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Keith Black

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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. John, welcome to MSW. I like clocks as well and keep a few singing along merrily. Glad to have you aboard.
  2. And that's why I wasn't impressed. Had it been totality here in out little patch of heaven I may have felt differently.
  3. Great story, Bob. Glen, great photos but I think the eclipse was way over hyped. Maggie and I sat on the front steps with our I can't see a bloody thing glasses and observed 98.11% totality in our area. I'm much more impressed by comets.
  4. I was trying to save Micha from diving down the rabbit hole at this point but it's something he'll encounter soon enough. At 77 I'm a pretty old school kinda guy but I used poly in antique furniture restoration long before I could spell model ship. The biggest plus for me is the protection poly provides, I don't get that sense of protection using shellac. It comes down to personal preference from product usage.
  5. For what application? Number one I'd toss in the bin, number two I've never used and have no experience, so it's three (Google Titebond II and III and see what the internet reports about the differences) or four, coming back again to the question, what application?
  6. Micha, let me clarify a bit here. If you use CA to glue a eye or twisted wire stropped block into the deck, mast, or yard, you'll break something trying to pull it out once dry. If you CA glue a wood edge (pilot house base as an example) to a wood deck, you could pop off the pilot house with a rap to the side or by placing an Xacto chisel blade tip at the edge of the pilot house base and get it to release with a gentle rap. Using PVA wood to wood it's pert near impossible to make it let go without using copious amounts of isopropyl alcohol. You use Acetone to release objects glued with CA. I haven't had any luck gluing painted surfaces no matter what type of glue used unless the painted surfaces have been sealed with polyurethane. I don't have any trouble using CA to glue poly sealed painted surfaces. I don't know if PVA would work as I've never tried but my wee brain thinks it wouldn't. As with all methods suggested by us, you need to experiment/test on scrap pieces using our suggestions and see what works best for YOU.
  7. Regarding the broken pieces....this is where I would NOT use CA. In this case I would use a yellow PVA. Once the glue is added and the pieces fitted together, wrap the whole with Saran Wrap, then add supports on either side and clamp. If you don't use the Saran Wrap you WILL permanently glue the supports to the broken pieces once the glue dries.
  8. I don't like Gorilla because it foams, that just disturbs the heck out of my Inner Tao.
  9. Simon, the one positive thing about working in the garden is the amount of natural light is so much better to see by, By 4 legged friends I assume cats? If it is cats they are such little dunderheads when it comes to wanting to be a part of whatever is going on. Not an easy task cutting those by hand, hats off to ya.
  10. There is no problem with fossilized ivory both walrus and mammoth tusk. Hippo and warthog ivory is also legal to own in the USA at this time. The Humane Society has given notice to sue the US Fish and Wildlife Service to protect Hippos under the Endangered Species Act, see the below. https://www.humanesociety.org/news/legal-action-launched-protect-hippos-under-us-endangered-species-act
  11. The trade in elephant ivory is one of things that at some point mankind will have to answer for. The elephant ivory trade is one of the saddest chapters of our species. Having said the above, the trade in walrus ivory is another matter. Fossil walrus ivory is fairly plentiful (I owned a fossilized walrus tusk once upon a time) and is legal to buy and sell. My wife being Alaska native allows us to posses walrus ivory obtained after the 12-21-1972 law. We have several pieces both pre and post Marine Mammal Protection Act. Very few walrus are harvested annually for their ivory as there are numerous walrus found along the beaches after being killed by polar bears, plus harvesting a live walrus is a Herculean task. If one wanted to carve walrus ivory using fossilized ivory presents the least amount of issues. WALRUS (non-fossil)- Regulated by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service under the 1972 Marine Mammal Protection Act. Raw walrus ivory predating the Dec. 21, 1972 law, tusks bearing the Alaska state walrus ivory registration tags or post-law walrus ivory that has been carved or scrimshawed by an Alaskan native (Eskimo) are legal to buy, possess, and sell. Raw walrus ivory obtained after 12/21/72 is not legal to buy or sell unless both parties are Eskimo (it is legal to own). A $30 export permit is required to ship walrus ivory or oosik (legal as per above) out of the United States. FOSSIL WALRUS IVORY- Not restricted as it pre-dates the 1972 cutoff, it is legal to buy and sell anywhere within the United States. Shipping ivory or oosik (fossil walrus penal bone) out of the U. S. requires a $30 permit. https://scrimshop.com/shopcart/items/materials2.html https://www.scrimshawcollector.com/product-category/raw-ivory/fossil-walrus/
  12. There's a huge gap of wood model ship kits available from the 1860's to 1900. That period of transition from sail to steam, cannon to gun, and wood to iron clad is largely ignored. I guess it's driven by market demand but I still say provide the option, I think manufactures would be surprised.
  13. Ian, there's not much out there. The first link is a bit interesting but nothing like the USS New Ironsides in the 2nd and 3rd links. The 2nd link is for reference only as it's a commercially completed model. The only model I could find is a paper model, see 3rd link. Paper models are way out of my league but you might be able to use it as a guide to scratch build? https://www.ebay.com/itm/185379792994?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=185379792994&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1019476&poi=&campaignid=20389314120&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9317278&merchantid=7873604&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh82kovZ-0aeV3vEPRWJZ2h0L&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-e79pL2whQMVDU5HAR2PTgBzEAQYCiABEgKFsfD_BwE https://www.modelshipmaster.com/products/civil_war/New-Ironsides.htm https://ecardmodels.com/product/1-200-union-uss-new-ironsides-paper-model
  14. Personally I dislike all types of Gorilla glue. I use CA glues brands Loctite or my preferred brand the original Super Glue. CA glues have a tube shelf life, it's important that if you use a CA that it is relatively new or as new as possible because its holding power diminishes with age (don't we all). You don't what to use a CA glue that's over a year old if possible just to be on the safe side. A lot of modelers feel using CA is a sacrilege and use a PVA yellow wood glue. There are good and bad points to using PVA or CA glues. There are numerous logs discussing the different glues and their benefits. Micha, search key words 'What type of glue' and you'll find those discussions.
  15. Ah, you're not a young man but you've got plenty of years left to you. I started this crazy ship modeling hobby when I was 69, I wish I had started at a much younger age. There's a certain amount of information and knowledge one needs to absorb to be semi successful in the hobby. If you come late to the party as I did it's very hard to reach a high level of accomplishment, now at 77 I have to be satisfied with the fact that I'll never be much better than I am today. That's why it's so important to get kids interested and involved in ship modeling when they're young so they'll have the chance to become masters and more importantly, teachers. We each must do what we can to pass the torch no matter how small the flame.
  16. The Jenny looks spot on with the tattered sails and added snow, the penguin also likes it.
  17. If you want to learn ship building techniques and do the best job possible on your project, research is vital and often requires more time than actual modeling.
  18. Micha, the best to you on your first build. I'll follow along on your new journey.
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