lmagna

I would have to say "Possibly." Although there is little question that the Glomar Explorer could have at least raised parts of the sub and certainly the smaller wreckage scattered on the floor, she is no longer around much less available and I am not aware of a ship of a similar design at this point. I believe that depth would require some kind of ROV. The present record for the deepest salvage is by the US Navy ROV CURV III of a 15,000 pound CH 47 helicopter from 17,300 feet. That ROV has been replaced by the CURV 21 that is able to operate at 20.000 feet but I can find no records of it being used in any salvage operations to date, or what weight it could conceivably raise. I can't find anything presently that could lift a 320 foot 2500 ton ship from that depth, but the USNS Grapple retired in 2016 only had a static tidal lift of 350 tons maximum.

If you think that was interesting just wait until you tackle the PE AA guns. You should have real fun with that.

I think there could be a possible answer for that. The Navy, and I think this could be said of all navies of WWII, found that paint burns, and heavy layers of paint burns even better. So the best way to cut down on uncontrolled flames not caused by the original cause was to eliminate as many layers of paint as possible. So rather than paint over worn or rusting places they would either wait for full dock side facilities where it could be done right from the metal up, or scrape all excess paint as possible before repainting, AND keep the layers thin. I could be wrong but it seems that all of these worn and torn finishes we are seeing in these pictures of modern day vessels, both British and American, could be because of this attempt at keeping the finish as thin as possible rather than to just slop away with a brush as in older days. I could be wrong, it's just a thought. Another story that I think I read at some point or another was about a ship caught in a sand storm in the Mediterranean and it stripped all of the paint from the ship down to the bare metal. Just something I read and I don't know where or if it was true but as a number of these ships are operating in the middle east this could be another possibility.

Should be an interesting build Craig. Looks like at 1/350 even these huge ugly subs are kind of small. Are you intending to build it on the surface or submerged? The box top is kind of an interesting scene with the U-boat tugs and sub pens. But as she never reached France with her cargo it is unfortunately somewhat inaccurate.

I have given it some thought by using Neodymium magnets but nothing beyond the experiment stage. You need the right fuselage and everything needs to be balanced unless you use more than one "levitation" point. For electro magnetic you could look into something like this; https://www.wish.com/product/5e03067a5e89a702daa90bde?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5e03067a5e89a702daa90bde&ad_cc=US&ad_lang=EN&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=27.00&campaign_id=7203534630&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzsz-BRCCARIsANotFgMuFyhUJyYZZzpPGB3vXMHkkUZZz6a_d4BFGDrmZRTp52L2lvnQ83gaArjPEALw_wcB&share=web Here is a commercial version in use; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFWeEL63Hzs And if you really need extra lift; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFWeEL63Hzs

"What did you do in the war daddy?" "Oh I just went around and handed out balloons on a string." Not necessarily the most glamorous job of the war. You see them in all so many pictures but never give a thought on how they got there in the first place. I always just thought that they were inflated on deck and just floated up like flying a kite. Who said paintings can't be educational as well. I learned something new in addition to getting to admire another masterful painting. Thanks Jim

If my postman did that he would have to go to the back yard where it is located. Then I would be a little upset. I know that sometimes my buying choices can be a bit on the trashy side but who is he to decide? That's too bad Denis. It looked almost perfect for your problem. At least he returned your money. If you had known, another set that may have worked sole on eBay for a little less than $18 a few days ago. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-48-B-25J-by-Monogram-for-parts-or-restore-/333816413906?hash=item4db9023ed2%3Ag%3AMWQAAOSwtYNfzYPr&nma=true&si=5UfrHRb3SAVqgNx3kIne3ly%2B3Mk%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Maybe you can get lucky and find what you need a little closer to home and less expensive. That huge engine looks so bare just sitting there Craig!

I used to leave a Christmas present in the mailbox for my mailman back in the day when I had the same person all year long and even knew him by name. Now days I am lucky if I get the same person three days in a row and they have no idea who even lives in my house. I get mail sometimes for people who have not lived at this address for over twenty years. I also get mail that was supposed to be dropped of at my neighbors.

Great job Chris You are a braver and better man than me! If you use a strong CA glue and get it locked to the upper hull it should hold the new shape.

Makes our hobby look downright affordable!

That is because the PO uses the new hires and temps for this work and as they are non union part time, they don't have to be paid other than normal hours. USPS gets paid by Amazon but they keep as much as possible for the PO not the employee. It funny about the knocking part. I no sooner brought it up today that they no longer knock, and the UPS driver knocked on the door today for the first time in like forever. He must have been listening!

Like your last build Dan, there is no need for any critiques on this build either! It is obvious that you are a very skilled and accomplished builder in this medium. Looking forward to your next show-and-tell!

Looks like you will have a nice liner when you are done Chris If the lower portion of the hull is truly wider than the top then I would probably use your method #3 but with possibly some additional steps and cautions. #1 you could go ahead and glue the lower hull into place a nd then before doing anything more take a small drill and deepen the portholes, especially those on the lower couple of rows so that they do not get sanded or scraped away. #2 I would use a straight edge or back edge of a knife blade as a scraper and drawing it down the full length of the waterline remove the excess lower hull a little at a time until even. If done carefully there should be little or no contact with the upper hull at all. #3 Possibly remove the male portion of the keyway and glue the two halves together freehand using feel to make certain that tey are as centered as possible and then do steps #1 and 2. I would never try and stretch or bend anything resin. It is very brittle and it is almost certain that you will end up snapping something. CA glue can do wonders with resin but it would still be a PITA. Good luck with your build, are you going to do a build log on her?

More like GUARANTEED lost package, At least in my city anymore. Over the last couple of years especially since the election of the new mayor porch pirate activity has escalated tremendously. People even get pictures of the thief in the act with their porch cameras but it seems there is no follow up. On the other hand, a more affluent city down by Seattle has started putting trackers in selected bait packages and other methods to start catching these people and prosecuting them. I had a package carrier, (Amazon) just throw a package over the fence next to the sidewalk once and I spent quite some time on the phone with Amazon giving them a piece of my mind about it. I didn't really expect anything but being retired I have time to do things like that. Surprisingly the person on the phone said that they would put a note on delivery instructions to my address that items are only to be left on the porch next to the front door. Have not had a problem with Amazon since so maybe they were telling the truth and it worked. Like you say though, none of them knock or ring the doorbell either. But I have that sometimes covered by owning a little yappy dog that goes crazy at the front door if he hears them. I have not had a problem with the other carriers, other than to have them say the package was out for delivery and it does not come until the next day or Monday. Knock on wood! I suppose it is only a matter of time as the entire package delivery system depends on part time people who either work the season and are gone, or in the case of USPS go to work as part time, hoping to become full time and get ignored and over worked for a year or two without benefits and quit. They have the attitude that this method works fine and there are always more waiting to come to work for USPS. For those few who make it, in many cases it is a lifetime of gravy train and benefits with little fear of being fired.

It looks like in this case OCs link has more resources. Like I said, Scalemates is just a start I like to use.

The first place I always like to look is Scalemates. If you just enter the name of the ship or aircraft you will normally get everything that has been on the market from sometimes as far back as the 50s and the kit history showing who bought it or modified it and the year. Not always inclusive but almost always helpful. Then if you enter the actual model you want or have it will often have reviews and aftermarket listings with where to buy them and even research books and walk arounds of the real item. https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=hawker+hurricane* https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-09051-hurricane-mkiic--152852

That may cover you other guys. I normally just flap my mouth, (Or point my fingers in this case) with what little mind I have completely out of gear. Comes from years of practice.

Post away. It is always nice to see how someone models a subject, especially if they are talented like you obviously are.

I think that there is very little disagreement about black ships/boats existing. After giving it a little thought it becomes somewhat obvious. As for them being appealing vs. more colorful ship choices I think it depends on the beholder. Your drifter looks very nice in black, but it would also be good looking and much brighter in say blue or something. I used the Colonial sloop Providence as a possible example as she has been documented as being black in at least two historical accounts, and suggested that could be because she possibly had been painted that way do to use as a smuggler and the new owners felt no reason to go through the expense of changing the color. In fact it may have been beneficial in her new role as a warship. But both the full sized "reproduction" and almost every model I have seen use the natural or light colored bulwarks in their choice of coloring. In that case, it could be said that this is done in spite of historical accuracy favoring aesthetics. A good reference for appealing colors would be to look at Mark Moltin's build of a cutter in the gallery today. This is exactly the same kind of vessel we have been talking about here. It looks absolutely fantastic in copper, blue, and yellow. It is almost impossible to determine if any British cutter was painted in that combination but there is no doubt it is very striking. By the same token I have my doubts that if the cutter had been owned by a smuggler it would not be so brightly colored. Just some of my personal opinions and observations put out there for discussion value. Doesn't make them right.

Nicely executed Dan. A very clean looking model. I don't think I have ever seen a three tone underside camo before. Thanks for sharing

Nice build Craig. I think if I tried it the build would take four times as long and only come out half as nice, if that.

True at the beginning of the race, but as the race progressed the cars would get more strung out and there would be an almost constant string of cars going by. Yes you would have to wait a few minutes for the lead cars to go by but there was plenty to see and hear further back in the pack as well. In sports and prototype races there was also a huge mixture in types of cars on the track at the same time and each car sometimes had a far different sound than the car before it. There is a considerable difference between the big block American engines and the sound of a Ferrari V12 or Porsche engine. And there were the smaller Dino's and Alfa's and many others as well. Then there were the CanAm cars. All the roar of NASCAR but the exotic looks of prototype cars. Like Jack we tended to travel around the track when possible rather than just sit in the bleachers for hours at a time. Didn't get to go often but the memories are still fresh. I was even able to get to Sebring once. (Only time in my life) Watched Sterling Moss go through the pits at about one hundred miles an hour! I forgot why he did it but he was penalized several minutes for doing it. I think that race was also the first time I ever saw Jim Hall race, but the Chaparral looked nothing like the Chaparral 2 he drove to victory a couple of years later.

Sorry to hear that it didn't work out Chris but it is true that at some point the pleasure can be lost and it is time to move on. Please explain the use for shellacking the formers on a paper kit. I am a complete dummy on paper models. The closest I aver came to doing one was the folded notebook paper flying type made back in grade school when I should have been using the paper for school work. Not very scale but some of them could put your eye out from across the lunchroom!

For being stock that is a pretty well detailed cockpit. At least when you do it! I wonder what it would look like if you had added aftermarket?

Nuts are too valuable to waste by tossing them down onto the dockyard, so no ammo for you. Only the shells get tossed as they are only good for brushing onto the floor. So if the Admiral says anything we will blame you. We are not complete dummies up here! I like the way the camo pattern came out. it is thin like you wanted, but it is also slightly translucent and that makes it look slightly faded as I am almost certain is a more accurate look for any time other than a week out of drydock before wind and elements took over.