lmagna

Truly an elegant model masterfully executed. Congratulations and thanks for inviting us along for the trip. I especially like the last photo, looking through the windows. All that is missing is the steam and smoke of the train station.

That's one solution! Possibly a "Go fund me?" Seems to be what people do these days.

It almost makes her look like someone is trying to say "Here I am" compared to all of the other ships in the convoy!

Looking very nice.

I will certainly be on board for that build!

Very nice build review Brad. It will be interesting to see your footage of her under way with the new motor when you get it.

Hi Brad Glad to see you made it here. I think you will not regret it, great place and people. You will fit right in.

Voracious crowd!

All of the above methods are viable and have been used. I have used several of them including the moveable lid ballast tank I described above. When the "free floating" lid is is dropped to the level of the water and locked then the "tank" becomes a solid weight were the medium no longer moves thus becoming a solid weight. My method of locking the floating lid was to use two threaded rods that lay across the top of the lid and when it was resting on top of the correct amount of water, run the end out so that it locked the lid and prevented sloshing about and go ahead for the day. As the weight of water is a well known factor and the cubic inches of the ballast tanks can be deduced then it is easy to tell just how much weight would be needed for a given depth. I prefer to just stay with using water as it does not normally have to be transported to the running area and back. I have used this method in two barges that I used along with my RC tugs years ago. That way I could adjust the weight of the barge to suit the power of the tug I was using and not make it so light that it was too easy to be a challenge. No additional baffles were needed as the tank tops themselves were adjustable. I have also seen submarine style ballast tanks used and of course solid weights they all have their pros and cons as well as limitations depending on the size of the model. Richard is not building a barge and may never have the desire or need for variable displacement in which case it is also relatively easy to figure out the needed weight with mathematical formulas and build to suit. I was just offering one possible solution. YMMV

You might consider just adding a flat "top" or internal lid to the tanks that travels up and down with the level of the water while resting on the surface. This would prevent the water from sloshing around and the constant shifting of ballast as the ship rolls and pitches. Once you know the level of water needed for proper ballast then you can lock the lids in place and vent any excess through vents over the side to show that they are full. These same vents can be used to allow air back into the tanks when pumping dry for transport.

Nice of you to think of me and wait Edward. I'm afraid that my special stock does not arrive until the week after next when my wife returns with it from her trip with a girlfriend. Nice work Craig I have never seen the interior of a Lee and am learning as you progress.

Only those I brought with me. Been on a bit of a limited diet lately. Not forced just loss of apatite after starting a new med. Down a little over 20 pounds. Who knows, might be a good thing in the long run. Loose pain, pounds and both vertical and horizontal inches!

Same here. Got my hammock already strung from the rafters. Great view so far.

Plus on those days when nothing seems to be going right, it is easy to find and you only need to flip it over and fill it up a few times.

It would take me a name-by-name check but I think that those corvettes that were transferred from the RN to the RCN maintained heir flower names as Eyebright did. Those ships built in Canadian yards and went directly into the RCN had names of Canadian cities or possibly rivers in addition to flowers. I also may be wrong! (If you are in doubt check with my wife, she will confirm that I am.)

Flower class corvette, so Eybright = https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euphrasia used for treating U-Boat infestations Look forward to all of your paintings Jim. They make my day start out right!

I have done this in the past. I run the lights in parallel so I can run as many lights as needed. (LED) I run one wire externally making it look like conduit by gluing it directly to the bulkhead. The other wire with the resisters runs inside parallel to the string of lights. this is very easy to install and maintain and I have used wire as small as 80 microns for six running lights on a WWII warship, and have not generated any heat in years of off and on running. There is no need to use insulated wire when run like this. If you ran surface mount resisters they could possibly be run externally as well and hidden behind the light fixtures, but to be honest I see little value in that. Dollhouse ribbon self adhesive wiring strips also work quite well but of course have to be installed internally or painted over externally and still don't look quite right.

Another master build. She looks right at home with the other two. I wonder if they ever sailed together in real life? Or even met?

Been there, done that, more than once. Why is it that when there are a group of RC boaters, that ALL of the boats seem to have to group into the same small space when there is a whole lake to run in?

I am not normally a huge fan of most modern warships but for some reason I have always liked the Oliver Hazard Perry class class of FFGs. Possibly it is the bow, or possibly that many of them, (including the Sydney) were built right here close to my home and over the years I have seen a lot of them. Very nice work as always Greg. MUCH NICER than the Revell or Monogram FFG I built as a kid.

Hope you recover quickly and your symptoms are light Dan.

I think that Kevin's idea of heat forming the sheets to the hull is a great idea. This would somewhat match how they build the real ships and help keep the panels from wanting to pull away as much, if at all. Have you any experience using the contact glues they use in laminate countertops? That stuff is incredibly strong as well as waterproof. The only problem is that once the two surfaces make contact with each other no adjustment is possible! Something a little more forgiving when applied but still waterproof and strong when set would be Epoxy adhesive Glues. They come in a number of setting times and are somewhat flexible when set up. Looking forward to what you end up with. Whatever it is I am certain it will look impressive.

Yes they were, (are). But for purposes of RC operation two is more than enough. Remember you have something like an 8:1 hull ratio and it will not take much to get it going plenty fast enough to look realistic. (Or get yourself in trouble if you don't have plenty of room😭). Denis's suggestion of dummy props for when the ship is on display is a pretty good one.

Not certain if I can help with actual documentation on either ship, especially the Shokaku. What I know about the painting and other details on WWII Japanese ships would possibly come close to covering the head of a pin. Three people here that come to mind that may be able to help if they are looking in would be Landlubber Mike who has researched and built several IJN WWII ships and may have some inside knowledge he has ran across. The same would hold true for RGL(Greg) who I suspect has accumulated a considerable amount of research in pursuing his numerous builds. My other choice would be Egilman who has built a vast knowledge base on what appears to be an almost unlimited number of subjects both common and esoteric.

Where have I heard that before?😎