Keith Black

thank you, Glen. I wish I could use washes like Rik, Eberhard, Gary, (@FriedClams), and others. I'm envious of their abilities and they make their work look so nice but I don't see that technique working at small scales. Someday I'm gonna build something at a big scale!

John, Stephen Allen, @Stephen Allen posted this link to a steam winch that is similar to yours. https://www.hatchwellantiques.co.uk/stock/model-steam-winch-detail

I've been having a discussion with Rik Buter, @Rik Buter on his build log (see link below) about my paint which isn't fair to Rik so I'd like to carry on that conversation here. Rik does an absolutely amazing job using washes and suggested I would get better results using thinner paint. At 1:120 scale the pieces are so small for them to be noticeable I apply a heavy coat of paint. I've messed about some trying washes and those small pieces don't stand out as they should, at least IMHO. I said to Rik that showing a dirty area on a piece I had to apply heavy black paint. An example of that is the water tank ladder photos in post # 224. There are two close up shots showing where I indicated grunge with black paint and one photo taken a little further back. In that photo the black doesn't stand out because the ladder is so small that at normal viewing distance it's barely noticeable, IMHO The wood used also comes into play. At times I have to mix lighter woods with darker woods to make a piece. In that caseI don't think a wash or thinner paint would work. I'm open to comments, if this ole dog can be taught new tricks I'm all ears.

Golly, I don't want to hijack your log with my painting issues. If you'd like we can continue this conversation on my log, okay?

Joe, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.

Graham, welcome to MSW. Hoping all goes well with your Jolly Boat build. Glad to have you aboard.

Rick, the piece in #230 was a test piece with at least four coats of different colors which has since been put in the bin. Scale and materials determine how to paint a subject, IMHO. At 1:120 I have to apply paint pretty thickly as normally the pieces are small and a wash effect would be lost. Highlighting a dirty area needs to be a thick black (or brown) or it just doesn't show. Make sense?

Thank you to everyone for the kind comments and the likes. I'm pleased with the color and am glad you like it. Thank you for your suggesting that I needed to find a better color than Burnt Sienna. Thank you, John. Thank you, Rick. Thank you, Eberhard. There's lots to love about the common workaday ships and boats. Thank you. I hope your new cutter meets your expectations. Thank you, Brian. Thank you, Richard. Thank you, Pat. Yesterday was a day of taking measurements and planning on how to build the roof and drum line tower. It'll be a couple of days before I'm able to start on that part of the shed. Thank you so much for your support. Keith

Jay, my condolences to you and yours. Please know we completely understand and that we'll be here when you're able to get back to modeling.

Congratulations on completing the model, Chris. She should take centerstage for display. Speaking of display, is she going into a case?

Jim, the Tennessee also had fairleads at the fore edge of the poop. Tennessee's mizzen was located on the main deck so I don't think it had anything to do with rigging lines. It could very well be a case where the fairleads were placed at the edge of the poop as insurance in case a haul line was needed on the upper deck?

Jim, your restoration work is a huge improvement and a very commendable effort. Is it possible to take a overhead photo of the Donkey engine showing details? TYIA

Thank you to everyone for the kind comments and the likes. thank you, Glen. Thank you, Keith. I think the view into the shed is going to be just about the right amount. I didn't want the Donkey engine to be the star of the show, I wanted all the elements to be somewhat in balance. Thank you, Tom. The shed color is already determined but thank you for the suggestion. Thank you, Phil. Thank you, Mark. I noticed your absence, I hope all is well. Thank you, mcb. Yes, this little project is moving along rather nicely. I sent Don at Tichy an email stating how pleased I was with the quality of the windows. And yes, the boiler is going to be wood fired. Your next question is where's the woodpile? Well...imagine stacked wood on the inside wall opposite the water tank. If there were a woodpile there, once the roof is on, you wouldn't be able to see it. During this build I've kept all the cutoffs and scrap bits of wood to make a woodpile. Once the roof is on, I'll be the only one to know if I included a wood pile? I got the shed painted, rear door attached less hinges, winnow glazing installed in the windows and the windows installed in the shed, and resolved the friction drum line issue. I have the Donkeyman holding the line and drooped over his forearm. I didn't get the front doors made, painted, and hung today, that'll be tomorrows task. This view wasn't planned in the beginning of the build, it wasn't till I made the water tank and knew the location of the backdoor that I realized one would be able to see the Donkeyman looking through the backdoor.. I think it's a pretty neat unexpected view but one does have to get down eyeball level with the table surface to be able to peer into the shed. This is one of the few times my camera has cooperated, stupid camera. Friction drum line resolution A heartfelt thank you to each of you for your support. Keith

My thoughts exactly. Great photos, Eberhard. It's such a neat little model, are you putting her under glass and displaying her at your home?

Goober and Pile are probably poling the Duchess with those new mast Bob made.

Great opportunity, JD. Hopefully it wasn't all measuring and that you had time to relax and daydream.

The companionway hatch turned out swell, Rick. Your use of washes is great, something I need to learn to do here shortly.

Thank you, John. For me, the good thing about 1:120 is I don't have to do a bunch of mental gymnastics figuring out the size to make something. Measuring with a six inch machinist ruler a tenth of an inch equals a foot, half a tenth is six inches, a little more than a tenth is three inches, and a little less is nine inches. The problem is calibrating the fingers to work at that scale. I've worked at 1:120 for so long I've learned a lot of little tricks to help the fingers get the job done. The one problem I really regret is 1:120 doesn't allow me to include all the detail I'd like to. That's the learning curve, what can I include and nope, I can't do that.

Very nice.

Thank you to all for the kind comments and the likes. Thank you, Gary. My order arrived yesterday and I'm very pleased. The windows are spot on and of good quality. I've yet to try the glazing as I need to paint the windows first which is the next step. Thank you, Keith and Eberhard. I think people have a need to make things with their own hands, we've been doing so since we learned to make fire. IMHO 3D printing is going to enable modelers to make even more believable builds hence forth. 3D printing is the future. They're now 3D printing brain tissue for God's sake! https://cureepilepsy.org/news/revolutionary-3d-printed-brain-tissue-mimics-human-function/#:~:text=A team of University of,vertically%2C the researchers went horizontally. I haven't posted in five days which is an eternity with this little build. As mentioned above I received the windows, I also received the Vallejo red paint. A big thumbs down on the paint, way too orange. The shed walls are made and glued together but are not glued to the deck. I still need to paint and glaze the windows and paint the shed before installing the windows. As far as the windows go, they're four over four which was the most common of the time period. All the windows in our 1869 house are four over four. The windows are probably more suited for a house instead of a shed but the length will allow a little more light into the shed once the roof is on. Regarding the roof, it'll be a pitched roof with a drum line tower opening. The shed's rear door is about 0.38 inches, the two front doors will each be 0.48 inches open with card hinges. The friction drum line story is still a mystery. I might have the line loosely wrapped around the Donkeyman's arm or have the line tied around a cleat just inside the left front shed door. What I do know is, this 3 x 6 inch footprint is starting to get a wee bit cramped! The next phase is to get the inside (white) and outside (Apple Barn Red) of the shed painted, the windows and doors installed, and the friction drum line story finalized. Please excuse the next two out of focus photos of the Steam Donkey inside the shed but it does give an idea of how much inside the shed is going to be visible The rear door is temporally set in the jamb. I need to make card hinges then the door will be opened to the tank side. Thank you to everyone for taking the time to visit and lending your support. Keith

The 11th and 12th commandments of the ship builder's bible..........11th, Thou shalt not covet thy neighbors trunneling and the 12th, Thou shalt not trunnel lest ye be made numb witted.

I bought the RP cutter a couple of weeks ago based on the review by James. What a great tool and what a joy to use. Thank you, James.

Jacques is right, Paul. The Sharpie is not only fantastic, it's fantastically beautiful! Very very nice. I'm truly impressed.

Glen, your willingness to complete Carson's father's model is the embodiment of kindness. You've set a high bar all us MSW/NRG members , thank you for being you.

Mark, welcome to MSW. I know it's hard to stop and take photos but we'd love to see your work. Please reconsider and start a build log. Glad to have you aboard.