hollowneck

This thread is purely for my range of products, so yes, they are Vanguard Models kits.
 
A lot more details will be revealed over the next 3-4 weeks.
 
A while ago, a customer on here asked about flags, saying they would prefer flags over the free coaster.
 
The problem with this is that I do not charge for the coasters in the kits (usually put them in for the first batch of new kits), as I produce them myself.
 
I cannot produce the flags. I have been looking for a supplier of quality flags for one of my future developments, and the best pricing would add £25-30 per kit for the quality I would want for each set. This is why you get a free coaster and not free flags. I also would not pay for the flags, they are simply too much, and add too much to kit price. A coaster does not so much.

Jacek,
I've lined my gunports since leaving them entirely bare (MDF) isn't acceptable to me. I recall that @Blue Ensign indicated he labored over this task to make the linings fit. He is a consummate über-detail kind of builder, which I do respect. And, I love little details as much as anyone on the forum, however....there is a point for me where this obsession can be OTT. Confession: I lined only the bottoms of my gunports with a scratched piece of pear since this will be easily seen on viewing the model; the cannon protrude and visually occupy much of the gunport and the verticals aren't that prominent, so I didn't bother to line these side areas. The upper lining of the gunports, you ask? Who will to see and inspect this area? I know! Perhaps a ship modeling forensic specialist...
 
Each builder is his own captain, making his ship his own. That's my plan and I'm sticking to it!😂
Ron
 

Jacek,
Yes, I believe the blackening I use (in the U.S. = Birchwood/Casey brand) makes the P/E better hold an acrylic or solvent-based paint. I consider blackening like a "primer" coat. In some cases, the blackening alone is quite adequate for the task (especially very small eyebolts, rings, etc.); it does rub off but it still removes the curse of having "golden" fittings sprinkled about the model: Not kool. I'll sometimes even add a matte black paint to these small items to simulate iron.
I'm doing the chains now and I'll blacken all the P/E pieces. Then, to make this task manageable, I'm "stringing" all the pieces onto a thin wire so I can spray paint them evenly with either my airbrush or a spray can of matte black. Sure beats painting each one of these complex multi-part assemblies! This will create a consistent look to all these very prominent fittings. I did this with the chain and hand pump P/E and I believe imparts a proper "look" to these on-deck items.
 
On another matter, I've also scratch-lined my gunports; removing all that char first was a Sh$#$& task! I'm somewhat surprised that Chris didn't provide some laser pear for doing this. A minor complaint, but applying red paint to fix this really isn't a good solution - particularly for someone who doesn't want to paint all the bulwark items in screaming red. My preference: less is more in this case, like my removal of the unnecessary extra P/E decs on the stern.
 
I use the Citadel washes quite a lot (in conjunction with appropriate base colors).
 
Ciao,
Ron

Your model looks quite nice, not rushed and finished well. You really should post a build log to inspire others to build this kit.

I completely agree, nor do I.  Odd wording to use for someone like you who takes the time to share and explain his techniques.

Ye, i would have also preferred the Gunports not being Red inside, actually considering Black, ideally it would be if we could keep them unpainted but thet would require lining them up with someting, i do have a lot of pear left so maybe that will do (but looking at @Blue Ensign, he did rant something which i didnt really understand about his lining idea)

Many Happy Returns

Wow! That’s stunning work Greg! Work of art!
 
JJ

Lovey work, and another successful collaboration between you both.  Another very fine model in the making!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Wow!  No other words are necessary.

I can't add to what's been said for example another "wow".  Beautiful work well beyond most of us mere mortals.

Thanks for all the kind comments.
 
HH - the transom planking is indeed let into the aft fashion piece. The side planking is also let into the fore end of the this fashion piece. Needless to say it is a beast to make with two rebates and rolling bevels! But when done this way the end grain of the transom and side planks are both protected from seawater. Some contemporary models show it done this way and some don't but the NMM model we based this on did.
 
BE - that is indeed a pisdale which seems a bit unusual but is a feature of the contemporary model. It has a molded feature that is a continuation of the molding of the inner planking.
 
Wintergreen - I'm sure David would love to collaborate with every single member of this forum...when his plate is empty (estimate 2032).
 
Trussben - haven't rigged a model in 25 years so looking forward to that. I'm studying the work of Archjofo and hope to emulate his work.

Who wouldn't want a collaborator like David, just Wow! 🙂 

This is really wonderful work from both of you.  It is an interesting detail that the lower transom planking appears to be let into the aft-most frame, as opposed to overlaying it.

She looks fantastic Greg, cannot wait to see more of her.

You and David are surely a ship modelling dream team, beautiful work Greg.
Is that a seat of ease, or a pisdale located in the bow bulwark?
 
B.E.

Wow, incredible carvings Greg. Truly masterful. 

It's been almost a year since my last update. The reason is that Speedwell has been landlocked in Canada since last November. My very talented collaborator David Antscherl had made and applied all the carvings and I was going to pick her up to rig her just when Covid struck and the border was closed. I have all the blocks, ropes, masts and spars ready but no model. I'm hoping to get her this summer but who knows at this point. At any rate here are some photos of her sporting her wonderful carvings. 

Whoa Gentlemen! This is all going to my head😂.......(keep it coming!🤪)
Sincere thanks. I'll contribute more "updates" as I move along in lieu of a formal Build Log. There are so many great things about this kit, there's plenty more insights to come.
 
For example: just in today's build session, I've noted that it's very important to tell prospective Sphinx builders that the decision to build her as a "reveal" (open viewing through the top decks) means that one needs to seriously consider NOT Masting or RIGGING (stub masts would be o.k. simulating a "Dockyard/Admiralty" style model). I've anticipated that when I reach the masting/rigging stage that the view into these openings will be quite obscured and one will need to get perilously close to the model to actually peer into the below deck(s) goodies. One needs to consider just how much an effort should be expended with the superb interior details if they're going to rig this beauty.
 
I should note that I am building the HMS Sphinx kit as HMS Camilla, a sister ship of nearly identical dockyard specs. I also need to mention that my model is being built also as a waterline/diorama model wherein, 80% below the waterline won't be seen. This should explain why there is no finished planking running to the keel/garboard area.
 
Enuff for now!
Ron

Bob,
Thanks for the shout out. I plan to take photos of the entire project as it moves along. There is a lot of interest in dioramas and I agree there isn't much detail since I believe there aren't many ship modelers who are comfortable with this creative aspect. I understand this as I had reservations myself a few models ago. It does add significantly to the build time. It can also add additional money to projects too, depending on the materials and size of presentation.
 
As I post for my HMS Camilla over the next couple months and as I get to post-rigging and sails, I'll keep a sharp weather eye on interest for more detail on how I create my water/maritime scenarios. I plan to complete my model with set sails BEFORE I build its setting.
 
Ron

Bob,
Thanks for the shout out. I plan to take photos of the entire project as it moves along. There is a lot of interest in dioramas and I agree there isn't much detail since I believe there aren't many ship modelers who are comfortable with this creative aspect. I understand this as I had reservations myself a few models ago. It does add significantly to the build time. It can also add additional money to projects too, depending on the materials and size of presentation.
 
As I post for my HMS Camilla over the next couple months and as I get to post-rigging and sails, I'll keep a sharp weather eye on interest for more detail on how I create my water/maritime scenarios. I plan to complete my model with set sails BEFORE I build its setting.
 
Ron

Whoa Gentlemen! This is all going to my head😂.......(keep it coming!🤪)
Sincere thanks. I'll contribute more "updates" as I move along in lieu of a formal Build Log. There are so many great things about this kit, there's plenty more insights to come.
 
For example: just in today's build session, I've noted that it's very important to tell prospective Sphinx builders that the decision to build her as a "reveal" (open viewing through the top decks) means that one needs to seriously consider NOT Masting or RIGGING (stub masts would be o.k. simulating a "Dockyard/Admiralty" style model). I've anticipated that when I reach the masting/rigging stage that the view into these openings will be quite obscured and one will need to get perilously close to the model to actually peer into the below deck(s) goodies. One needs to consider just how much an effort should be expended with the superb interior details if they're going to rig this beauty.
 
I should note that I am building the HMS Sphinx kit as HMS Camilla, a sister ship of nearly identical dockyard specs. I also need to mention that my model is being built also as a waterline/diorama model wherein, 80% below the waterline won't be seen. This should explain why there is no finished planking running to the keel/garboard area.
 
Enuff for now!
Ron

HMS SPHINX Build Comments & Observations
 
Note:
This post is not specifically a “What’s In The Box” Kit Review. The photos and comments have been prepared by ship modeler, Ron Neilson, in lieu of a full Build Log.
 
A Quick Summary by one modeler:
 
Although I am only about halfway through my build of the latest Vanguard Models kit, HMS Sphinx, and while I have made some of my own modifications (as any builder does), the process thus far has been excellent, thanks to the high-quality of this kit.
Many precisely cut pieces of mostly MDF and decent quality Swiss Pear have been provided. As I was building up the basic and extensive hull forms, I constantly referenced my calipers to double-check the fitting of parts. At first, I couldn’t believe the precision of these elements. In many cases, I measured +/- .005 – which is quite extraordinary. The construction in some areas is “Lego-like,” that is, “plug ‘n’ play.” This aspect of the fundamental hull “skeleton” also helps maintain precision tolerances across the entire length and breadth of the 1/64 ( 3/16” = 1 foot) model. The kit’s provided building jigs - which you assemble separately - are also very useful.
As witness to the unique design innovations embodied in the kit, what is shown in these photos was completed in less than forty-five days. I’d estimate that in the recent past, a model of similar complexity and scale would have taken me nearly twice the time. Vanguard has created a stunningly high-quality kit that can be crafted by any journeyman ship modeler with a moderate level of perseverance.
 
Precise, laser cut pear wood is employed throughout the build. The delicate “rails” along the hull are provided as pre-cut patterns which is a very interesting approach to creating these necessary elements. All gunports (22 including the bridle ports) align nicely with the layered approach to building up the bulwarks to faithful thickness. A single piece gundeck is delicately and precision-etched to indicate the tapered planking, trunnels included. The deck furniture pieces are all in pear and because they are lasered from similar stock, all match, beautifully. Although slightly tricky to align properly, the design of the amidships chain pump handle mechanism is brilliant. The same applies to the über-detailed hand pumps. Both are P.E mini-masterpieces that will be fun to build.
 
There is nice detail on the ironwork components. The deck coamings, hatches, bitts and various support stanchions lend themselves to nice extra detailing. The quarter galleries are always a challenge to fabricate, but the design in this kit is the best I’ve encountered thus far in years of building this era of sailing ships. The detail of the tiered P/E roof tiling is especially nice.
The severe stern tuck was worth the effort, the built-up rudder and cleverly-designed ironwork for the gudgeons and pintles is evident on close inspection.
 
The headworks are exquisitely designed and detailed with a combination of precision laser-etched pear pieces. I was impressed once more at the close tolerances of all these items that fit together like a glove. The single-piece upper stern cabin resin cast decoration is very clever and a definite showpiece of the model.
 
The extensive, decorative elements of this model are what will draw many modelers to make the investment in both time and treasure to build it. The sweep of the ship’s lines is very appealing; I can imagine that in real life, this was a gorgeous ship to behold, indeed. The clever design engineering, the fastidious manufacturing, excellent materials and comprehensive guidance provided in this high-calorie kit (the build manual and extensive, full-size plans) is exemplary; cleverness and ingenuity abounds throughout.  Did I mention the large, full-color, clearly photographed, 144-page Build Manual accompanied by twenty-three (count ’em!) extensive, full-size, actual scale (1:64) large plans? It boggles the mind initially when one opens the heavy (insert weight in pounds- 15lbs?) and sturdy box of goodies. The manual and plans alone must weigh 3 pounds. What kit manufacturer does this? Vanguard Models does. And there will be countless builders who want, need and can afford the exemplary challenges this kit provides. Regarding money, this kit’s ultimate value is that it can potentially deliver a museum-quality model and thus, in my world, it’s a bargain at twice the price.
 
The HMS Sphinx kit stands as the current pinnacle of Vanguard Models’ superb and innovative work over the last many years by the U.K.’s dedicated and well-regarded ship model kit designer, Chris Watton.
———-
The photos aren't in a chronological sequence, only random shots I've taken during my build to the date of this post. There will be more commentary and photos to come as I make more progress with my fun build. And why spend many solitary hours at this challenging hobby if it isn’t fun?

Yikes! Gives new meaning to "flyspecs in the pepper"!
 
Now, we've seen 1/200, and 1/350. What about 1/700?....any takers?
 
Ron

In California it's called the "CAT" (California Added Tax).😂...if the kit wood has too much residual resin, it could combust in UPS trucks.
 
Ron
PS I'm "From" California, so I know the ropes.