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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. I made a temporary cradle: Using Legos for jigs and cradles is one of the things I learned about, on this forum. The Oryol sits relatively flat and level on the cradle. After skinning, I will probably modify the cradle and use it until I make an actual base for the Oryol. The forward most decks are on now:
  2. All parts are sealed now. Found a few parts that I missed on the first round of laminating, so they’ll need to be laminated up and sealed on the back. Getting the first round of decks prepared: And fairing the hull for covering (as with all POB models). I am also going to add thin card strips to the bulkheads and faux decks to have more to glue the hull covering to.
  3. The framework is pretty much done now: I believe that everything that needs laminated is now laminated. It is about time to seal all the parts in advance.
  4. Thank you very much, Jolle! Thank you very much for all the likes and for stopping by! I’m working on getting everything laminated up and sealed on both sides. That was something that I could have improved on when building the Solferino, doing all that in advance. I also have to decide on a base for this one and take contour measurements for the cradle.
  5. Thank you very much, OC! Thank you to all who commented, hit the like button, or stopped by! And this one is done: The figure built and painted up extremely well. The only adjustment I had to make to cover a seam was where the arm connected at the shoulder. There were no mold lines. Regarding the plane, I encountered a few problems along the way with attaching the upper wing and getting it to stay. Otherwise it built up and painted up quite nicely. I am very happy with the overall result!
  6. Thank you very much, Alan! I got the Eddie Rickenbacker figure in the mail today! It’s a super nice resin kit. This is my first Campaign Miniatures figure kit, but it is definitely top notch.
  7. Don’t forget the beeswax to coat your rigging line! It makes the rigging line easier to handle and keeps it from fraying.
  8. Thank you very much! The frame is glued together, painted the black sections black and am starting to add the rest of the framing pieces: Here in the near future I am going to preemptively seal everything and I might get everything that needs laminated, laminated in advance.
  9. Yves, It is the process of layering up card to build up the right thickness. I use a thin film of pva glue and put the pieces under glass with books on top to make everything dry flat. Most pieces are three layers thick so far. I also let each layer dry individually before building up another layer to minimize warping.
  10. The primary framework is cut out and test fitted. Everything went relatively smoothly with the framework assembly, especially once I started putting the faux decks in place. Before then, the thinner sections became weak points. Now, even not glued, the frame is relatively strong. Once it gets glued, this thing will be solid as a rock.
  11. All bulkheads are laminated up, cut out and test fitted: Next up: the faux decks, which are now laminated up, need cut out and test fitted!
  12. Mike, The Admiral decorates with them, for which I am extremely grateful. She doesn’t often request something specific, but when she does, I get to building quickly. Jeff, I went on a buying spree of predreadnought and ironclad card kits and plans after building the ironclad Solferino, also by Orel. I discovered a whole era of Naval history that I didn’t know even existed. I had seen the predreadnoughts by Deans Marine and that kit of the Olympia that I built, but I knew next to nothing about Naval history from the European side for most of the 19th century and into the early twentieth century. I found these kits because @ccoyle kindly sent me an Amazon link for HMV’s kits and Orel’s predreadnought kits showed up under suggestions of things I might like. I have bought five of them now. Inspired by those, I bought two more sets of plans from AAMM of a late 19th century battleship and a steam powered three decker. I have learned so much about model ship building, and the possibilities out there, including that card models are a viable and legitimate form of ship modeling, from this forum. I strongly recommend @Ab Hoving’s card modeling from scratch tutorial on this forum. It got me started on card ships. I have completed four card ships now and I hope that I am just getting started.
  13. Ken, This is my fourth build using corrugated cardboard for structural members. Once the frame is glued it is quite rigid and structurally sound. Once the hull covering is on and dried, the hull is as solid as a wood model. Only the center keel is corrugated on this one. It was supposed to be 2mm thick. The others are supposed to be 1mm thick. I only damaged the center plate because I tried to manhandle it to make something fit, so it was my own fault. This model has 3-4 layers of longitudinal shaping pieces too. The hull will be quite structurally sound. OC, I appreciate the sentiment. The fiddly part is all the detail parts, then, if this is anything like my last predreadnought, I’ll have to careful to only handle the model by its base.
  14. Working on cutting out and fitting bulkheads and structural members. It’s slow going, but that is to be expected. And I accidentally ripped the center plate in three pieces, so it’s drying now, after being repaired. All of the remaining hull structural pieces are laminated and drying now.
  15. Thank you very much! And so begins construction: The centerplate is corrugated cardboard and is glued together! Working on laminating all the remaining hull structural pieces together and getting them cut out for test fitting.
  16. Thank you all! The beginning of all POB card ships: This one has a lot of bulkheads which is a really good thing. That will help structural integrity and prevent hull twist.
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