Dr PR

Here is a tip I picked up years ago to eliminate bleed through under the tape. Suppose you have already painted one color (say black) and now you want to mask it off and paint another color (say white). If the white bleeds under the tape you will have a ragged edge between the black and white. After applying the tape paint a light thin coat of black along the tape edge. If the paint bleeds it will be black on black, and it will seal any leaks. After the black dries paint over it with the white. If you get a fine bead/ridge of dried paint where the edge of the tape was you can remove it by carefully and GENTLY scraping with a knife blade held perpendicular to the surface (scrape, not cut). Or you can sand the entire surface lightly with fine grit sandpaper and then spray a clear coat over it to get the desired finish (glossy, satin, flat).

I know I am not alone when I say there are some parts of model building that I enjoy less than others. I have seen some posts saying that hull planking is the least enjoyable task, but I will gladly plank a hull before I have to do cannon rigging! For me it is the most tedious and frustrating modeling task. I have only six small cannons on this model. I think I would go crazy trying to rig a 100 gun ship! Here is the problem: I need to rig the gun tackles between the eye bolt on the bulkhead and the eye bolt on the cannon carriage. As the ruler shows this is a distance of a little less than 3/4 inch (19 mm). I had rigged these tackles earlier, but I did not like the way they turned out. The distance between the points is so small there isn't much room for the smallest of blocks and hooks. When the guns were run out the blocks were almost two-blocked. And the small size makes handling the parts difficult. I have decided to place the guns in the stowed position, and that gives a bit more room. And I have obtained some small (not small enough) hooks to use with the blocks. Here is the plan: I am using Syren 3/32 inch blocks and Syren 3 mm hooks. These parts are very small and hard to handle. Somehow I managed to make 24 block and hook assemblies (4 per cannon) without losing any of the parts! Since these are small 6 pounder cannons I will need a simple gun tackle with two single blocks. Each block and hook assembly will be about 0.2 inch (5 mm) long, leaving about 0.375 inch (9.5 mm) between the blocks. I made two different assemblies, 12 with only the hook attached to the block with an eye in the strop, and 12 with an eye at both ends of the block, one for the hook and one for the standing end of the tackle. The rope is Syren 0.012 inch (0.3 mm) ultra tan, and the seizing is a very fine (about 0.0025 inch/0.06 mm) tan silk thread (the smallest I can find). As you can see below the assemblies came out about as planned. I used shellac to "glue" the seizing in place, and ordinary white "school glue" to fasten the rope to the sides of the block. This white glue dries clear. I did encounter one problem. One of the hook eyes broke as I was straightening the hook and block. Another stretched quite a bit (as you can see in the picture). Maybe the alcohol in the shellac softened the plastic. From now on I will use only the white school glue. Working with the small rope bundles supplied by Syren resulted in tangles almost immediately. I solved this problem by buying some bobbins at a local sewing supply store. There was a variety of types but I chose a metal bobbin with holes that made it easy to secure the loose end. I spent a couple hours carefully winding the rope onto bobbins. Each package of rope from 0.008 inch (0.2 mm) to 0.025 inch (0.63 mm) fit on a single bobbin. The larger diameter ropes (0.035 inch/0.88 mm and 0.055 inch/1.37 mm) were too large to fit on a single bobbin, but these are easier to handle without getting everything knotted up.

One word of caution about using flat/satin paints. If you plan on adding decals to the model you should use glossy paints. Decals will have a foggy appearance on the "transparent" parts if added over flat/sating paints. The background will be invisible on glossy paints. After adding the decals spray a flat or satin overcoat to seal the decals and get the dull finish.

Howard Chapelle's "The Baltimore Clipper" is the best reference for the topsail schooners from the American east coast. It has a lot of information about the construction of these vessels and many hull lines and sail plan drawings. His "The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935" is the reference for the American fishing schooners, including a 369 page reference section with hundreds of very detailed drawings of just about every part of these ships.

Ditto. Too many things to do and too little time! The air had been mostly clear in Corvallis - just a bit of smoke a few days ago. We were really lucky after the lighting storms last weekend. Six fires started west of Corvallis, but there was no wind and a tiny bit of rain. Four of the fires were out the next day, and the other two close together were quickly surrounded and put down, limited to 12 acres. And of all things they packed in a sprinkler system - in an old growth forest on a steep mountainside. That was a new one on me!

Not just the Western world. When researching my British-Canadian wife's family history (English, Scottish and Irish) we found documents referring to her Japanese father-in-law's (Keijiro Yamada from an earlier marriage) father as Chojiro Sato (yo-shi). We had no idea what "yo-shi" meant. I eventually learned that it meant that the man had taken his wife's maiden name because there were no male descendants in the wife's family. So to preserve the family name the husband assumes the bride's family name. His wife's name was Tsui Yamada. Their children all had the Yamada surname, as do all the descendants, including my step-sons and my grandchildren. So Japan has this "official" procedure for changing the family surname. We learned of this through the Heart Mountain internment camp records from WWII. If you think European genealogy can be tricky, just think what a mess American genealogy can be!

I want to repeat what Bob said - many printers do not print to scale. I had a HP laser printer that required a print scale of 1:1.043 to get it to print 1:1 on the paper. 1. Disable "fit to paper" option in the print dialog. 2. Set the scale to 1:1 (every printer manufacturer does this differently - too stupid to come up with a common method). 3. Create an image with a ruler scale in it that is known to be accurate. Best to create this with a CAD program and not a simple drawing program like Photoshop or MS Paint. Make the scale long enough to fit on the paper. For example, 8" horizontal and 10" vertical. 4. Print the test file. 5. Measure the printed ruler. Careful - the error may be small, but these errors can add up. CAUTION: Use an accurate ruler to make the measurement. Many cheap rulers are just the approximate length. Use a steel machinist's rule if you have one, or measure with a caliper. 6. Calculate the error +/-. Divide the measured length of the printed ruler by what it is supposed to be. 7. Calculate the offset +/- necessary to make the print the right scale. For example, if a 10 inch ruler prints to 9.98 inches, set the print scale in the printer dialog to 1.1002 (or 1:1.1002). 8. Repeat steps 3-7 until it comes out right. 9. Write down the necessary scale correction for the printer (put it on a stick on not on the printer). If you can, set the "Custom" scale in the printer dialog. 10. Be sure to test this with a vertical and horizontal ruler in the printed drawing. Some printers are screwed up in both directions, and the only way to correct this is to create drawings that are skewed in both directions!

I am not sure if the teak/Douglas fir lamination was used during WWII. The blueprint I took the drawing from was for the late 1950s guided missile conversions. I am sure it was a cost saving measure. In a class at Naval Officer Candidate School an instructor told us that wooden decks served to catch shrapnel splinters and prevent it from ricocheting off the steel decks. However, others have said this wasn't true, and that wooden decks were an insulating feature to prevent heating from the sun in summer and loss of heat from inside in the winter (it does work for this). And others have ventured that they put wooden decks on these ships because ships had always had wooden decks (it gives the sailors something to do by holy stoning them to keep the decks looking nice). Another explanation is that you get better traction on wood than steel, especially when the deck is wet (this is true). I have searched for a documented reason for having wood decks on steel ships and I have found no official explanation. Any other guesses? **** Walking on the studded decks while the decking is being replaced is hazardous - guaranteed stubbed toes! I speak from experience! Also, imagine the challenge of making new planks with holes correctly located to fit over several studs that are already welded to the deck.

You can try printing the red/rust on the silkspan, leaving the white silkspan to show the symbols. I haven't tried this. I would go to a local print shop and let the staff there decide if it would work.

Bob, Your recollections are she same as on my blueprints for the USS Cleveland CL-55, a WWII era ship. Of course this was a wooden deck overlaid on a steel deck and fastened down with metal studs and nuts. The planks were 2" thick. The plank edges were vertical from the bottom for 1 inch, and then angled (outage) 3/32" at the top to make a 3/16" wide gap. Oops! I thought I remembered a 3/8" wide gap between planks, so my model's deck seams might be 2x scale! I should have double checked the blueprints! The notes on the blueprint say for new planking use planks made of 1" Douglas fir with a 1" teak piece laminated on top. The outage should be 3/32" and vertical for 1/2", then tapering to zero 1 1/8" below the top of the plank. That is a bit different from the drawing. The planking was to be caulked with two strands of oakum, and a third driven in if practicable, to a depth of 1/2 inch. Then the gap was to be payed with "approved black marine glue," allowing the glue to overflow the seams for about 3/16". I wonder how far back in history this practice goes? Old nautical traditions die hard.

Jorge, I had the same questions when working on my current model. I have no idea what the width is of the caulking between deck planks on wooden vessels, especially from several centuries ago. But I do have the advantage of serving on three modern (mid 20th century) ships, and I have the original blueprints for two of them that show deck construction. The gap between planks was 3/8 inch (9.5 mm). My model is 1:48, so the grout width would be 0.0078 inch (0.2 mm). This is about the thickness of some black construction paper (0.008 inch) that I had, so that is what I used. However, before settling on this method I did a series of experiments using six different techniques that I describe in this link: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=602855 After choosing the black construction paper I added this "grout" as described here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=603771 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=605072 Planking and nibbing turned out to be very easy, and the paper gave a very consistent widths with none of the mess from liquid pigments soaking into the wood grain. I made the paper width a bit greater than the plank thickness so the paper stood a bit "proud" above the planks. I then scraped the deck with a razor blade perpendicular to the wood surface (so as not to cut into the wood) and at an angle across the plank edges to scrape away the excess paper, and then sanded to get a smooth deck. Afterward I coated the deck with a clear sealer and rubbed down with #0000 steel wool. The results look very nice to my eye, and I think the effect is to scale. You can judge this for yourself. **** At 1:72 scale a 3/8 inch grout will be 0.0055 inch (0.13 mm) and you can probably find black paper this thick or a bit thinner.

The Joyner LIbrary at East Carolina University has the full collection of plans from the Barbour Boat Works. They made just about every type of small boat used by the Navy during and after WWII, including several types of landing craft, and some not so small (destroyers). https://librarycatalog.ecu.edu/catalog/918210 http://digital.lib.ecu.edu/special/ead/findingaids/0758/ Box 42 has the plans for the LCVP. You can order them online. I have several digitized plans I got from the Joyner Library and they are excellent copies of the original blueprints.

The fife rail at the base of the fore mast was my next project. With my original belaying plan I had eleven tackles attached to ring bolts around the base of the mast and twelve lines belaying to pins on the fife rail. This was much too crowded around the mast base. All of these lines should be belayed at the base of the mast and not on ring bolts or pin rails on the bulwarks (or cleats on the shrouds). After studying several references I realized that not all of the tackles need be at the base of the mast. In particular, the fore course yard lifts and the topsail yard lifts could be rigged with the tackle between the yard arms and the mast, with the falls coming down to belay on the fife rail. This eliminated four tackles at the base of the mast. The remaining seven tackles can be arrayed around the mast without crowding. With that problem solved I could make the fife rail. The main stays (port and starboard) will belay to the metal eyes at the base of the after posts.

Well, I decided that fancy belfry was too highfalutin' for this simple vessel so I put the bell on the main mast as I originally planned. But I didn't use a separate band around the mast below the boom rest supports because that would place the bell too low and interfere with the pumps. I did want it a bit below the top of the boom rest so it didn't interfere with the bands and other fittings on the boom jaws.

It was common to drill a hole through the stem and lead the bobstay through the hole. Sometimes the bobstay was run doubled, just looping through the hole in the stem with some small stuff seizing near the stem. The other ends were spliced around a deadeye, heart or thimble with lanyards to pull them taut. In the mid to late 1800s chain replaced rope for the bobstay, and metal brackets were fastened to the stem for the chain to attach to with a shackle.

John, Thanks for the information and photos. A cruise on the Bluenose II! That is really nice! I like the position of the bell on the fore mast. I do have room there to place the bell although it is in a lot of lines leading down to belay on the fife rail. I also need to put a band around the fore mast to hold up the mast hoops and keep them from dropping down on the fife rail when the sail is not attached. Maybe I can accomplish both goals with a single fitting. I think I will give more thought to putting the bell on the main mast like your Bowdoin. It doesn't have the rigging complications. I would use a cross between the Bluenose and Bowdoin - a separate metal band around the mast below the boom rest.

I looked for examples of the ship's bell hanging from a sailing ship mast and found none. I did find some examples on 20th century ships. In fact, there seems to be very little written about the bell. But Wolfram zu Mondfeld (Historic Ship Models, Sterling Publishing, Inc., New York, 1989, page 158) does describe ships' bells and variations over the centuries. He says the bell was originally located somewhere near the stern, usually in an ornate belfry, until the 18th century when the bell moved to the bow. But, of course, he talks about ship bells, and not schooners. I looked at photos of schooner models and recent real vessels, and even there it is difficult to find photos of the bells. But I did find a few, and since schooners are a relatively new type of ship, all have the bell near the bow. I looked for a place to place a simple mount somewhere on deck on my model, and there really isn't free deck space where the bell could be mounted and not interfere with something else. But I do have bitts that form the bowsprit step. I wondered if I could extend those bitt timbers to form a belfry? I decided to experiment with a fancy belfry to see what it looks like. The original bitts and bowsprit step are shown on the right. I made a belfry that had the same dimension timbers and spacing for the bowsprit step with the bitts extended to support a cap to hold the bell. The cross piece of the step was extended to provide purchases. Over the top of the belfry is a thin strip of wood that was soaked in water and then bent using a soldering iron to heat the wood. Here is the assembled belfry before painting. The "bolts" are 8 mm brass nails. The cross piece ends are drilled to carry belaying pins. The belfry is quite a bit taller than the original bitts. The cross piece is about a foot above the deck and the entire belfry is just four feet tall. Although this isn't very high it is much taller than the other deck furniture. The galley stack, deck house and binnacle are only about three feet tall, and the bulwarks and cap rail are about three feet high. Is it just too tall for this vessel? A series of pictures follows showing the original bitts and the new belfry for comparison. Well, it does appear to stick up pretty high, but maybe not too high. The foot of the fore staysail is about 4 1/2 feet above the deck in my current plans so maybe I should raise it a bit for more clearance.. I can see no reason this belfry won't work, and it does provide a home for the bell at the bow. It is probably a bit too fancy for this mundane revenue cutter. I'll have to think about it and see if I can figure out a simpler and less obtrusive belfry.

I have been working on the boom rest for the main boom on the main mast. It is a pretty simple piece, but I had to do a bit of research before making it. The first question was whether it should circle all the way around the mast or should it be "C" shaped with the gap on the front side of the mast? I have seen both, but the "C" shaped parts were on square riggers where the driver/spanker boom does not seem to swing wide over the side. On schooners the gaff sails are often swung far out over the side to catch following winds, so I made the boom rest circular to accommodate this. How high above the deck it should be placed? Obviously it should be high enough to clear the deck furniture when the boom swings, but that is only a few feet. It seemed to me that the boom should swing high enough to pass over the head of the helmsman. I looked at several drawings in Chapelle's books that showed the deck and the boom above it, and had a scale in the drawing. From this I learned that the boom height ranged from 5 feet to 9 feet (1.5 to 2.75 meters) above the deck (lower on smaller vessels and higher on larger ships), but 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) was more common. So I decided to place the bottom of the boom rest 6 feet above the deck. The rest is a scale 6 inches (152 mm) thick, so the boom centerline will be about 7 feet (2.1 meters) above deck. Drawings and photos I have of replica vessels show from 4 to 8 supports under the boom rest, arranged symmetrically around the mast. Since this model is of a fairly small vessel I decided to use four supports. I cut the circular rest from a sheet of 1/8 inch model airplane plywood. I used plywood because I thought a piece cut from a plain sheet of wood would be fragile and probably break along the grain as I was shaping it. The plywood was three layers with grain arranged at right angles. I made the piece with no problems. In addition to glue to hold the rest in place I made a 0.040" (1 mm) dowel from a bamboo skewer. This was inserted into a glue-filled hole through the boom rest and into the mast. The wooden pin was sanded smooth with the edge of the rest and then any gaps were filled with white modeling putty. After that I cut four triangular supports from a 1/16" piece of basswood and glued them below the boom rest. When the glue dried I coated the new pieces with shellac. After that dried I painted the whole thing with the straw color paint used on the masts. Now I need a boom to place on the boom rest! Oh, I did remember to put the mast hoops on the mast before I installed the boom rest! I have been trying to decide where to mount the ship's bell. There is no space on deck for a fancy belfry, and these vessels were fairly inexpensive to build and didn't have a lot of decoration. I think I will hang the bell from the boom rest on the aft side of the mast (some lines run down the forward side to purchases on deck). I have seen several examples where the ship's bell was mounted on a mast.

Someone used to sell an emulsion of radium for upset stomachs. We had an empty bottle in the department "museum" when I was an undergraduate. Unfortunately, it caused stomach cancer and certain death. But I guess that did put an end to upset stomachs!

There is another way to make curved top rails that I saw on one of the build logs on the forum. Rather than try to cut complex curves from a sheet of wood, especially sharp curves at the transom, the fellow built the top/cap rails up from many thin wood strips that were wrapped around a solid mold. The rail was built up with many laminations glued together. The wide dimension of the strips was vertical to the plane of the rail so they were bent easily around the curves through the thin dimension of the strips. The thin strips were a bit wider than the thickness of the rail so the finished piece could be sanded to proper thickness. Additional strips were glued on until the laminated piece was the desired width of the cap rail. After sanding to thickness and sealing with shellac the laminated rail looked quite elegant. After painting you couldn't tell the rail wasn't carved from solid wood. I think he made the thin strips with a plane, cutting shavings from the edge of a thin board/plank a bit thicker than the desired top/cap rail thickness. The blade of the plane was set to create relatively thick shavings. For thin curved wood parts this method produces a piece that is much stronger that a carved part, and has no grain the piece can break along. I have used the same technique to make wooden mast hoops only 0.020 inch (0.5 mm) thick that are very strong..

rich, I don't have much experience with the Birchwood Casey Brass Black but it is easy to use and works well on brass and tin-lead solder. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19900-brass-black/?do=findComment&comment=991402 However, if you will be blackening parts with relatively large surfaces (and not just wire) I suggest you read through the thread about blackening brass on the forum. It is very important to get the metal surfaces clean to get even blackening without spots or streaks. Many people recommend etching the brass surface (there are several methods) before blackening, so the process can involve several steps.

I have the swivel head pin vise shown above and use it a lot. But it has several issues: 1. It will not hold the very small drill buts - nothing smaller than about 0.025 inch (0.6 mm). 2. If I am using several drill bits it is a nuisance to have to be switching collets back and forth. 3. It does not allow the use of long drill bits (no opening in the swivel part). This is a problem only if you are drilling very deep holes and I have done that only a few times in the last four decades. 4. Similarly, it cannot be used to hold long rods with just the end protruding from the collet. I modified my other pin vise (with a fixed wooden knob) to allow long rods and drill bits to be used. Not long ago I purchased the four piece set also mentioned above. These have turned out to be invaluable! I may use them more than the first pin vise. The smallest size will hold the tiniest drill bits (#80, 0.0135 inch/0.34 mm) firmly. They do allow the use of long bits or rods, and they can be chucked into a milling machine, drill press or lathe (however, I doubt they are made with enough precision to use with the smallest bits in a milling machine). Having said this, hand drilling with the very small bits is just asking for a broken bit! Chuck the bit all the way into the pin vise with just enough extending necessary to drill the depth needed!

Howard Chapelle's "The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935" (W. W. Norton & Company, New York, 1973, 690 pages) is an excellent reference for these fishing schooners. The 370 page "Notebook" at the back of the book has detailed drawings and descriptions of many details on these vessels.

I have used rub-on dry transfer letters as stencils for painting. I developed this technique when I couldn't find the correct colors for the lettering on a railroad engine model. 1. First I paint the surface the desired letter color. 2. When that is dry I rub on the letters. 3. Then I spray over the letters with the desired surround color. 4. After the paint is dry I lift off the rub-ons with masking tape. **** The advantages of this technique are: The rub-on letters are relatively thick and stand out on the model surface. The resulting painted letters are just a layer of paint thick. Rub-on letters can peel off when they age. Paint doesn't (shouldn't if painted correctly). You can have any color letters (paint) you want - the colors of rub-on letters are limited. Any color dry transfer letters will work. The paint flows into cracks and uneven surfaces better that dry transfer letters (or water slide decals). You do not have to cover the painted letters with a clear paint coat to prevent them from aging and turning yellow. **** Look in craft stores. I have seen large selections of fonts and sizes.

Wefalck's "chain" looks pretty good. I think the black coated wire he used adds to the impression. Also I suspect there is just the "right" twist to get appropriately sized "chain links." I have wondered how I would make very small chains for lifelines at 1:96 and if I ever get around to working on my cruiser model I will try this.