lmagna

Should work just fine after planking. Won't tolerate much sanding before you go through the cloth though. I would be tempted to use mat at that weight. It would make repairs to thin areas easier if you sand too much.

You did really sneak that one in Jack, but it really did turn out nice. I agree that it looks just fine in the same diorama as the Half track. "We got us a CONVOY!"

If you are going to RC this ship then you need not plank or sheet the hull at all. You can fill in the areas you presently have between the existing bulkheads with expanded Styrofoam. You can source this in a number of forms and it is both easy to work with and can even be free if you look around. Then all you need to do after filling in the spaces is to sand the hull to shape using the present bulkheads as guides. When properly shaped use some spackle for a final smooth hull shape and correct errors, also sanded down to as thin a coating as you can. Then use some fiberglass cloth and resin, (Epoxy unless you left a relatively thick layer of plaster) and coat the entire exterior. This can be repeated if you wish to make the hull thicker and stronger. Then remove the excess foam from the interior and you have a waterproof hull. A number of years ago I did essentially the same thing with the hull of an ocean going WWII tug in 1/48th scale and when finished just poured gasoline into the hull and the foam disappeared. Not necessarily recommended as the fumes are HORRIBLE! But I was young and in a hurry, and it was quick!😝 Probably a bit stupid as well and I had to leave it outside for a couple of days to rid it of the fumes. Ended up with an almost completely open 48" hull that never had a single leak in over five years of running in almost all conditions. Even went winter icebreaking with it a couple of times. THAT was a little hard on the bow so didn't really follow up on that idea. Although it has not been run in probably twenty plus years the hull is still as solid as it was back in the day. The superstructure could use some work as it has fallen from the shelf a couple of times over the years but the hull was not affected. Even if you do use planking or sheeting it would still be a good idea to coat over it with fiberglass cloth and resin though. You need not make it as heavy in that case though as the wood will give the hull all of the strength it will need.

I agree with the above. We had them on our patrol cars as well even though they were mounted on the emergency light bar, and also called them "Alley lights." And yes they do turn night into day for at least a half a block. This build has really turned out. Very impressive work on your part. Are you going to do the ladder truck now?

Nice work, i think this is the first time I have ever seen one of these UGears models completed.

The picture is impressive not only for the angle but the closeness and sharpness. Makes one feel like he is standing on the deck of the PT 109! Looked up your camera and it doesn't look much like a pocket camera to me!

Isn't that any position that gets you out, hopefully alive? Remember Jeffrey Zaun? For some time after people saw him on Iranian TV they were certain he had been beat in captivity. But he later said that they were mostly caused by the process of ejecting. There is a pretty long list of pilots who have died from ejecting unfortunately.

WOW! That #1 photo is impressive. What camera did you get?

Great looking work Craig. This is really turning into quite the involved build. Did you ever make a decision on the hoses?

That went quickly! Nice running engine.

Now THAT is a term that is even new to me, and I thought I had heard them all.

Keeps getting better and better Craig.

These days when asked about kids I just ask "which generation"?

So what do you think of your airbrush after the first use Edward? Do you think you are going to like the change? Can't comment on the color as I know nothing about German tanks, but the covering and texture look good from here.

She really is a very striking vessel Chris, and your rendition is outstanding.

Very nicely done Kevin. Congratulations

Also, in regards to your "flaps", yes they are really called ailerons and normally work in opposite directions forcing one wing upward and the other downward at the same time. This is not always true with some modern aircraft but we are talking about the F4F not some 21 century super fighter. At any rate while it is true that this is how they worked on the Wildcat, they also assumed the position you have placed them when the wings were folded. So if your intent is to model the plane with the wings folded you are right as rain in their position. WHOOPS! Sorry Mike, didn't see your above post before posting my mediocre example.

I would think they were almost certainly mechanical Ken. Almost everything on the Wildcat including the landing gear that was hand cranked up and down was mechanical.

Glad to see that you were able to make the nacelles work Denis.

A little more smoothing and it's on to bigger and better things. Congratulations Jack. Are you going to make her float, ski, or wheeled?

It's up to you really. It can be done either way, but after building a number of long narrow hulls over the years, (For RC use) I prefer to keep them attached to the building board for as long as possible. It is disappointing to go through the building of a hull for a destroyer or gunboat, or in this case a sub chaser and find the hull has taken the shape of a pretzel or banana. For some reason it does not seem to be as big an issue with wide beam shorter vessels like fishing boats or tugs.

Interesting build Legion. I have always liked the 110 foot sub chasers. Not only would I also recommend backing up and properly fairing the frames like VTHokiEE said, but I would also get a building board to mount the frame on while planking or sheeting or whatever you want to call it. This vessel has a long narrow hull that is very easy to warp or twist while building and of course you want to avoid that. After you get the entire hull covered you can cut it off of the building board and work with it in the normal way.

In addition to Yves suggestion's you might consider placing some reinforcing blocks over the screws that go through the hull. Again, that is only if you intend to Run the model. If you are just building for display then it is not really an issue. Nice work so far, looking forward to your progress.

Like I said, not a medium I was ever able to accomplish much of anything in! Except possibly the paper airplanes we threw in school that were made from the notebook paper we were supposed to be using for school work.

Looks more like Grandpa was doing a little carousing and decided the grandkids needed a little horizon broadening. I suppose you told Mama that you were just going out to watch the game!