Keith Black

Glen, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.

@clearway @Glen McGuire @mbp521 @mtaylor @Rick310 thank you for your kind comments and thank you to all for the likes. I'm so accustomed to working at this scale I forget when I say it's "just too small a space to do so" that if I don't give you the viewer a reference it's hard for you to appreciate the size. I've placed a penny at the base so you know exactly how small small is. While doing the work around the mast base, at times I felt like I was trying to adjust Lincoln's bowtie. My apologies for not including this photo in my previous post. Once again, thank you to all.

Thank you Brian, Phil, Eric, Eberhard, and Denis for kind comments and thank you to all for the likes. I've finished adding the blocks rigging, and belaying the gun tackle lifts. I also finished rigging and tying off one Luff tackle (second photo shows it best) to the bitt on the port side for the mizzen top stay. The work space around the base of the main mast to add blocks, rig and belay is a .5 inch square. I didn't add rope coils as it's just too small a space to do so. I tried to do so on the mizzen, not only was the space too small but the coils looked lake a cowboy's lasso, i can't get the thread to hang in a natural manner and I think it's better to let the viewers imagination fill in the blanks than to add what would look like the dog's lunch. I've decided to wait to tie off the top and topgallant braces till after the channel deadeyes and shrouds are rigged. It will be awhile till I post again as I need to strop and lash those 28 deadeye pairs before the next photo op. Thank you to all for following along..........a stropping we will go, a stropping we will go. hi ho the merry o, a stropping we will go.

This is the exact reason I'll never attempt SIB's because I know full well what the outcome would have been had this been I......'broken bottle isle nine, cleanup, isle nine" Javelin, I'm rooting for your success because it's a neat little model and a unique idea.

SD, limit spending to no more than a couple of hundred bucks for a kit and get knee deep in it. Work till you either finish or get frustrated enough that you need to stop. If the latter happens, take a break. Look through as many build logs as you have time and learn from what you observe. Buy a couple of books and add to your knowledge Then go back to whatever model you were working on and try to finish it. If you can't finish it, put it aside for a couple of years and try again. If at that point you can't finish it, chuck it in the bin and find a hobby that makes you want to get out of bed in the morning. life is too short to saddle yourself with a hobby that is drudgery. Model ships are joy to view and for some a joy to build but not all people who enjoy looking at model ships are model ship builders.

Not that I've seen every model ship ever made but I've never seen anyone add a water groove before. I see the logic for doing so, thank you for adding to my limited knowledge.

LP2, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.

Thank you for including us on your wonderful journey, Keith, every post was a treasure. Enjoy your time off.

Eberhard, I think it looks great.

I certainly could be, it's been know to happen on many occasions in the past.

Because of the bow shape and the round gun casements (one fore and two on both port and starboard sides near deck edge) I think it's an early pre WWI. I'm guessing and I could be dead wrong. Later gun casements morphed into more rectangular shapes and were set further inboard. It would help greatly if the pieces were placed on the ship's deck in best guess fashion, photographed, and posted.

Nice work, Scotty.

Mark, she's looking grand.

Ras, have you tried spray painting a piece of wood or anything with that paint you used on the seat to see if it's the paint or painting on rubber that's the problem? Were I you and I had nothing to lose I'd first try heating the seat with a hairdryer and if that didn't help I'd smear a very thin layer of Vaseline on the seat, maybe that will keep the paint from sticking to your fingers. If you had some powder or dust the same color you could could dust with same to eliminate the stickiness.

Guy, this is all I could find, it's for both volumes but it's supposedly in stock. Dang spendy, ouch. https://www.abebooks.com/Frigates-Royal-Navy-Naiad-Frigate-1797/30781213482/bd duh...

Glen, my friend, you nailed it, ab so lute ly nailed it! Of all your SIB's and their presentations this is by far and away the best. I was a bit worried you wouldn't be able to pull off making the water dynamic enough to match the scene. Obviously I need not have worried, the wave actions you've created brings the whole scene to life and the drop is the pièce de résistance. To say I'm impressed is an understatement, to say I am in awe is getting there. I don't know what you're gonna do for an encore but if you ever beat this, you be the Magic Man.

Denis, I've pulled up a chair to follow your journey as steam era ships are my favorite. Are you going to glass the hull?

Dave, they're covered openings that lead to the coal bins alongside the boilers below. Each scuttle leads to a particular coal bin. The coal tenders would tie-up alongside the ship they were serving and off load coal via shoots through the scuttle opening. If interested you could visit my Tennessee build, my work on replicating the coal scuttles is post #169. Photo of the Tennessee, you can see the aft coal scuttles at the left feet of the second and third sailors with drawn swords.

I've never had great success painting rubber except those times where I've accidentally got paint on rubber and of course it refuses to come off. Ras, in your case I'd keep after it with the paint thinner. There are some eco friendly paint removers that are also gentle on your hands. I think they're all about the same. See the below link on painting rubber. https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/how-to-paint-rubber

Thank you to all for the likes and for following along. Brian, on the mizzen I mounted the cross jack after the channel shrouds and ratlines were rigged. I'm planning on following that same sequence on the main but as I add rigging to the main I'm beginning to think the top yard's brace lines may interfere when I add the channel shrouds. I may slacken the top's brace lines where I'll have a bit more hand movement freedom as I work and then once the shrouds are run then I'll be able to tie off top's brace lines to the bitts. I didn't have a space issue running the mizzen's channel ratlines and I don't foresee that as an issue on the main. I ran the mizzen to main backstays after running the top and topgallant brace lines. I won't make that same mistake when I rig the fore. Great score on the Workmate! Bob, thank you so very much for saying that but in actuality, you're ahead of me. Because of the 1:120 scale I can cheat because of the simple fact that unless under very close examination one can't see where I've cheated. My blocks are not tied nor are they eyed to the yards or mast, a hole is drilled and then they are glued in place. Because of the scale, you can't really see that's the case. I can't seize line for beans so I cheat. I use a clinch knot to tie lines to blocks and once again, because of the scale, it looks close enough so that I'm able to get away with it. The deadeyes are too small to strop with line and seize as is the normal practice in ship modeling. I cheat, I strop the shroud end of the top deadeye with 28 GA anodized wire leaving a becket where I can attach the shroud line. I run a single shroud line to each pair of deadeyes not a looped seized line for two pair of deadeyes as is the correct way. Once again, due to scale I get away with it. If I were to take on a model at 1:48 or even 1:76 scale I'd have to learn how to rig correctly and I'd also have to get a new left hand because after my stroke in 2017 my ole lefty doesn't work as well as it should. But let me say, I THANK GOD that its works at all! If my left hand had remained paralyzed I couldn't work on model ships or play pool or do work around the house or do much of anything. I thank God almost daily for the use of my left hand and even though my finger dexterity is limited, I do have the ability to get away with a bit of rigging cheating. For me, knowing the correct way has to be good enough. Realistically, I think I'm forever doomed to 1:120 scale because of my physical limitations. And that's how the sausage gets made in my shipyard, Bob. As I said, you're doing better than I.

Those are coal scuttles.

Bob, you're doing a bang up job on the Mayflower and your rigging looks great.

*Keith chokes back gag reflex, considers all options including joining the French Foreign Legion to escape dining on Slipper Souffle

Mark, the Jylland is coming along nicely. Enjoy the time with your family, those together times are far too few.