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lmagna

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Posts posted by lmagna

  1. 6 hours ago, AJohnson said:

    Well unlike your builds Chris, that thing 'looks' like it's made of card! 😆

    Looks more like LEGOS to me. Especially with the rust showing. I think that I might have wanted to be on that deployment. She was up there in the Bearing Sea for over two months during the worst weather time of the year with only quick trips down here to Everett to refuel and resupply. In and out only.

     

    I am not certain on your description Chris. Are you installing all of the "optional" super detailed parts or only a selected few of your choice? Also, is it cheating in card models to substitute say metal rod for things like the handrails etc. like using PE on a plastic kit or is only paper allowed to be considered a "Card Master?"  

  2. 14 hours ago, ccoyle said:

    much more visually interesting than, say, a Zumwalt-class destroyer.

    Almost anything is more visually interesting than the Zumwalt class destroyers! She was here a couple of months ago and other than looking odd when passing in the morning mist didn't reflect back much to look at either. 

  3. Under normal conditions I would think that the ships stores and the all important ships carpenter would fill the needs. If it was a size that they were out of stock then I am sure that a temporary block or fitting could be used while the carpenter made a new one. They were quite talented and resourceful.

     

    Another possibility would be in the case of extensive battle or storm damage, where I am pretty sure that anything that might be found would be put to use. These repairs might have to last until proper repairs could be made in a port depending on how extensive they were. Thus the term "Jury Rigged."

     

    No validation on this theory on my part just an opinion.

  4. On 1/12/2022 at 8:18 AM, Landlubber Mike said:

    I personally don't care if I finish a model.  In a lot of ways its anticlimactic for me, and I've been more about the journey than the destination anyway.

    You need to get into RC ships Mike.

     

    Unlike RC aircraft that have a tendency to "Re-kit" themselves after a short time and one needs to start allover. Scale boats are a hardier breed. They only get wear and tear and things keep getting broken for one reason or another. You are still making new and improved parts and upgrading the running gear 20 or more years down the road! Also the detailing never ends! Most of my RC ships have only two "Display" locations in my house. The REALLY old inactive models are in the basement on a shelf. The more active models are either sitting on an obscure bookshelf I have or on the workbench, (Read "table") being worked on! The real "Display" happens once a month or so at the local pond where I gather with others and do boat things with them. Lots of fun,     

  5. It all depends on what you what refer as "Progress" or "on-the-go".  At one end of the spectrum I presently have  100s of kits and scratch builds of one type or another that COULD be built. At the other end I have two RC tugs that are presently actually being worked on. Somewhere in between I have several that I take down and pet now and again.

     

    Yeah I know, pretty pathetic.

  6. Great work Greg

     

    It's funny though. In the "aerial" shots you used in this set, combined with not having the island as a reference, I found it hard to tell which end the bow was until after you applied the deck numbers.

     

    it's already clear that it is going to be another nice looking ship.

  7. I agree with both Dan and Ken. Soldering the tail using brass rod would be the direction I would go if I made any attempt at scratch building the tail at all. I also would use the Italeri parts to make a jig so this would have to be done before building that kit. But then I have done this kind of soldering many times over the years with my RC boats so I do not have too many reservations about doing that kind of work. The added advantage of doing it that way is that you could almost as easily make two tail sections and both models could get the enhanced tail. Just remember that if you do choose this method that you will also have created a tail dragger and there is no space in these helicopters to hide extra weight to bring the nose back down.

     

    Plastic rod might be stronger than you think. The real aircraft after all were for all intents built that way just for that reason, to get strength from what would be normally a material too weak to do the job.

     

    Another method you have partly explored would be to round out the cast Revell tail. In that case I think I would use one or both of two methods. One would be to cut a narrow strip of sand paper, loop it over the sections of "tubbing" and sand the inside surface round. In the other I would use the tip of a #11 Exacto blade and scrape the inside edges. Either choice would be faster and easier than resorting to using a needle file. 

     

    Just my two cents worth, (Only one after inflation) 

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