layer of planking like the replica of the Utrecht. The book from Hoving and Emke show how it is done. Joints are called 'nibbed scarph joint'. 

Painted the pavilion front, stovepipes and the skylights. The little blue pieces on the dowels go on the pavilion. 

Making the window frames (1mm square dowel basswood). I have made all the frames like this. 

4 hours ago, cog said:

AS far as I can see it will be brush work ... no airbrush ...?

Yes and I don't do air brush. I don't have the equipment. Maybe one day. Part of the hull will be white and will use a can for that. The cat boat was done with cans. I am pretty good with the brush, I have more control. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes. 

Saturday I went shopping for paint. I was going to get all from Golden Acrylics, but that was out of my price range ($11.00-21.00). Even Lukas and Schmincke were very pricey ($8.00-16.00). So in Hobby Lobby I compared the pricey colors with colors from Hobby Lobby 's own colors - Master's Touch - and got those ($4.00). Same name, same color but cheaper. Then went to Michael's and did the same process. These colors are from Liquitex - Basics ($3.50). One color from Grumbacher ($4.27). Only one pricey color - Prussian blue - from Liquitex professional ($8.70). 

I painted all the colors on a piece of wood. They all go on thick and I can't tell the difference between pricey and cheap. The Golden Acrylics I do have I got cheap a few years ago. The cheap colors are 4 oz. and pricey ones are 2 oz. 

My list of paint is as follows:

Prussian blue 

Mars black 

Phthalocyanine blue 

Cobalt blue 

Yellow ochre

Raw sienna 

Chrome oxide green 

Cadmium red deep 

Cadmium red medium 

Flat white (still need to get) 

So far I painted the wales Mars black. 

Furthermore, I took a tip from Ed Tosti on glue. Mixed white Elmer's glue with brown paint. He uses pigment powder. Results are the same. So now when I glue the deck planks they already have a dark line between them. 

Marcus 

Thanks for the compliment, Geoff. It is coming along.

I finished the wales. Painted them there final coat. I love this acrylic paint from Gordon. Goes on thick and with a brush, I can spread it without streaks.

I am to the point where I need to get more colors. Gordon has some of the colors I need and available locally. Lukas and Schmincke acrylics I have to buy on the Net. 

Marcus 

Carl, 

Will get you pictures without the clamps. Working on them now. Sanding them and adding some filler 

Marcus 

While the lower wale was drying, worked on the Stern window frames. It is created from 1mm  square dowel. 

Glued the second layer of the top wale. Very frustrating. Broke two of them trying to make it fit in the bow. Where the stem goes there is 15 mm missing. Once all dry a piece  will be fitted, sanded and painted and I hope it is not that obvious. I made many wales just in case I broke some. 

Created the lower and upper wales  a while back and painted the top pieces black. I had some acrylics from past projects. The paint is Mars black #1200-2 series 1 from Golden acrylics. 

They will each be in two layers to build up the thickness. Upper wale is 4mm, lower wale is 6mm and the space between them is 8mm wide. Created a 'wale template' by laminating 2 pieces of walnut strips of 5mm thick and 8mm wide. Glued the first layer of both wales to the hull, put the template between them and lamented the second layer of the lower wale on top of the first layer. 

It is a bear to bend them without breaking them. On one side at the bow there is a small gap between the hull and the wale which I will fix. 

I am overall happy with all of the results. I have made lots of mistakes in the process and have learned from it by redoing it. 

Marcus 

Re sanded the keel area. Wasn't curved enough and took about 10 millimeters away (yes, that is a lot) and looks much better now.

Furthermore, created the deck beams with a curve and they are dry fitted. The little area of scrap wood is where the steps come down. Once steps are in place and you look into the area of the hull, I want it to look neat. I may just add a mirror with furniture. 

Marcus