lmagna

Kevin,
 
That is an interesting photo - thanks for sharing it.  You can see that a prop is going to be there for a voyage- you can see the anchor points on the deck for each end of the tie downs that go over the prop blades. 
 
This is what I love about forums like this- you can learn something new from people all over the world.  
 
I couldn't find any info about what type of ship the Wei Lee is, so I’m not sure how relevant it is to my earlier question.  But I did say I had never seen a prop stored like that, and now I have!
(I still think it is a weird thing to put on a hospital ship!).  😎
 
-Bill

carrying a damaged one, is about all i found so far

Taiwanese ship Wei Lee in Sydney HarbourDamaged bronze spare propeller January 17 1983

now looking like a ship, she looks great, are you happy with the progress made, and would you recommend this kit to others

Steve,
I'm drooling ... marvelous build ... I would expect the screw on the deck to be fixed so heavy weather wouldn't make it run on the deck. Come to think of it, it may be on top of an axle like mount and fixed as if on the prop shaft ... you need to find out unfortunately I can't help you out just now

To those who gave likes, thank you and thanks for stopping by.
 
Steve

Decks are painted.  The half round edging work was a bit fiddly at the aft bridge deck.  Thankfully I had just enough - about an inch to spare - to finish the perimeter of both decks.
I cleaned up the navigation lights and gave them a coat of brass paint before adding color for the lenses.
I mixed a little black with the green and red at the nav light recesses to tone down the look.  Still needs dullcote, but the navigation light housing assemblies are now glued in place.  I'm working on the oops at the forward end of the join.  The promenade fiberglass was fat in this area, and the curved forward end of the promenade wall didn't quite align with the forward corner of the nav light assembly.  After the schmooze is smoothed we'll see how it looks.

The drawings and build photos show a spare prop mounted on the foredeck.  Since I purchased a real brass prop for sailing I used the kit metal prop for the spare, painted brass.  I think it needs dullcote too.  I anchored it with a short wood peg set in a shallow recess in the deck. Would the prop have been covered in canvas, or tied down in any way?
The funnel comes in two vac-formed pieces that must be cut from the sheet, trimmed and sanded.  Tabs must be added to the inside of one piece to help align with the other piece, but at the curved areas the tabs seemed to get in the way, with the end result being a need for auto glazing putty to fill and smooth out the joints and unintended overlaps.  The completed funnel is then fitted to a recess in the radio room after much sanding to match curve to curve.  The joint will get a piece of trim.  The top deck is still not glued to the bridge deck, hence the gap.

An overview of progress to date.  It's a challenge to get all the ship in a photo, but the strongest light is in the narrowest room.  Most everything is still loose and in need of paint.  Besides the funnel/radio room, the top deck work so far includes the lift machinery room with a locker at each side.
 
Below are a few more views.


The circles are raised pads that had red crosses during hospital use.  I’m assuming the quickie conversion to personnel carrier left the pads but painted out the crosses.  There will be several more structures aft of the funnel, and a forward compass platform directly above the bridge.

Hi all here is the best tip you will ever get, never ever glue the sub assy's to the deck if you're using pe this piece of pe took 2 hrs and ive left a piece out as I see no way of bending it and getting it in place (tbh it's so small even if I added it I doubt it would show anyway) 



Once again DO NOT GLUE SUB ASSYS TO THE DECK IF USING PE.

I dont know they came already colored from MK1. The cockpits also came pre colored. 

Work continues today.  The planes dollys are folded and soon to be painted...grey?


next i installed the planes cockpits


ya know what... in the spirit of getting this done and since the other side of the ship wont be veiwable I think I might just do 1 arado.  

anyhoo the paint is ready to go. I hope model air airbrushes ok. 

I started to bounce around. I cut out and folded the stairways.  And some life rings to possibly go ontop of the launches. 

thats about it for today. Oh and my new favorite tool. These toe nail clippers are wonderfull! 

untill tomorrow...
 

Work on shrouds started with making some zip seizing..
 

First line is in. I used this line to check the positioning of chain plates to make sure they will line up with shroud. One chain plate is a bit out of line and need to be adjusted very slightly. The seizing for a line was not put in final position, have to make sure that other seizing sits nicely and that the whole assembly looks neat.

There will be four pair of shrouds per mast. The 0.25 black ridging line was used for this task. I decided to mount all shrouds, position them properly so seizing lined up neat and then start with dead eye seizing..
 

The rope was cut to correct length for few shrouds.. The end of a rope was freeze with small amount of glue and straight to make running thru per-build seizing easier.




 

Here will do some repositioning of seizing to make then stay nice and neat.



The end of rope was secured with a piece of scotch tape so it does not come in the way to other ropes.
 

Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 

Craig
I'm sorry to nitpick, but you missed a very noticeable design feature. The prop had angled tips, not straight! 

You need to put a plow on the front and put it to work Jack!
 
Looking pretty nice.

Glad to see that you added the rigging Jack. It made the ship look much better, so did the weathering.
 
Thanks for letting us come along for the build.

Brings a whole new meaning to "Snow day"!

You need to put a plow on the front and put it to work Jack!
 
Looking pretty nice.

Glad to see that you added the rigging Jack. It made the ship look much better, so did the weathering.
 
Thanks for letting us come along for the build.

Put it in a case with a mirrored back panel! 
 
That's funny Wallace. We posted at the same time and I was at first going to say turntable!

I am not totally certain about the Smit Rotterdam, on many ships the bow thruster prop looks black. But I do know that many ships use a stainless prop as well so that would add another color to your possible choices. 
 

Thanks,  yes I have the 17th century version....those plans will be an enormous help...pdf 4 and 5 are the same? is there one missing or was it a duplication?
 
Going through the the instructions it's good to know deviation is acceptable.
 
Now I need to find cloudy ammonia.  

We once visited the Tirpitz muzeum in Alta norway.
On the site of this museum there is an interesting film with a Tirpitz in grey color and various other color schemes
 
https://www.tirpitz-museum.no/#home

increasing the water temp will soften the decal.   the newer the decal,  the quicker the release.  I use warm water for my decals.  odd shaped decals are better if you don't cut around them........they won't hang off the edge of the sheet.  if there is another decal on the piece,  I work around it and put it on next......not much else that can be done {just don't let it dry}.  hope it was nothing serious.

Ya I was happy to hear good news from her...one thing she did pass along, for problem decals, was that they recommend using very hot water and not soaking the decal at all...just a quick dunk and then onto the blotter for a few minutes...I would not of thought to increase the water temp....seems counter intuitive, but since I got a new set on the way I'm gonna try it and see what happens...I'll let you all know...my day semi sucked as well...beyond the decal issues...

Exactly. A sort of a box inboard of the bulwark (in my example, but could be also on a lower deck) with a lid. This leads into a rectangular shaft outside, that reaches down to about 1 m above the CWL. The ash is hoisted from the boiler-room in buckets that are then suspended from overhead rails on which they can be moved to the chutes. They are always arranged symmetrically on both, starboard and port, so that the ash can be always dumped on lee.
One can see these installations on old war-ship photographs, the ash-chutes are rectangular boxes, while the drains from toilets etc. are half-round.
Nice work on the torbedo-crane - as habitually 👍

I've enjoyed immensely your application of electroforming and fine soldering of your metal joinery on your builds.
I think it is amazing that you are not electro plating on another metal..but Forming new copper on electro conductive paint.
Makes so much sense in the building of your finely curved and molded parts.
 
Wonderful work indeed.
 
Rob

Crane beam for loading torpedoes.

Steven, thanks for your kind words!
I think that if you are engaged in building models of metal with the same diligence as the model of wood, then you still get great.