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At last we get to the first stage of the money to noise conversion section. Congratulations on your results so far. VERY impressive.

I brought it up before in my last post but it seems I forgot to supply the title or link. I have this book and for all intents it is a step-by-step guide on building a tramp steamer of the turn of the century. https://www.amazon.com/practical-fundamental-principles-described-especially/dp/9353863198 It is available in a number of editions and prices. There is no way you could use everything included in the book as it is intended as a reference for building the real ship. I would recommend it to anyone building this kind of ship whether it be to house King Kong or not. Here is another source covering much of the material from the book but in less detail. You can click on the pictures and see details of much of what you are looking for. http://www.cocatrez.net/Water/FerrisShips/FerrisShips.html At the bottom of the article there is also some general arrangement detail on the Dougherty style steamer, also from WWI but more like what you are looking for. There are also a few other general arrangement plans available at the bottom as well. In addition since it appears that you have some 3D skills: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/ww1-us-cargo-ship-efc-1001-ferris-1-350-scale

It would possibly still be one of the top planes of it's type if they could retro design more stealth into it economically.

1/72nd will be different for you. Should be interesting to see what you do with the extra size.

There are times where I wish I had taken the same approach with some of my smaller scale RC boats years ago. Did you get/install your new motor yet?

Truly an elegant model masterfully executed. Congratulations and thanks for inviting us along for the trip. I especially like the last photo, looking through the windows. All that is missing is the steam and smoke of the train station.

That's one solution! Possibly a "Go fund me?" Seems to be what people do these days.

It almost makes her look like someone is trying to say "Here I am" compared to all of the other ships in the convoy!

Looking very nice.

I will certainly be on board for that build!

Very nice build review Brad. It will be interesting to see your footage of her under way with the new motor when you get it.

Hi Brad Glad to see you made it here. I think you will not regret it, great place and people. You will fit right in.

Voracious crowd!

All of the above methods are viable and have been used. I have used several of them including the moveable lid ballast tank I described above. When the "free floating" lid is is dropped to the level of the water and locked then the "tank" becomes a solid weight were the medium no longer moves thus becoming a solid weight. My method of locking the floating lid was to use two threaded rods that lay across the top of the lid and when it was resting on top of the correct amount of water, run the end out so that it locked the lid and prevented sloshing about and go ahead for the day. As the weight of water is a well known factor and the cubic inches of the ballast tanks can be deduced then it is easy to tell just how much weight would be needed for a given depth. I prefer to just stay with using water as it does not normally have to be transported to the running area and back. I have used this method in two barges that I used along with my RC tugs years ago. That way I could adjust the weight of the barge to suit the power of the tug I was using and not make it so light that it was too easy to be a challenge. No additional baffles were needed as the tank tops themselves were adjustable. I have also seen submarine style ballast tanks used and of course solid weights they all have their pros and cons as well as limitations depending on the size of the model. Richard is not building a barge and may never have the desire or need for variable displacement in which case it is also relatively easy to figure out the needed weight with mathematical formulas and build to suit. I was just offering one possible solution. YMMV

You might consider just adding a flat "top" or internal lid to the tanks that travels up and down with the level of the water while resting on the surface. This would prevent the water from sloshing around and the constant shifting of ballast as the ship rolls and pitches. Once you know the level of water needed for proper ballast then you can lock the lids in place and vent any excess through vents over the side to show that they are full. These same vents can be used to allow air back into the tanks when pumping dry for transport.

Nice of you to think of me and wait Edward. I'm afraid that my special stock does not arrive until the week after next when my wife returns with it from her trip with a girlfriend. Nice work Craig I have never seen the interior of a Lee and am learning as you progress.

Only those I brought with me. Been on a bit of a limited diet lately. Not forced just loss of apatite after starting a new med. Down a little over 20 pounds. Who knows, might be a good thing in the long run. Loose pain, pounds and both vertical and horizontal inches!

Same here. Got my hammock already strung from the rafters. Great view so far.

Plus on those days when nothing seems to be going right, it is easy to find and you only need to flip it over and fill it up a few times.

It would take me a name-by-name check but I think that those corvettes that were transferred from the RN to the RCN maintained heir flower names as Eyebright did. Those ships built in Canadian yards and went directly into the RCN had names of Canadian cities or possibly rivers in addition to flowers. I also may be wrong! (If you are in doubt check with my wife, she will confirm that I am.)

Flower class corvette, so Eybright = https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euphrasia used for treating U-Boat infestations Look forward to all of your paintings Jim. They make my day start out right!

I have done this in the past. I run the lights in parallel so I can run as many lights as needed. (LED) I run one wire externally making it look like conduit by gluing it directly to the bulkhead. The other wire with the resisters runs inside parallel to the string of lights. this is very easy to install and maintain and I have used wire as small as 80 microns for six running lights on a WWII warship, and have not generated any heat in years of off and on running. There is no need to use insulated wire when run like this. If you ran surface mount resisters they could possibly be run externally as well and hidden behind the light fixtures, but to be honest I see little value in that. Dollhouse ribbon self adhesive wiring strips also work quite well but of course have to be installed internally or painted over externally and still don't look quite right.

Another master build. She looks right at home with the other two. I wonder if they ever sailed together in real life? Or even met?

Been there, done that, more than once. Why is it that when there are a group of RC boaters, that ALL of the boats seem to have to group into the same small space when there is a whole lake to run in?

I am not normally a huge fan of most modern warships but for some reason I have always liked the Oliver Hazard Perry class class of FFGs. Possibly it is the bow, or possibly that many of them, (including the Sydney) were built right here close to my home and over the years I have seen a lot of them. Very nice work as always Greg. MUCH NICER than the Revell or Monogram FFG I built as a kid.