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Everything posted by lmagna
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Yeah I kind of figured it may be an experiment in progress from when I read the link in your earlier post. Yeah, but she has a pretty cool dragon!
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It seems that each ship in the class has it's own unique transom flap with no two being exactly the same.
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It would probably amount to much the same thing. A deluxe kit with all of the PE and wooden deck would probably be as much or more than when purchased separately, but you would have to fork it over all at once. Look at the cost of the 1/72 platinum edition of the Flower Class Corvette a few years ago. They were twice as expensive or more than the standard model at the time, and I think the PE included was not as extensive as the after market stuff that was available for the same kit. I believe that in the case of the Trumpeter CV-1 PE available it is going to replace all of the extensive under deck girder assemblies. THAT is a lot of PE. I see no reason why it will not be the same for the AV-3 version as well. I will not be building either version of the Langley as I am not a big bird farm fan, but if I was to build it, I am pretty certain I would build her as she was in the end when she was placed into a compromised position and sent in unnecessary circles until it was certain that she would be lost without a chance of achieving her last mission. ABDA was a total mess and a almost a tragic waste of men and ships. But they consistently kept coming back and giving all until there were almost none left to give, including the Langley.
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It's funny that you bring this ship up at this time Greg. I was just talking to Landlubber Mike the other day and he says that this type ship may be his dream build especially in it's later seaplane support role in early WWII. He was thinking of the Japanese equivalent and I was going to recommend the Langley, I'm pretty certain that he will be chiming in soon. I'll point him here.
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I second Mike on his opinion on the PT103 site. Definitely a one stop shopping source for anything PT. Pretty well organized also.
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Have you considered having water running out of the freeing ports along the side? Water flows freely through these holes as they are only there to keep air from being trapped between the pressure hull below and the free flooding deck above. Another possibility would be to add some black smoke somewhere aft, (I am not certain where the exhaust is on a Japanese I boat) that hugs the water on each side indicating that they have just started the diesel engines to start the battery charge and the low pressure air to finish filling the ballast tanks to become completely surfaced.
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Well we all know what the chances for that are! I haven't even been able to get back to my Huey yet and I don't have 25 work stations around the house where I can bounce from one build to another. Now if I could take over one of my wife's three rooms of dolls, or get rid of a kid or two and repurpose their room like you did, or even grow layers of fur in the winter to stay warm so I could work in the basement......................... Even then nothing I did would be perfect. I am surprised that the V 22 model is tail heavy though. Is there a chance you can add weight in the wing before mounting it?
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I like the effect Craig. I personally think it is a step in the right direction, for what ever that is worth.
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At this rate of building you will have this kit done in about a week! It was good talking to you as always Denis. It is also fun getting you in trouble by suggesting where you can spend more money! It could become one of my favorite indoor sports in this shut in life. EG is right in his description of the hull construction. That was why I sent you the picture showing the process when we were talking yesterday. These were pretty large boats when you think of what we call plywood today and I don't think you could go down to your local hardware store and buy large sheets of highly compressed and glued together sheets of wood like what we call "Plywood" today. Instead they used the method described by EG to fabricate what most people describe as "plywood" but could in reality be described as a laminated planking system. "The Elco and Higgins companies both used lightweight techniques of hull construction which included two layers of double diagonal mahogany planking utilizing a glue-impregnated cloth layer between inner and outer planks. These planks were held together by thousands of copper rivets and bronze screws. The overall result was an extremely light and strong hull, yet it could be easily repaired from battle damage at the front lines." As for the props, the Navy specs called for 3 three blade twenty eight to thirty inch props, all right hand At 1/30 scale this would work out to a little under 1" diameter, (or about 25mm). Manufacturer: Federal Mogul Equi-Poise. The following pitch and diameter information is based on PT historian Andy Small's research. His research shows that Elco 80' boats were equipped with 28" diameter propellers until PT 613 (direct drive boats) which used 29" diameter propellers. Pitch = inches traveled per revolution (with no slip) and relates to the blades angle to the hub. Center: 28" diameter x 28 pitch, right hand. Outboard: 28" diameter x 29" pitch, right hand. Per Feb 2, 1943 BUSHIPS PT-103 Class Propeller drawing 78095: Diameter: 28". Pitch: 28". Weight: 61 pounds. Material: bronze casting to material specification Federalite-55. Hub: 5.5" length, 3.5" front diameter, 3" rear diameter. Per the Navy build manual: There shall be 3 aluminum-manganese-bronze right hand turning propellers per vessel. The diameter of the propellers shall not exceed 30 inches. Hub length will not exceed 8 1/2 inches. SECTION A-1, GENERAL, Principal dimensions. The following data are for information only: Draft, normal, under 28" propellers: 5' 3/4" SECTION S8, TRIAL REQUIREMENTS: (a) Propeller test. This test shall be conducted in accordance with instructions issued by the Bureau of Ships for the type boat of each boatbuilder for the purpose of selecting the proper propeller for service conditions. Such a test shall be repeated as conditions of loading or design changes require. I also used two props when I built my RC version but I was able to use a set of bronze cast props that Dumas used to sell that not only operated quite well but looked almost scale in the process. Like many nice things, those props are no longer available. But if you are willing to put out the money, (There is that word again that gets you in trouble every time I talk to you) you can buy some fairly nice cast props that almost look like they are the right prop for what you might need @ https://www.harbormodels.com/pd2511.html At the speed that you are building this information is probably already too late but hope it is informative anyway.
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Good luck, I hope you can make it happen. I looked the set up and he still has it listed and that he has 4 conversion sets available. I would think that all you would need to do is buy another set and see if he ships them this time. He refunded your money last time so he seems to be a reliable seller and not prone to ripping you off. He does list a VERY LONG shipping time though, (Feb 9- March 8th!) at this point. Here is another option, and it is located here in the US. It is not as extensive as the conversion kit out of Korea but it is somewhat less expensive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Accurate-Miniatures-1-48-b25-MITCHELL-3430-9000-COWL-ASSY-595944/154200203680?hash=item23e70c61a0:g:A8MAAOSwxF5ftJxK Or this option from the same guy in Kentucky at the same price but with more parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/B-25G-Mitchell-Accurate-Miniatures-3432-1-48-SPRUE-PARTS-595947/393021332575?hash=item5b81e59c5f:g:yOYAAOSwJ9RftJwe It looks like it has all of the parts the Korea set has without the additional weapons tree. Or under curtain #3 at a lot more money, you could get an additional bomber kit that contains the conversion kit and build both planes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Accurate-Miniatures-1-48-B-25C-D-Mitchell-w-B-25G-Conversion-Kit-Sealed/143593926287?epid=2254505978&hash=item216edd6e8f:g:XNwAAOSwIWxerCkz
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Not bad at all really. When I saw the pictures a while back on the discovery of the 109 I was pretty certain that what was laying on the bottom of one picture was a torpedo tube. While the discovery of the 109 was of mild interest I was never a huge fan per say and just tucked it away along with all of the other useless junk laying about in my head. I think the PTs didn't switch to the MK13 until sometime after the loss of the 109, but I would not swear to that. Some of them may have never switched, I don't know. I never followed the PT boats that closely.
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Nice progress Denis. So this is going to be the PT2020! Should be interesting. All kinds of modern fast attack boats out there but unfortunately very few with the PT style hull these days. (That kind of hull is sometimes a little hard on the human spine and other parts of the human anatomy at the speeds they want these days.) You would need to make a BUNCH of alterations but here is an interesting modern version. (At least to me) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_V_Special_Operations_Craft
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Are you sure about the roll off aircraft style launch torpedo's EG? I know about the field mounted 37MM gun on the bow, but have never seen anything about the 109 being converted to the side launch system used later, mostly with the MK 13 aerial torpedo. Could it be the PT 59 you are thinking about?
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You did that on purpose. You just wanted me to drool on my keyboard!
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I like your choice of color base Craig. Are you going for a nighttime routine surfacing for battery charge? Sounds like you have used about a gallon of white glue so far.
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The weight of paint. Obvious factor on almost any ship............... And one I had not considered! Now that you brought it up. Now that you mention it, I remember being told by a guy I know who paints 747s here in the Everett Boeing plant, that the main consideration in painting these planes is the weight of the paint. He says the thickness of the paint on the average car is considerably thicker than on virtually all modern aircraft.
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