Ron Burns

Thank you for all that Chuck. I can't get over your attention to the finest details. You must have Winnie so dis-assembled and reassembled in your mind that it would blow us normal mortals away just thinking about these things  Personally I like the the way she is displayed without them visible but for Winnie II it will be great to have the option.

Fred, What a beautiful, beautiful ship you have here with your Winnie II! I agree with you, all of those gratings and ladders would cry out if painted. They look stunning!

Oh how I regret not following that advice! Poplar as Chuck and everyone suggests. Birch will cause you no end of sanding and filing and expended muscle power.  

What an astounding comeback! You don't play around do you Tom? Truly fascinating watching you do your thing. I can't wait to see

your Winnie II come together. I get heck just cutting a few planks from the other half...I can only imagine the amount of dust you are going to kick up!

Ron

Kiyoo,

Thank you for all of your efforts! Your methods are very intriguing. I will send you a PM shortly. 

Best regards

Ron

Jan, welcome to the group! The Winnie is turning out to be a most beautiful model. I look forward to watching you build her

Ron

6 hours ago, bruce d said:

The Hyuda spec includes a variable speed 200w motor. This sounds like a good thing but what it doesn't mention is the drive system

Hi Bruce, 

Thank you for the response! I believe the drive is toothed, if what you refer to is the belt and pully driving the blade. Have a peek here - Spares

All the best

Ron

1 hour ago, druxey said:

I'm surprised that you can't source a Proxxon in Canada. Try:

I have no problem finding a Proxxon here at all. Before I spend my money on something I'm a bit iffy on, I just want to cover a few more bases. I've read that some folks aren't that happy with the FET and say the older model is better than the newer. I really am curious about the Hyuda. Thanks for the links

21 minutes ago, Stuntflyer said:

I'll leave that for the experts

Please give yourself a pat on the back! Along with myself you probably have the entire site watching your model come together with envy

1 hour ago, Gregory said:

I'm happy with the Proxxon FET,  that Hyuda looks like it would be worth a try..  Better than doing without if you can't  spring for Byrnes at this point.

I'm almost leaning that way as they have spare parts available like motor, fence, speed controller etc. Don't know if that is a courtesy or a warning

Hi everyone

I know this topic has been beaten to death... almost. I'm the proud owner of a Aliexpress DC table saw with a 895 12-24V motor. Needless to say, this thing is a PITA!

It's time to replace it. Ultimately I want a Jim Saw. Being Canadian, our dollar, shipping, probable duties etc. sadly make this out of reach. Next in line is the Proxxon FET which comes in, here in Canuck land about 300CDN less. My question is, has anyone ever had any experience with the Hyuda brand? I've only seen them for sale by an Australian company here Ausee Machines and Tools . The machine looks like a Proxxon rip with a few improvements but the price is too good to be passed over. Even with shipping it's less than the Proxxon. If any of our Australian friends have seen one, what do you think? Any other machines worth looking at? 

Ron

Greg, she's coming along beautifully! Looks like you're really mastering the planking. 

That sure is a *very* interesting cross section! Amazing woodwork and masonry. The bricks are individually placed and mortar of some kind between?

Ron

Your memory is good  Chuck did have the resin castings on his site but they seem to be misplaced now. I'm sure they will be back up soon. In the meantime I can get mine out and check. You're looking at 4mm right where it's seated and 7 mm (roughly) at the feet of the figurehead. Hope this helps

Ron

On 3/10/2021 at 10:37 PM, Jorge Diaz O said:

Cheer up, don't win this damn cancer, your model is looking great. And on the micro saws, try the Proxxon, they are the best.

 

Jorge, I'm going to beat this thing! The saw is another hurdle soon to be overcome. I was leaning towards the Proxxon FET and if things really pick up, the Byrnes saw. 

12 hours ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

An old modeller told me that it is better to work symmetrical on both side to avoid torsion of the hull.

It would make me crazy doing it a plank at a time on each side! You think that drying adhesives shrinking would apply that much torsion onto the hull to actually twist it? I would be inclined to perform an experiment one day just for fun to see if it will happen.

On 3/11/2021 at 11:55 AM, wyz said:

Welcome back Ron.  I wondered why you hadn't posted in a while

Thanks for the welcome back Tom  That Byrnes saw sure is tempting but I have to wait a bit more. How's your Winnie prep going?

On 3/10/2021 at 11:17 PM, scrubbyj427 said:

You’re almost to the really fun part!!

JJ, I can't wait to flip her onto her back  

What a beautiful sight! Now I need to go through your entire build log

Hi everyone,

Just a small post to say I'm not dead in the water...While I was waiting for 1/4 inch stock to arrive, I re-built the wales (again). I'm gonna put a III after my

name representing how many times I need to do things to get them ok! I jumped the gun a bit and did the complete wales including paint. The darn Canuck posties take their sweet time delivering stuff so I had some time. This time around, using true 1/4" stock the strakes kind of worked out. I'm almost satisfied but will keep trying on the opposite side to get it better. After all the radiation and chemo, the pain has settled in now with a will! Doc says the cancer hasn't come back. Damage to nerve endings and swelling etc. has me banging my head against a wall. Whenever I get a pain free minute or 3 I try to do a bit on Winnie. With luck this will let up soon and things will start getting done! First thing I will do when I get over this and back to making money is get a Byrnes saw! I want to toss this piece of crap Asian mini-saw so far! I can cut things well enough with very good results but there is no repeatability. Move the fence and it will take a ton of trial and error and waste to get it back to where it was. Imagine...Allen keys and wing nuts to tighten both ends of a fence! Just shoot me! 

Happy to hear you're staging a Winnie comeback  I've been plonking along at a snail's pace with this damn C-word recovery and pain seems to be it's middle name. My wife says it makes me a bit cantankerous but I say it builds character! Way to punch through it and keep going Tom!

Sorry to jump in so late but that pull deserves a standing ovation! (as do the rest of your modeling wonders)

Thanks for showing us how it's supposed to be done

Ron

Near flawless as usual JJ  Thanks for sharing!

When soldering, the piece being soldered too needs to be heated to the point where solder will flow of its own volition. If you have a weak iron, insufficient heat will always result in improperly soldered, cold joints. In my 40 years of experience as an electronics tech, I have seen more damage done by crappy irons. Almost all of the medium to good quality butane irons have variable heat output. I have used silver solder, standard rosin core solder, tin and lead etc and the theory is always the same. Clean well, pre tin if needed or possible and then bring both pieces up to the temp. point where the solder flows between them forming a bond. I think it's nice to have the horsepower if needed and delicacy as well. One doesn't need a plug, I've used them in -25c weather outside and in the rain. I've used them on 30K mixing boards and 18 inch sub woofers, JBL W-Bins etc etc. I've also used mine to bend .5mm veneer strips and many other things. Thats my rant  

I've always been a fan of butane powered soldering irons. A relatively good one can be had for a reasonable price. I say it's good as I have always been in situations where I never had an outlet, or what I had (iron wise) never had the stones to properly solder what I was doing. A butane iron generally comes with multiple tips , a heat nozzle and can be used as a small precision torch. Soldering brass is a breeze as are smaller delicate items as the temp is completely variable. And did I say...no waiting to heat up

WOW!I received one of the Thermopylae for a Christmas present in 1975. I was 13 and yep, it was way too much for me to chew at that time. Good looking ship! Nice memory

Would this possibly be it?

https://www.geni.com/projects/Great-Migration-Passengers-of-the-Griffin-1633/18457

Just grasping at straws and trying to be useful

Vlad, you are a craftsman! I think your Winnie can go out dancing now and to a queen's reception very soon! Seriously, she's looking beautiful.

What scrapers did you use for your moldings?

Ron