flying_dutchman2

35 minutes ago, cog said:

Nice progress Marcus. Will you be making curtains (red and white checkered) too?

No curtains, but then again maybe. 

Where am I going to get checkered cloth in that scale? 

Next time someone is going to suggest figures. Thought about that too. Someone looking through the window. But what scale? Make one from sculpey? 

I do have a question for you. 

Page 5 #18 the penanten. I know what they are but where do they go? On the inside or outside? Looks like on the outside BUT is this permanent or temporary? 

The little squares on the bottom of the diagram of the mill on page 1 are the kruipalen (sorry, it is in Dutch). 

# Piet. If I am correct, didn't t you do lights in one of your models? Where would you put them in the mill? Something to think about. 

I was thinking with a couple of little solar panels, then I don't have to drag an electric cord around. 

Welcome aboard, Canute.  

Marcus 

Welcome Vivian, yes there is still plenty of room. 

Finished the bottom plate, foundation wall, frame studs, and the thatch roof templates. 

Cut the lexan for the doors, windows and windows in the thatch roof. 

Added door knobs for the doors and put together the windows that will be installed in the thatch roof. Once dry, sand a bit put primer on, paint all of it Van Dyk green and finalize it with lacquer.

The window shutters will be primed as well and they have a design painted on them. 

Marcus 

Welcome Piet and yes I saved a seat for you. Correct, so many ships. I plan to do all the scale 1:48 first and then a Fluit. I also have that book, Valkenisse, Retourschip 1717 with plans but without plans for masts, sails and rigging. This I need to research as I want to build her complete. 

Marcus 

In Holland, Michigan there is a Dutch grain mill. These Dutch Americans went to the Netherlands and purchased a mill, took it apart piece by piece, put it on a ship, shipped it to the USA, to Holland, Michigan, and put it back together. 

It is a working grain mill. The miller was sent to the Netherlands to learn how to run it. She had to get certified for this. It is a 2 hour drive from my house and when I am there I by the flour. 

Marcus 

3 minutes ago, cog said:

You could spray a satin water resistant "laquer" over the thatch. You should realise that thatch deteriorates over time, so if you do not treat it, it will get the authentic brownish look, passing into green (moss) Strangely enough, I've never seen a mill with moss on it's thatch ...

Good idea on the lacquer. So a thatched roof or not, I'll decide when I get there.

What I read about thatch roofs is that it is a specialty. There are tradesmen that do this. There are special tools for it and you have to prep the roof before you can thatch it. They also prep a fire retardant on it. 

I learned a lot from reading these sites. 

When I lived in Holland, I saw how they thatched a house ...... very interesting 

Marcus 

Especially for the Dutch people who speak Dutch and for everybody else for the pictures. 

This is a hobby site for anything people who want to build something. 

www.modelbrouwers.nl and in the search type 'molen'. 

Nice windmill projects. 

Did not find anything about thatch roofs. 

People who have model trains and want to make thatch roofs on their houses, this is what they do 

Get plastic grass and glue on roof. 

Use diluted acrylic paint and cover the grass 

Keep painting it on to get a thick layer but not so much that the grass dissappears. 

I will try this on a practice piece and leave it outside and see what the weather does to it. I am thinking it will deteriorate, so I stay with the original idea of using tile glue. 

Marcus 

Glued the bulkheads and spaces together. The boat is in three pieces and once dry, I will glue the whole thing together.

My woodworkers club has a free bee table. This is where members put stuff on which they no longer want and this month I took about 200 pieces of 12" x 1 x "1/4" cherry. Some have been used as spacers and the rest I will cut into planks of 1/16".

Marcus 

Welcome aboard, thibaultron, amateur and Jack. 

Jan: no interior, waterscrew or wheel. For my first garden windmill that is way over my head and the plans don't call for that. Will be looking for something like that in my next mill.

Thank you for the pictures of the different windmills. 

I plan to add the cloth on the frames. Joanne sewing store has nice heavy brown cloth. I saw that when I bought the sail cloth for the Utrecht.

This or next week I will get the 'outdoor' plywood in several thicknesses. I have created all the templates on heavy cardboard, so it is time to start it. 

I completed the two windows and doors and casements for the items. Still needs to be primed, painted and several coats of lacquer.  

The acrylic colors I am using are: titanium white, van Dyk green, medium cadmium red, dark cadmium red, cobalt blue, Mars black, yellow ochre, and orange. (some of the colors are the same as the Utrecht).  The instructions also call for chocolate brown powder. 

Once I get to the items that need painting, I will mention the color I am using. 

This project will be slow going as I am also building a Boyer, another scratch boat and spring, summer and fall I spent a lot of time outside. 

Marcus 

24 minutes ago, Piet said:

Quite a nice project Marcus and how are you planning to simulate the thatch siding?  Will you also make it working?

 

Cheers,

 

Thatch can be simulated with tile glue. The author describes this. Basically you need a thick paste that when dry is waterproof. 

There is a windmill website in the Netherlands that sell bundles of thatch. But a bit pricy. Or in the summer go to an unmowed field and cut the straw myself. 

It will be working.. This is why I need a copper tube. Probably put a LED light in it as well. 

Marcus 

Backer & druxey, hope you enjoy the built as much as I will be building the mill 

Marcus 

Patrick, thanks for joining. 

Marcus 

1 hour ago, gjdale said:

Looks like an interesting diversion Marcus. Think I’ll pull up a chair and follow along too.

The more the merrier. It is a diversion of ship building and it is related. 

Little known fact. There have always been windmills, but the Dutch took it a step further. They invented the 'saw mill'. Using the power of the wind attached to the saw and all of a sudden you had a powered saw. 

Cog has plans of a sawmill, called the Eenhoorn, which is located in Haarlem and up to this day it still runs. On there website they describe what you have to do when you have a log and want to have it sawed into planks.  I have seen this mill when I lived in the Netherlands. 

Marcus 

Osmosis; Thanks for joining. The project has some challenges. 

Note for everyone: I have a difficult time translating Dutch windmill lingo to English. I am using the Dutch to English Van Dale which is equivalent to the Oxford dictionary. So when I describe a part and I am using the Dutch name for it, it is because I can't find the English word for it. Maybe some of the Dutch modelers checking out this thread can help out. 

Thanks. 

Cog, 

Some of the measurements given on page 1, 2, and 3 are not the same as the actual drawings. Number 2 (stijlen) needs to be longer. I cut out one of the copies and dry fitted no. 6, 7 and 12 on it. No 6 template is too short (funderingsmuur), but the width given on page one 68mm is correct. 

What I am trying to explain is: don't assume the plans are correct. Some items are and some not. Compare and check. 

Marcus  

Besides building ships, I build windmills as well. This eight sided drainage windmill is a replica of one that is still in existence. When my father retired from the Dutch foreign service he worked in this mill as an accounting manager and gave me the plans of this garden windmill. 

Dimensions:

Roof height 28-1/2"

Max. Height 48-1/2

The plans, dimensions and how to build it are all in Dutch. So first I took all the measurements and recalculated them in inches so I know how much wood to purchase. Once I have all the wood I can go back to mm. 

The axel and other metal parts for the vanes I searched on Google, got a picture and recognized what it was so I know what to ask for in the store and I know my plumbing lingo. 

This goes for some of the wood as well. 

In Dutch M18, stands for multiplex watervast and the 18 is the thickness of the wood in mm. So in English the M is plywood for outdoors and 18 is about 3/4" thick. Did this with all the M's. Other wood involved is 1/8" Baltic birch and hardwood (any type). The outdoor plywood I can get at a big box store. I have plenty of hardwood in all sizes. 

Other parts are copper and aluminum tubing,  outdoor glue, tile glue to imitate the straw sides, glossy paint, primer, acrylic paints, etc. Waterproofing I am also using a spray can with that foam in it and lots of lacquer. 

Xeroxed two copies of the plans and started gluing templates on stiff cardboard and cut them out. 

Also cut out the 2 doors and 2 windows. Instead of using glass for the windows I'll use plexiglass. These will be painted van Dyk green. 

Marcus 

Set out the bulkheads and used spacers in between them. This whole setup is going to be glued together and the empty areas will be filled up with balsa. 

Compared to the Utrecht, this process has taken me about a days work. The Utrecht took weeks and I also didn't know what I was doing. 

Marcus 

Jan:

Yes, interesting to say the least. As you said, not much information on these boats. Ever since I got the book and plans I have been studying these ships and this one is very different. I also like that it is going to be a large model. 

Hans Peters:

Thanks for the interest. You need to put your wijdschip build on MSW. Doesn't matter if you are a beginner. We all started somewhere (gewoon doen). Furthermore, it is another ship I want to build and want to see your progress. 

With your trade in inland shipping you have an understanding of these ships. 

I know of NVM. I had a subscription on their magazine when I lived in Amsterdam. They have excellent plans. I'll check them out again. What is available in Europe is not always available in the US. I was very excited when SeaWatchbooks published the 17th century Dutch merchant ships. 

Marcus 

Cut out the bulkheads and starting to put then in a template. Made from 1/2" poplar. Yes, a bit thick, but it is hidden. 

Since I joined a woodworkers club, I am getting everybody's cut offs and then some. I received a lot of walnut in small sizes, so the Boyer will get a stem, keel, sternpost and rudder from walnut. Looks pretty good. Also 3 thick wales on each side will be walnut as well. Like the Utrecht, they will be laminated to get the thickness. I have succes with bending this wood. 

Marcus 

Beautifully done. Both the sails and the rigging look good. 

I pawned my Mary off to a friend who is an arborist, and in return he is going to take down a 70 year old Russian elm that got hit by lightning last year, (a $1500.00 savings for me). I built a display case for her as well.  

Marcus 

Ondras71, Mark and Jack, thanks for showing an interest. 

This build has the same rigging and sails as the Utrecht plus more. It has a mizzen mast with what looks like a lateen sail and the bow sprit has an added sail too. The stern is a bit pear shaped, similar to a Fluit, just not that extreme. At around 53 cm in length this will be a large model 

Marcus 

After my yacht, Utrecht, I decided to start building several 17th century Dutch merchant ships and the first one is a Boyer. The plans are from Ab Hoving and Cor Emke published by SeaWatchbooks. 

The Boyer was a small freighter, often seen in the entire North West European area. In literature it is suggested that the Boyer was developed from another ship, the 'heude', a Southern Dutch inshore vessel, which, in order to be able to sail the higher waves of the open sea (albeit in close vicinity of the coast), was buoyed up (heightened)in the sides; hence its name. 

Like every ship type, the Boyer is a compromise, which by its little draught and relatively large loading capacity was able to sail both at sea and on shallow waters. For the former, a deep keel performs best, for the latter the flat bottom. The solution for the Boyer was finally found in the application of leeboards, which came into use in the second half of the 16th century. They lessened the drift, allowing at the same time for a flat bottom. 

The Boyer could perform both inshore and close to the coast and was seldom larger than 22 meters. Its characteristics are the round shape with little deadrize and round bilges, upper planking with much tumble-home ending in the helm port transom, a curved stem and a set of heavy wales, emphasizing the handsome sheer. 

They sailed close to the coast and could reach cities that were situated relatively far inland, like Berlin, Cologne, Warsaw and Breslau. Wine, fruit, hemp, pitch, tar, wool cloth and spices were the lighter cargos often shipped by boyers.  

Note: this is going to be a slow going build as at the same time I am building an 8 sided drainage windmill, scale 1:15. It is a replica of a windmill still in existence. 

Thanks for reading. 

Marcus 

On 3/14/2018 at 10:09 AM, Backer said:

Looks great Marcus.
Congratulations on your first scratch build.

 

Mooi gedaan 

 

Bedankt. 

Marcus 

Piet, 

Those guns are looking good especially at that size. Excellent workmanship. 

Marcus 

Patrick ; Thanks for the compliment. I am all about the details (just like you). 

Carl : Thanks. I built mostly Dutch ships. There are so few people doing that. So if I built them other modelers might follow suit. 

Mark: Thank you. 

Piet: I am glad you enjoyed the built. Will save you a seat for the Boyer built and if you are interested a seat voor the windmill built.

Marcus  

I finished the Utrecht, this weekend and she turned out pretty good for my first scratch boat. I want to thank Jan (especially your pictures) , Piet and Carl for the suggestions. 

Next boat is a Boyer, from the 17th century Dutch merchant ships book, this will be slow going as the next 3 seasons my time is spent mostly outside. At the same time I am going to build an eight sided polder mill (achtkantige poldermolen voor de tuin). I will post progress on that build in the thread for non-ships. 

I want to thank everyone for following my build, and before you leave the room, please stack up the chairs in the corner. 

Marcus 

Some more pictures of flag making. 

1. Here I removed the handles and all you have left is the flag itself. 

2. Here I lightly score the flag to get a crease. 

3. The crease is made, the string is laid into the crease and with little glue shut it. 

Let it dry and install it. 

Marcus