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Everything posted by Keith Black
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The line I'm speaking of is right of ladder's second most upper rung. Andy, I've seen morning lines squeeze the corner dolphin tops on the dock I was standing on till they made the dolphin tops explode.I got peppered with splinters pretty good, luckily I didn't get one in the eye. Granted it was an extreme case but I can't agree regarding running a mooring line (with load at angle) through a fairlead as a general practice.
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Andy The below is a photo of the USS Tennessee showing the poop deck port side mooring line. I'm not saying the Herzogin Cecilie was sent up the same way but to haul a mooring line to a capstan at an angle through a fairlead sounds a bit sketchy, IMHO. Once the load was on the line I can envision that fairlead being ripped from the deck.
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John, I still don't think there was a designed use for the fairleads. IMHO they were there just in case a line had to be run over the poop edge. I know you said the owners were cheap but what could a fairlead have cost back in the day? If they were penny pinchers they were also conservatives and i'm sure they weighed the cost of a couple of fairleads being there versus the deck damage cost due to them not being there.
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Thank you to everyone for the kind comments, the likes and for following along. Thank you, Gary. The roofing took a couple of days to get off the ground. I had to mentally run through every conceivable way of building the roof noting the pitfalls of each method. i was going to try making the roof removable but that failed when thinking through the "how to" process. Yesterday I finally started cutting wood. There's no way in God's green earth I could have made successful progress without the RP cutter. I started with the cable tower. This engine shed sits on a 1.6 x 2.0 inch footprint. The first floor and cable tower opening are a combined 0,80 x 2.0 inches. The pitched roof is 1.6 inches at the peak. The engine shed is very small and very fragile and is a bit like working on an empty eggshell but the more roof structure I add the less fragile it becomes. Then the back gable end was made. This is where I left off for the evening. . I will have to extend the boiler stack. Thank you to everyone for your support. keith
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K, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. One of the better set of sails, IMHO, was made by Bruma for his Cutty Sark build. His sail making starts on page 6 post #180.
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Bob, the Duchess is really coming along nicely. So sorry to hear you and the crew are sick with Covid. Isn't this the second time for you folks? I think Goober and Pile brought it home after a night on the town shore leave.
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- vanguard models
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Thank you to everyone for the kind comments, the likes, and for following along. Eberhard, thank you for taking the time to explain your process/ A lot of very good useful information, thank you again. Thank you, Dan. I'll PM you regarding wood as I do see a need in the not too distant future. As far as a second pile drive is concerned, I've had such a good time making this one that once the opportunity presents itself I'll be ready to make another one. It would be a improved dual cylinder dual drum Donkey engine. The Alamo! Kidding you, Tom. Seriously, thank you for taking the time to draw that up. Not much happening today as it's a day of recover after a night of pool league play. I'll make my way upstairs after supper and start gathering wood for the roof and making the jig. Thank you to everyone for the support. Keith
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Grant, what a drag. I feel for you and I hope fair skies and clear sailing are just over the horizon.
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- live steam
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I've been having a discussion with Rik Buter, @Rik Buter on his build log (see link below) about my paint which isn't fair to Rik so I'd like to carry on that conversation here. Rik does an absolutely amazing job using washes and suggested I would get better results using thinner paint. At 1:120 scale the pieces are so small for them to be noticeable I apply a heavy coat of paint. I've messed about some trying washes and those small pieces don't stand out as they should, at least IMHO. I said to Rik that showing a dirty area on a piece I had to apply heavy black paint. An example of that is the water tank ladder photos in post # 224. There are two close up shots showing where I indicated grunge with black paint and one photo taken a little further back. In that photo the black doesn't stand out because the ladder is so small that at normal viewing distance it's barely noticeable, IMHO The wood used also comes into play. At times I have to mix lighter woods with darker woods to make a piece. In that caseI don't think a wash or thinner paint would work. I'm open to comments, if this ole dog can be taught new tricks I'm all ears.
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Joe, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Hi folks, another newbie from the UK
Keith Black replied to Graham_T's topic in New member Introductions
Graham, welcome to MSW. Hoping all goes well with your Jolly Boat build. Glad to have you aboard. -
Rick, the piece in #230 was a test piece with at least four coats of different colors which has since been put in the bin. Scale and materials determine how to paint a subject, IMHO. At 1:120 I have to apply paint pretty thickly as normally the pieces are small and a wash effect would be lost. Highlighting a dirty area needs to be a thick black (or brown) or it just doesn't show. Make sense?
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Thank you to everyone for the kind comments and the likes. I'm pleased with the color and am glad you like it. Thank you for your suggesting that I needed to find a better color than Burnt Sienna. Thank you, John. Thank you, Rick. Thank you, Eberhard. There's lots to love about the common workaday ships and boats. Thank you. I hope your new cutter meets your expectations. Thank you, Brian. Thank you, Richard. Thank you, Pat. Yesterday was a day of taking measurements and planning on how to build the roof and drum line tower. It'll be a couple of days before I'm able to start on that part of the shed. Thank you so much for your support. Keith
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