lmagna

Hope you recover quickly and your symptoms are light Dan.

I think that Kevin's idea of heat forming the sheets to the hull is a great idea. This would somewhat match how they build the real ships and help keep the panels from wanting to pull away as much, if at all.

Have you any experience using the contact glues they use in laminate countertops? That stuff is incredibly strong as well as waterproof. The only problem is that once the two surfaces make contact with each other no adjustment is possible! Something a little more forgiving when applied but still waterproof and strong when set would be Epoxy adhesive Glues. They come in a number of setting times and are somewhat flexible when set up.

Looking forward to what you end up with. Whatever it is I am certain it will look impressive.

1 hour ago, mtdoramike said:

But the actual ship I believe was a 4 screw.

Yes they were, (are). But for purposes of RC operation two is more than enough. Remember you have something like an 8:1 hull ratio and it will not take much to get it going plenty fast enough to look realistic. (Or get yourself in trouble if you don't have plenty of room😭). Denis's suggestion of dummy props for when the ship is on display is a pretty good one.

Not certain if I can help with actual documentation on either ship, especially the Shokaku. What I know about the painting and other details on WWII Japanese ships would possibly come close to covering the head of a pin.

Three people here that come to mind that may be able to help if they are looking in would be Landlubber Mike who has researched and built several IJN WWII ships and may have some inside knowledge he has ran across. The same would hold true for RGL(Greg) who I suspect has accumulated a considerable amount of research in pursuing his numerous builds. My other choice would be Egilman who has built a vast knowledge base on what appears to be an almost unlimited number of subjects both common and esoteric. 

4 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

{one day Lou,  I will get to it}  from one model junkie to another.......I know your pain 

Where have I heard that before?😎

Which two are you needing Denis?

3 hours ago, RGL said:

as a start, I’m happy. 

I would have been happy with that as my FINISHED result! 

Hope this is what you are looking for. I have never seen the Japanese instructions but this is 21 pages of instructions in English PDF. Just download and use.

https://www.thewebernets.com/sdm_downloads/yamato-ijn-1-200-nichimo-instruction-manual-english/

Good luck finding the Encore Olympia. It was made by Squadron. Also as a limited edition model based on the Revell kit. Squadron went out of business and was purchased a year or two ago. I contacted the new owner trying to get the PE that he said was still around somewhere for my older Revell kit but he would need some time as he was just restarting up again., but he never followed up. 

Gold Medal Models makes a PE set as well as Toms models for the Revell kit. There are also wooden decks available and brass barrels. 

I agree, the Blue Jacket kit would have made a nice option.

This is my 1/72 Olympia

A little larger than any of them but it has presence!  I wanted the Oregon as well but it was not to be.

3 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Yes, kill the sound.

Certainly need to kill something! I suspect that even listening long enough to hear what was being talked about did some damage! 😝

It's not as large being that it is 1/350 scale but it is an accurate model, possibly more accurate than the Revell kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/402363546209?hash=item5daebc7a61:g:QHkAAOSwy2tfN~~H 

Good to see you are getting more build time Mike, this should turn out great. 

What new company did you end up getting the figures from?

17 hours ago, ccoyle said:

The Hellcat was a chunky beast!

Had to be to hold all that engine!

I agree with OC, possibly A&B but definitely not C.

Nice you were able to make the ANZAC service.

I was able to make the Veterans Day service at Arlington Cemetery a number of years ago and along with visiting the Vietnam wall was possibly the most emotional event I think I have ever attended. 

Very nice progress on the Sydney I think I would be lost at this point with all of the sub assemblies.

7 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

Guys how far from motors is ok to avoid interference for the RC gear and speed controllers?
Motors are in own compartment defined by Bulkheads up to waterline.

Distance should not be a large issue if you are using a modern 2.4GH radio/receiver. You may still want to run capacitors between the motor brushes and from each brush to the motor case like Ian suggested. You can also run a ferrite core with each motor power wire wound around the core. With a matched radio/receiver I doubt you will have any trouble anyway but just in case. If you end up running brushless motors you will probably have even less possibility of radio interference. The new paired radios are really pretty immune to RF issues.

Great build, this is going to be a real monster!

It looks like you fall into the area of life I found myself in while in my late teens Dion. Trying to figure out which interest was most important, modeling, cars, or women. Couldn't afford all three back then! Not certain I can today. Still have Mothers Day and our 40th anniversary to pay for in the next few weeks!

15 minutes ago, Dion Dunn said:

and how you could spend all of that time with her instead!

The very thought would make my wife load me down with Honey Do project's that would be certain to last me the rest of my life!

I have the CMK interior set. It consists of the interior seats and bulkheads. I don't remember it including flaps but I suppose it is possible. It is typical resin with about the same quality of detail as much of the rest of the model. It may be a waste of time anyway as once the hull is buttoned up almost none of it can be seen.

I also got the Eduard PE set but onlt for the engine detailing and some other stuff. The wheel well detail parts are completely wrong and look nothing like the real wells. I didn't know that the Pan Am decals were available, (Or they weren't at the time) but I am not certain I would have bought them anyway as I really like the military choices in colors.

53 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

If it was up to just me, I would pull the trigger on this right now.

If any model deserved the upgrade it is this one! Too bad life get in the way sometimes and reality sets in. You might get away with it if it was fathers day next week instead of Mothers day!

15 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I blame you for introducing me to the mutt planes though

Those aren't mutts they are true classics! You may have more than I do these days. My stash still consists of the JRS-1 with interior resin detail set, the HU-16 Albatross, the Martin M-130 China Clipper along with the Boeing 314 Clipper,(In two scales) the Martin P6M Seamaster, (Also in two scales) and Grumman G-21 Goose. I kept meaning to get the Martin PBM Mariner, (That I did have as a kid) and Consolidated PBY Catalina, (That I also had at one time) as well as the Sikorsky S-42 Flying Clipper, but have never gotten around to it. What can I say, I always liked flying boats.  

Nice job Denis. Those temperamental decals made the model. Glad you were able to piece them together. They look flawless on my screen.

I am beginning to suspect that you have an affection for mutt cars Mike!  First the 2CV and now this Morgan. Got any others in the stash that we don't know about?

Just like the 2CV I think you did an excellent job at building it even finding a unique way of dealing with the older decals. Congratulations. 

Not real certain anymore which corvette this is from my files, but if you look on both the starboard and port rear deck you can see two Lewis guns covered in canvas.

4 hours ago, ccoyle said:

they would be absurdly tiny, so don't ask!

Oh come on Chris, where is your masochistic streak? Great job on the baskets.

Those baskets were filled with float nets Chris. the nets were designed to float free of the ship, (hopefully) if it was sunk giving survivors something to grab onto in the water.