JerseyCity Frankie

My two or three cents about pins and pinrails: Use the smallest possible pin you can find or make, this will prevent a cascading series of scale issues from developing later. Obviously the smaller the pins, the more can be fit on a rail. Every pinrail I have seen has the pins spaced evenly about 10" apart. Any closer together and the belayed lines passed around the pins would interfere with each other and the sailors couldn't get their hands in there.
Most of the pins I see on models are too big and have en exaggerated shape and if scaled up would look like three foot high wooden lightbulbs. Most actual pins are two inches wide at most and are seldom longer than 18". They do flare out on their upper halves, but only a bit and a human hand can still grasp them- the commercially available ones all too often flare out into nearly spherical globes. Also consider that once there is a line on the pin, the pin itself is no longer visible except maybe its very top. For this  reason I mostly just use wire or rod.
An issue that always arises is the apparent low number of pins, modelers often find their accurate plans do not provide enough places for all the lines to belay to. This is a very common problem.
As mentioned above, another very common problem is not fixing your pinrail strongly enough. There isn't very much tension on them but the pinrails on models do very often pull out or distort from the accumulated strain placed on them by the rigging, which apparently over time can contract.

THE SAIL PLAN
After evaluating the historical period and other similar projects, I decided that the sail plan can be rather similar to the one made by Amati Venetian Polacre.
Other plans exist of other polacres of other countries, and the sail size are all more or less the same.
below can be seen some of the sail plans and rigging that I made with a CAD program.
I superimposed the orignal hull drawing.
The rigging is a rather complex part.
In the photos only few of the rigging that I made is showed.
Luckily, in the mid XVIII century the sail rigging was rather standardised, so I must not make too much odd hypotesis.
Note: I mirrored the top view of the hull, and evenly corrected, the drawing is still not correct.
So it means that the original drawing was probably focused on the hull drawing and only lighty on the bridges details.
 

More than 20 years ago I built from scratch a venetian xebec, from purchased plans.
The plans are available but are not made by the usual ships manufacturers.
They were made accordingly to original drawings coming from a Venetian archive.
In the photos can be seen some of the plans and the model that I made.
The model is rather big (around 90 cm long).
I always been puzzled by the strange shape of such xebec (a bit fat, hull not common on xebec).
 
Now finally I have found the original ancient drawings that originated such plans!
They are published in the book "Venetian Ships - Navi Veneziane" by Gilberto Penzo, Lint editor.
 
I discovered that the ship was a polacre, and the absence of sail plan probably generated some misunderstanding on the author of the plans thay I purchased.
The original drawings were a bit different and the typical polacre hull is more evident.
 
After that I decided to study a deep conversion of the model, in order to let it be more similar to the original one.
in the photos:
-one of the purchased plans, made in 1947 (first two photos).
-the original drawings (second two photos)
-the present model.
Well, I am not a true expert, but the final result will be less historically false than the present one, so in anycase will be a success for me!
Any critics to the project (even destructive critics!) and suggestions are always appreciated!
 

My shipyard is open again!
Now I am focusing on the standing rigging of the foremast.
-I installed two other cannons (10 more to be installed).
In one of the photos can be seen the single, double and multiple blocks that are needed for this section (one side only), in addition to the toggles for securing them to the deck.
-In other photos is shown how the cables of the standing rigging are secured to the top of the foremast.
I followed the various xebecs and galleys ancient drawings and models.
In the other photos are showed some of the them already installed.
In order to do so, I needed to prepare the ropes and blocks almost completely, before glueing them to the deck (other photos), otherwise the space available for making the various knots was not enough.
More will follow in the next days.
 

I'm a huge knot nerd and I am glad to see a conversation here about knots.  Naturally, sailors are the best at tying knots and ship model builders can only benefit by learning some of the knots of the sailor. Model builders though probably only need to know a very few knots in order to aid in rigging their ships. The Overhand Knot and the Clove Hitch being the two absolute essentials. I am a big promoter of the Constrictor Knot too as I think it easily has a place among the "top ten" most useful knots. If I was to make a short list of "least know but most useful knots" the Constrictor would be my only submission.
Sailors will argue endlessly about which are the ten knots everyone on a ship should know. They all agree the Bowline, Clove Hitch, Reef Knot, Sheet Bend and Rolling Hitch should  be on the list but will begin to argue about what the other five should be. There are so many choices. Personally I would leave the Sheet Bend off the list but I know this is a heretical opinion. I just never have any confidence in it as I have too often seen it misbehave in different types of line.

I have worked on actual schooners and there are occasions when the Throat and Peak hailyards are taken off the gaff in order to be used to lift very heavy objects aboard. In fact this process is used for every uprig and  downrig since its the best way to rig the spars on and off the boat. I image moving the guns on a cutter would be greatly simplified this way. If you think about it it makes a great deal of sense since the tackle is all set up, the crew is VERY accustomed to its use and its located perfectly. Having hooks makes its use that much easier.

My two or three cents about pins and pinrails: Use the smallest possible pin you can find or make, this will prevent a cascading series of scale issues from developing later. Obviously the smaller the pins, the more can be fit on a rail. Every pinrail I have seen has the pins spaced evenly about 10" apart. Any closer together and the belayed lines passed around the pins would interfere with each other and the sailors couldn't get their hands in there.
Most of the pins I see on models are too big and have en exaggerated shape and if scaled up would look like three foot high wooden lightbulbs. Most actual pins are two inches wide at most and are seldom longer than 18". They do flare out on their upper halves, but only a bit and a human hand can still grasp them- the commercially available ones all too often flare out into nearly spherical globes. Also consider that once there is a line on the pin, the pin itself is no longer visible except maybe its very top. For this  reason I mostly just use wire or rod.
An issue that always arises is the apparent low number of pins, modelers often find their accurate plans do not provide enough places for all the lines to belay to. This is a very common problem.
As mentioned above, another very common problem is not fixing your pinrail strongly enough. There isn't very much tension on them but the pinrails on models do very often pull out or distort from the accumulated strain placed on them by the rigging, which apparently over time can contract.

It’s a natural for ship model builders in that you can tie it in your hands even in very small line. In these photos I’m using heavier line in order to make it visible. First form an overhand loop. Note that in the photo there is a prominent loop and the two ends of the line. For the purposes of this demonstration you should think of the two ends of the line as a horizontal bar that will always remain straight. This imaginary bar is never manipulated with the fingers, only the loop is involved in tying the knot.

Here is the finished knot drawn up on a cylinder. Its nearly the same knot as the Clove Hitch but it stays tight when you pull on the ends and I actually find it easier to tie. If your tying a pair of shrouds or backstays you can tie it in the center of the line and the ends can lead port and starboard. 

I’m a big fan of the Constrictor Knot. It’s a very useful knot for fixing a line to a spar such as in the case of a stay or backstay attaching to a topgallant masthead on small models or on lighter lines on larger models. Its got a low profile and its easy to tie and when tightened it constricts as advertised. Clifford Ashley apparently invented it and its number 1249 in his book. It’s also mentioned in the original Ship Modelers Shop Notes in a Merritt Edson essay on page 187. Unfortunately the illustration included in Shop Notes tends to make the knot look difficult to tie. In fact most descriptions of the knot fail to show how easily it can be tied. Its litterly just a loop that is twisted once into a figure eight and the two lobes thus created are folded together to form the knot which can be slipped over the end of the spar in question. If the knot has a drawback it is that once tightened it can be very difficult, if not impossible, to untie. This photo shows the steps involved in tying it and below I will break down the individual steps. It may appear complex but it really boils down to a few simple hand moves.

I use the Constrictor Knot in these situations. Its a very simple, very compact, very strong knot perfect for seizing. Here is a tutorial I put up a while back on the most simple method of tying this great useful knot: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4029-the-constrictor-knot/?hl=constrictor
Tie the constrictor ahead of time in the small stuff you are using for the seizing, don't pull the knot tight yet, leave the loops wide open. Pass a bight of the heavier thread you are using for the blocks strop THROUGH the Constrictor Knots loop and then over and around your tiny little block. As mentioned above, clip your block into the holding contraption of your choice.
Pull the two ends of the Constrictor Knot tight. The knot will Constrict and from now on it will behave like a collar that will NOT loosen, you can take your hands off it and it stays put. Pull the two ends of your stropping material apart and work the Constrictor Knot down snug against your tiny little block.
The beauty of the Constrictor Knot is that it will HOLD when you tighten it. You can tug and pull it to manipulate it where you want it to go. You can use the two leftover long ends to put more turns on your throat seizing or you can just cut the ends short.

Here is the finished knot drawn up on a cylinder. Its nearly the same knot as the Clove Hitch but it stays tight when you pull on the ends and I actually find it easier to tie. If your tying a pair of shrouds or backstays you can tie it in the center of the line and the ends can lead port and starboard. 

Here is the finished knot drawn up on a cylinder. Its nearly the same knot as the Clove Hitch but it stays tight when you pull on the ends and I actually find it easier to tie. If your tying a pair of shrouds or backstays you can tie it in the center of the line and the ends can lead port and starboard. 

Thanks Augie, Mark, Bob, Sherry and Mike, and once again to all the "likes".
 
Even though it has been a long weekend here this weekend, I'm afraid I didn't get too much time in the shipyard.  I did however, get to collect my new case for Victory.  Even though I haven't quite finished her, I wanted to get her under a cover to protect her from damage and keep the dust off while I finish off the last few bits and pieces.
 
I know I could probably have made a case for a fraction of the price I paid for this (which was a lot!), but I wanted a "frameless" look for this model, so had it professionally made by a local plastics firm (Plastic Creations in Fyshwick for the local Canberrans - highly recommended).  I also decided that rather than use a wood base, I would continue the theme and had a black perspex base made at the same time, with a channel routed in it to accept the "box".  The idea of the black base (which is also partially reflective) was to tie in the black and yellow colours of the ship.  I like the effect.
 
I took a few pictures of it this afternoon, but it was getting a bit dark.  I've shown a couple of pictures here, but they don't really do it justice.
 
Here's one with only what's left of the daylight:
 

 
And here is one with the overhead downlights on. 
 

 
The table that it sits on I originally made to display my Cutty Sark model.  I think the timber is Yellow Stringy Bark if memory serves me correctly.
 
While I had the camera out, I thought I may as well take a picture of the Cutty Sark that has sat proudly in this position (just inside the front door) for many years until usurped by Victory.  This was a Billings kit and was my first serious foray into wooden ship building. As such, it is fairly basic - if only I knew then what I know now!  The case that this one is in I made myself. It has survived four house moves, including from one side of the country to the other and back again.  The only damage it received was to the rigging on one move, which I then replaced and did a better job on.  Even so, when I look at that rigging compared to Victory, it seems ever so basic.  It is now in the lounge room as a "temporary" measure until we figure out what to do with it. A "Viking Funeral" is still on the cards..........
 

 
You can see in the reflection of this photo my wife's collection of stuffed animals - they at least are an appreciative audience!
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
With the limited time I did manage in the shipyard this weekend, I did manage to paint the internal hull of the Pinnace, fit the Risers for the thwarts, and fit the previously made footling.
 

 

 
I'm now making up some gratings to fit, using 1/32" pear stock that Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill made up for me some time ago.  It's the same stuff that I used on the Launch.  Hopefully I'll get that installed next weekend and then be ready to paint the exterior of the hull before moving on to the fittings.
 
 

Many years ago I saw a Bounty Launch with Bligh's uniform coat draped over the thwart in the stern sheets.  It was pretty ingenious, just some blue paper cut into the shape of a coat with buttons and epaulets made of gold foil, draped over the seat. There were no figures and no other personal items that I can recall. Maybe a telescope? Wish I had thought of that.

I'm reading in Anatomy of the Ship Victory that in 1805 there were 22 midshipmen to be crammed in, I wonder where they put them all? There were nine Lieutenants and seven Masters Mates too. There were fourteen other guys who probably didn't normally swing in a hammock in with the great unwashed crew too, Marine officers and the surgeons party and a bunch of others. Lots of people to have to shoehorn in!

I'm reading in Anatomy of the Ship Victory that in 1805 there were 22 midshipmen to be crammed in, I wonder where they put them all? There were nine Lieutenants and seven Masters Mates too. There were fourteen other guys who probably didn't normally swing in a hammock in with the great unwashed crew too, Marine officers and the surgeons party and a bunch of others. Lots of people to have to shoehorn in!

Build log part 18
 
 
 
 

forecastle railing painted
 

looking at her from the floor of the shipyard float-dock
 

plan crosscheck and flags hoisted
 

Hamburg homeport Flyer above bowpost
 

These are sand buckets for distinguishing funnel blow sparks and glimming particles falling down on decks. The bucket-racks go to the upper Bridge deck area. (sorry for the Background colour)
 

this is second officer, Louis Fretwurst, comming from his inspection round, after recognizing that certain steering chain links will Need to be replaced soon, due to wear..., when the wheather calms down
 

Machine assistant, Kurt Heilmann, is looking dowm from the boatdeck whilst Standing over the area where the steering steam engine is situated in the deckhousing beneath
 

mess Steward, Johannes Steffens, is looking over the starboard side, dreaming of Christmas back home with his Family
 

My grandfather (yellow coat, Holding binoculars) is watching out for icebergs this time of the year, whilst first officer, Richard Andreis, mid Bridge, with beard, is having a watchful eye on the Forward workdeck where donkeyman, Heinrich Grunewald, is securing the second hatch winch- and loadbeam tackle
 

Stern (White) Nav. light mounted, Stern flagpost and Mooring clamps mounted
 
 
Building log part 19 to follow...

Build log part 49
 
 
 
This now last part of my build rounds up the posted Build log before the model goes into its glasss case and is now situated on a shelf behind my work desc.
 
I would like here to thank all fellow MSW mates for dropping in, and who showed interest for this model and who expressed their likes by clicking the appropriate button, and even more for all those lovely appreciative comments, encouragements and suggetions along with the build sequences.
If there should be any postbuild questions adressed to my behalf, please feel free to do so, I shall be pleased to answer asap.
 
Regards
 
Nils
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Auf wiedersehen
 
 
Nils

Some more time on the mast in the last few days.  The mast bands are black acid-free paper.  They will be painted with an "Iron Black" paint.  The battens are filed out to allow for them to fit over the mast bands.  Two on each side, clamped while glue dries.  Cap drilled, simulated bolts installed and the eyebolts made and installed.
The mast tree parts were sanded to thickness and cut on the Byrnes table saw.  Interlocking notches carefully laid out and cut.  Bolt holes drilled.  The cross tree notches were cut last after the trestle trees were held in place against the mast top.  Getting close to the end.  Some more bolts need installing and the bibs need attaching.  I'm not sure if I'll build the platform.
Maury
 
 

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

True enough we're 1000kms from the nearest salt water but there is indeed a model ship club in Edmonton! We're celebrating our 30th anniversary this year.

Alberta Ship Model Society
http://albertashipmodelsociety.ca
 
 
Brian

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.

I’m happy to see the topic discussed since one seldom sees baggywrinkle, or any chafe gear of any kind, depicted on a model. Probably this is due to its not being shown on rigging plans.
I have used brown paper glued over bits of line on the model to simulate leather chafe gear but the only baggywrinkle I put on any of my models was on ship in a bottle models of schooners. As a joke I made the baggyrinkle on THOSE models out of a tiny slice of  rope yarn. Thus it was made out of real baggywrinkle.
I hate to be the guy that suggests a technique I have not actually ever tried or seen done, but here goes: On a large scale model one could almost make real baggywrinkle? One could shave off 1/32” rope fibers from the yarn of a tight laid natural fiber line, and drag a thread dipped in glue through the pile of fibers. When dry the thread could be spiraled around a quarter lift or wherever.