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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Sailing off the bench....... I'll need to focus on building my wife a hair washing station for her in house salon....so I'll be at that for a bit. Happy new year everyone...... Rob
  2. Here are some pix of the stepped mast from several angles. Got to let it dry for a couple of hours before I begin to focus on deciphering the many lines and getting the correct ones belayed on the spider band. I'm enjoying the speed of the build at this point...I truly think this technique of nearly finishing each mast before stepping....makes the completion look as if it's not years off....... Rob
  3. First, I appreciate all the fine comments and likes...Thanks. After some final touch-ups and some changes to the main fiferail.....I stepped the mast.
  4. Added the rest of the upper topsail rigging. Just a few touch-ups and some detailing left. I'll step the mast..then begin the main shrouds. I have to swing the main mast port/starboard to make this the simplest it can be and that means I cannot fix the lower topsail until that work is complete. Have a fine evening. Rob
  5. After the sail was dry, I shackled up the sheets and reefed in the clews. Still have to add the reef points, the leach lines, clew lines and the downhauls. But I'm getting there...and then the mast will get stepped into the hull. Rob
  6. Spent a bit more time today working on the upper topsail. Used my gator extender for the sail position...worked magnificently.
  7. Doris....your work with modeling clay is just amazing..... Rob
  8. Michael...I would think that a natural sail is not set tight like a drum head..but is rather over sized...and as you suggested...they slightly stretch. My experience with paper is that if you only cut the sail exactly the right size...the surface used to create the billow will indeed rob from the length....making the sail short. So experimentation has proven this to be true. Rob
  9. One note: The sails are made slightly longer and when rolled and suspended...when dry..they are easily roped in with the sheets and secured giving the proper billow. If you make the sails the exact size required..when you billow them, they will be to short. Here are some images where I left off. Rob
  10. Instead of using a wad of paper to help extend the sail into a more natural billow and distance from the mast...I used a cotton applicator taped to a alligator clip. This idea worked out fantastic....I could set the distance easily. Just wait for the glue to dry....(Gonna use this every time)
  11. Spent some time working on sails..... Here are some pix. Started with the topgallant construction...
  12. Thanks Popeye....I'm trying the best I can to achieve the most accuracy in this scale. Rob
  13. Wire. Then painted black. No one is going to play with them to see if they are hemp or not...and in many cases, anyway, they were wire cable. Once tucked amid the numerous other running and standing rigging....they present themselves with great accuracy. Which is the actual goal anyway. Thanks for the fine comments and interest. Rob
  14. Once that was all done I moved into making and installing the first of the sails...the royal. It is setting suspended at the right billow..and allowed to dry....then I will add the clew blocks to the clew cringles and finish rigging the bubntlines by adding the bunt blocks on the yard and running the lines down along the mast to the spider rail. After this is all finished I will begin fabricating the topgallant sail and her rig.... Rob
  15. I realized that I could also add items side by side as well as from top to bottom. Installing all the sagging lifts one side at a time made the process move out faster. Next is making and adding all the blocks needed for the sail rigging and for the yards. Unlike last time, I'll probably just make all the blocks, then hang them and then run the rigging. It is more productive for me to create small projects......making the BIG project come along that much faster......It's all mental.... I'll be back at it tomorrow for an hour or so then CHRISTMAS! Merry Christmas everyone....... Rob
  16. Those resistors are great for toning down the brightness of those LED's. I appreciate your response about the sails. Fine chalk powders are great for weathering, if that is what you are using. Cloth sails have always been problematic....because of the scale issue....I'm interested in your technique. Another question; What is the gold paint you are using for all your gold work? Is that the automotive paint? It sure is bright and has a tendency to flow smoothly into voids and makes the carvings softer and less rigid looking. Rob
  17. Fantastic Doris.... I can see from that one image of you holding the cabin bulkhead, that your scale is much larger than what I generally work in. 1/55 is slightly larger than 1/128. Your work is just wonderful.... On another note; you will have to give a quick tutorial on how you fashioned your sails...what they are made of and your treatments for them. Your sails are very realistic. Rob
  18. Once all the yards are mounted, then I will add all the relaxed lifts in sequence. I began the topgallant yard by adding all the eye bolts and the sheet block...now I'm getting ready to rig the foot ropes and stirrups. The sheet holes have been drilled and chamfered. Rob
  19. Spent a bit of time today and finished up the top sail yard...still need to add the halyard.
  20. These are my vary own thoughts. I am no purist and for as long as I have been building ship models(nearly 50 years), I have used anything and everything to build my models. You can find material from wood, plastic, metal, paper, card, wax, vinyl, rubber, poly-, bondo, plaster, and a plethora of other materials on all my models. The key philosophy is that *Paint covers a multitude of sin*, and the REAL ship I'm modeling was painted. It's not what you use to build your model...it's HOW you used it and does it replicate what you are modeling accurately. Rob
  21. Layering of multiple colors is the key to form detailed cabinetry. Wonderfully done. I suspect the light has come on for many modelers after you have exposed your techniques and they will begin to incorporate these techniques and materials into their own builds...so very nice. The purist of modeler can still find respect for your technique...even though they themselves would try to achieve their results in wood. I am a firm believer in using whatever material you can to achieve the results you are seeking. It is the end result that matters.. NOT what you made your model from. You have done that is great measure. Rob
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