Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Mai Tai time in the big house is the signal for the cows to start looking for weak points in the fence. -
That's where the dirt goes. Weathering/washing is an art I'm far from mastering but I do enjoy the learning curve.
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James, Archer Transfers here in the US sells rivet transfers, see the below link. I have no clue what it would cost to ship a sheet to the UK? https://www.archertransfers.com/search?q=rivet&_pos=2&_psq=rivets&_ss=e&_v=1.0
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Congratulations, Glen! Gorgeous work, she looks stunning.
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Tally Ho by AntonyUK
Keith Black replied to AntonyUK's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
No Pancho?- 18 replies
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Very nice results on the start of the deck planking, Mark.
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That last photo is a grand sight, it's the best angle from which to view a ship IMHO.
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Eric, it could have been a water source for nothing more than a track pan?
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Yorick, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Eric, no forgiveness necessary. If you've got pertaining historical photos, please, always feel free to post them. I don't think it's a pile driver per se, I think it's some sort of floating well rig? Note the threaded pipe casing on deck. The pipe is in short sections (that's why the pile driver is so short), maybe 6, 8 feet at the most. Too short for oil or gas and you wouldn't be drilling for drinking water in the middle of the river, my guess is they were setting pipe to get water to the tracks. Whatever its purpose it is a cute little bug, you need to put that in your train layout.
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No, it's Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Birchwood Casey Blue is for a blue finish.
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I like the RP a lot. The only issue it's limited for long lengths. If I was cutting long lengths I'd have to design a stop for doing so. I've used mine enough to trust it way more than me and a miter saw. Anymore I just blow and go.
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You mean, this is as good as it gets?
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I have a RP slicer and I think it's much more precise than a miter saw for repeated cuts requiring the same length, IMHO.
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Jacques, rule of thumb, the higher up the smaller the block. The blocks you have will work out great because all blocks were not the same size. Bigger on the bottom and smaller at the top.
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Incredible work, Siggi. I hope the painter is in leg irons back on the Tiger.
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Nice work, Paul. Slicers are the only way to go, I can't believe how long it took me to see that lightbulb come on.
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Thank you, Keith. I first drill my holes where the chain ends will attach. I start with a piece of chain that's a few links longer than the correct length. I then make the top eye at the end of the chain and trim the eye shank to match the top hole depth. I work from the top down when making the chain length that way I don't have to fight gravity. I run a piece of wire between the links (bending the two ends downward) where I think will be the bottom end link is. With the top eye in the top hole (unglued) I pull the chain as taunt as possible at the center of the bottom hole holding onto the wire I had run between the links. The chain is usually too long, I note how many links too long and run another piece of wire through those links cutting away the chain where the first piece of wire was run. I repeat this process till I have the correct chain length. I then make the eye in the bottom link, cut the eye shank to the correct length, pray, and test fit the chain. Occasionally I'll cut the chain too short and have to start over with the top eye but 95% of the time I can sneak up to the correct length by trimming away the bottom links. I hope the above makes sense, I'd like to add photos but I can barely get this three handed job done with the two hands I have let alone take photos. As I said, it's a tedious process and I wish I knew a better way. If anyone has a better method I am all ears!
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Funny but not funny if you're the one on the receiving end.
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If this was my problem I'd CA a piece of thin plywood (any type of thin wood) on the backside of the opening then cut the plank to fit. It may not be kosher but it fills the hole.
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Kurt, I think oxygen plays as important part in the blackening process as the solution itself. Soaking pieces in the solution is too much and a paint brush maybe too much as well plus it's hard to rub with a paintbrush. I know rubbing with a Q-tip works like the bee's knees.
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Removal might create a crater but could be easily filled with a sawdust and CA mixture. Until the eyebolt eye broke off it was a very nice clean looking piece and I know you hate messing about with it.
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Ian, we're both of that "we don't need no stinkin' directions" school of thought. I forgot to mention that I placed the parts to be blackened on a folded paper towel to absorb any excess blackening solution and once rinsed in water I buffed them with a clean paper towel before repeating the process. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. Thank you, Eberhard. Oh, how very true!
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