lmagna

Super nice looking pumps Mark.
 
Cheers,

I don't think I would like to be the guy in the bow. He is MUCH too close to the sharp end of the shark with nowhere to go! For that matter the other guy is far too close to the "Batter up" end! It looks like a case of "You are going to need a bigger boat" 
 
 
Lou

Danny,
 
You obviously need one of these. 
 
 

thanks Robert and Piet     yes,  it was a fun project.   at the moment,  I have the trawler Syborn and the Half Moon sitting on the main table...the Norden is still on the table in the spare room.  I was think'in about these two....the half Moon......I'm debating whether or not to order the triangular dead eyes for her...she might look terrible with the round ones.   the Trawler Syborn.....I decided not to use the life boats,  and have her sporting the life raft bins.  I ordered a package of four from Billing USA,  but they are too small....I need to order the larger ones.  so the probability meter went into the red for these two.  I'll think further about what to do next.......I'll have something on the table soon   

I don't think I would like to be the guy in the bow. He is MUCH too close to the sharp end of the shark with nowhere to go! For that matter the other guy is far too close to the "Batter up" end! It looks like a case of "You are going to need a bigger boat" 
 
 
Lou

I don't think I would like to be the guy in the bow. He is MUCH too close to the sharp end of the shark with nowhere to go! For that matter the other guy is far too close to the "Batter up" end! It looks like a case of "You are going to need a bigger boat" 
 
 
Lou

This is a poll of just registered members.  Only members can vote.  The most logical place for it is in the kit build log area and that is why it is there.   This is the largest collection of build logs on any ship model site.  The knowledge and expertise shared is quite valuable and it is something we want to encourage people to sign up for in order to see and take advantage of.  
 
  

I am no expert on glass or much of anything for that matter! During the time I was there, the house underwent a major restoration and a great deal of effort was put into determining what parts of the house were original. There is also a well-documented chain of ownership of that house. The majority of the window sashes were determined to be original to the house. There was at least one replaced after the American Civil War because a cannonball penetrated the house, largely destroying at least one window. In any case, the experts were able to determine which panes were original and which were replaced in the 1880s. Exactly how, I can't say. Perhaps through examination of the paint and glazing around them or perhaps some sort of examination of the glass itself. As best I can recall, they didn't remove any of the panes during the restoration but the restoration started about 2 years before I went to work there. Window glass in the 1700s was made in a different way than glass made in the 1800s so it had a different appearance. A web search on "dating window glass" will turn up a good bit of interesting material.

Has anyone used silkspan to make sails.?

First two stealers came off pretty good. Regular planks are 6mm wide stealer plank was 7mm. So about 14mm at the sternpost narrowing down to 6mm at the 2nd frame where it meets the normal strake. Pix may show a little more clearly.

 

 

 
As you can see I narrowed that gap some but not enough. It's going to take a second set of stealers, probably very close to the size & shape of the first. One huge problem, I can't find that 7mm stick - anywhere. That happened to be the only one I had. I found a 10mm stick in the kit - I could have shaved that down. But I imagine it has another purpose. I checked another kit I'm building, there were some 7mm sticks there but limewood. Who cares I guess? It's all going to be hidden anyway. So I'm shaping the next 2 from that.
 
Laying those down on the deadwood it appears that I may even need 1 more after that. The could get problematic because doing some math:
 
Space for 6 total strakes amid ship. 2 strakes used to fit the stealers leaves 4. One more stealer with a strake leaves 3 and I needed 4 to cover the last frame and hit that frame/deadwood joint. That doesn't work out. So now we're talking about a stealer up in the frame area. That was the one good thing with the 10mm stick. Two of those as stealers closed up that space perfectly. Everything would have fallen ito place.
 

Very well done B.E. 

Wow -- that third plank really does have a TWIST.  Your shot from the bow really does show off your fine work -- pretty doggone close to matching the Grand Maestro Chuck, I'd say.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

I wish Martin 
 
B.E.

Thank you Chuck and Rusty. 
Post 25
Planking the first belt
Chuck has set out the approach clearly in Chapter  four and I hope to follow his example.
I have tick marked each bulkhead for the first belt and tentatively  prepared the first strake below the Drop plank.
There is a fair bit to think about, marking the plank for the taper, remembering to mark the butt joints at the correct place, bevelling the plank before fitting, and marking the 'tar' line on the edge.

8016
The first plank below the Drop Plank is very short with a butt  joint below the first port.  I prepared a longer plank to include the second butt joint which is just forward of the third port from aft.
The first butt joint was scribed, which allowed me to get a continuous run and more easily form the required lateral curve into the stem rabbet.

8015
The third plank running to the stern was fitted separately and required a little twist where it runs into the counter.

8038
Port side strake completed.

8037
I run planks port and starboard alternatively to monitor the match, and place an even stress on the hull.

8040
Once the plank is shaped a dry fit is required to mark the butt joints, which are then cut.
The method indicated by Chuck really does take the guess work out of planking, which is not necessarily the same as saying I can match his peerless work.

8105
Five strakes completed below the wale, photo'd here in their unrefined state with only glue stains scraped away.

8108

8113

8114

8115

8116
I will now continue to finish the first belt. From this point onwards clamping the planks to the bulkheads gets a tad more tricky as they start to follow the round of the hull towards the keel.
B.E.
19/04/2018
 
 
 

I don't think I would like to be the guy in the bow. He is MUCH too close to the sharp end of the shark with nowhere to go! For that matter the other guy is far too close to the "Batter up" end! It looks like a case of "You are going to need a bigger boat" 
 
 
Lou

No problem shipman. For the most part my comments are just that, comments. I am neither a scholar nor a naval expert and as such calling any statements by me a contribution is possibly stretching things somewhat.
 
Having said that, what I was saying about Davis offering the formula for use with out just stating the formula results especially on page 229 was just my way of saying I am being lazy. He did give the results on page 230 for later era ships.
 
All formulas like Davis used would have been the standard for designing a ship and one would think they would be considered the ideal resulting hopefully in a balanced ship that was matched to it's armament. I am sure that exceptions were made to compensate for real life considerations, or local beliefs. Shipbuilding was not just a trade but a skill back then, much like model ship building is to us today. and each master builder very probably had his own idea to a certain extent what was right.
 
Lou

I also have the book and the only thing that makes me wonder is why Davis didn't just state the sizes in relation to the shot size rather than just giving the formula? I'm just being lazy i suppose.
 
You need to consider Wayne's information as well though. Sometimes, like in converting a merchant ship to carry guns the ship would be too small to have the ideal ports for the size of gun or number of guns that were intended. I suppose that could apply to warships as well.
 
Lou

There is a search feature which works well... upper right hand corner.   As for indexes, there is an index in the Kit build area for kits.   But a full index of MSW would be a massive undertaking...  and it changes daily with new topics.

Shipman,
 
Goto the Model Expo site and hit "kits".   It's buried in there but here's a direct link:  http://modelexpo-online.com/18th-century-longboat-with-tools-and-glue
Model Expo does post the instructions to many of their kits to their website.

Great attention to detail Greg; enjoying following this build.
 
cheers
 
Pat

And the back end fittings

I'm not sure why he gave a formula as tables for shot size, throw weight, etc. was/is available in table form.  It gets a bit murky when "length" of an inch or foot changed however. Even murkier on the cannons themselves as every country had their own ideas on how a barrel should "look".  Plus, barrel lengths even for the same shot size varied depending on the intended ship.

Yep. They look fantastic, Mark !!

A much better result Mark, the new ones look very good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

If you're doing a run of the same parts, such as, say 50 cannon, then an automated system is good as it's repeatable.  For one off's then not so much.