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grsjax
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grsjax reacted to Chuck in The versatility of advanced laser cutting techniques...making rigging blocks, an experiment
The issue with this technique for making blocks is all the char. You cant throw them in a block tumbler to clean it all off. That would destroy the shape of them. This is quicker than how I make my regular blocks and the shape is more consistent. But once you over tumble them to remove the char they look awful. Even if made from boxwood. So this is a great technique however for those who want to stain their blocks and even ebonize them. Then you dont have to tumble them at all. Those fancy Ebony blocks you see for sale are so expensive. But you can have some just as nice if you dip these sticks in Ebony stain or black ink and let them dry. They polish up beautifully.
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grsjax reacted to Chuck in The versatility of advanced laser cutting techniques...making rigging blocks, an experiment
Yes CNC and 3d printing has its advantages. But laser cutting at an advanced level can produce some excellent results with some creativity.
Below is an experiment of mine I would like to eventually translate to cnc. But as you can see you can achieve shapes and details with a laser cutter that most wouldnt have guessed. The double blocks below were entirely laser cut.
In fact these are laser cut using just Yellow Cedar. The color is all the laser char. A quick dip in Ebony stain and you have some really nice blocks. The laser cutting was done all four sides. Pushing the limits of the machine. Four of these little sticks took about 7 minutes or less of actual laser cutting. Thats not bad for 24 pretty acceptable double
blocks.
i would like to apply this same technique to the Hobby CNC machines out there and see if they cross over.
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grsjax reacted to Andyrew in Pinta by Andyrew - Amati - 1:65 Scale
Many years ago I built the Revell ships Pinta, Nina and Santa Maria, they had small plastic rigging Blocks, it was the first time I had rigged a plastic ship with Blocks and it led me onto building wooden ship kits. I have always liked the shape of the Pinta, a Caravel with a Square Main Sail, and this Amati version arrived here a few weeks ago. I will be building this following the Amati instructions but I do have access to the AOTS Ships of Columbus which I will use to help with the rigging. Whenever I read someone else's build I like to see what's in the box rather than having to look through other builds so here's what you get for your ....... (insert here your currency of choice, in my case £'s)
Cheers Andy
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grsjax reacted to glbarlow in Thinning Paint
I haven’t used enamel oil based paint in over a decade. Water based acrylics are far far easier to work with in multiple ways. I’d dump the old paint and get acrylics. I doubt you’d find few on MSW that would disagree.
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grsjax reacted to glbarlow in Thinning Paint
OR…you could toss the likely very old paint that came with the kit and replace it with water based acrylic available from any number of places and choose your own color combinations.
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grsjax reacted to kurtvd19 in Welcome ROPES OF SCALE a new Sponsor
Welcome to MSW as a sponsor.
Thanks for your support.
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grsjax reacted to Chuck Seiler in Sizes and shapes of casks and barrels of the Royal Navy
A couple references to barrels I have found over the years
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grsjax reacted to Chuck in Please welcome Modeler's Sawmill as our newest sponsor
Please welcome Joe as our newest sponsor. He sells precision milled wood sheets and strips. Please visit his website and have a look.
Modeler's Sawmill
Boxwood...Swiss Pear....Walnut....Cherry...Alaskan Yellow Cedar etc.
Welcome Joe!!!
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grsjax reacted to wefalck in Laserboard, what material and where to get?
I have been working with brown Canson-paper, which highly calandered, but only lightly bonded paper of 0.13 mm (=0.01") thickness. I cannot adjust the speed, only pulse length and energy, and there is no vector-cutting option. There is some charring, but it comes off quite well. Here is an example of what I am getting:
The anchors are 11 mm (= 7/16") long. I manage to cut down to about 2/100" widths, sometimes less, depends on the orientation of the part with respect to the axes of the machine.
Assembled anchors:
I have been looking for some material that is bonded, but still can be easily laser-cut, hence my interest in the PolyBak. I normally soak the Canson-paper in shellac after cutting.
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grsjax reacted to Halvor in Norden by Halvor - Billing Boats - 1:30 - First build
Buildweek 1 - entry 1
Hi there,
I just received the kit Havmågen by Billing. Since this I really the Norden, with some colours and additional decals, I chose to place it under Norden.
As I am from the Norwegian west coast, these boats are a common sight for me and I look forward to getting to know the hull shape better. In the kit a colour for painting the hull above the waterline is included, however this is not common here. So I'm wondering if I'll be able to plank it so well as not to paint it on my first build, or if I should just focus on gaining experience with this build. Any thoughts on this?
I will try to follow the building instructions closely an not make any changes other than absolutely required ones. Possibly with the exception of the painting scheme.
Next post will be unboxing and checking that all the parts are there and in good condition.
Best regards,
Halvor
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grsjax reacted to michael mott in Portuguese Val Boat
I thought this was an interesting build
Michael
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grsjax reacted to BenD in Dying/coloring rope; sources for purchase of quality rope
I'm going to be selling rope very soon. I'm hoping to open by the end of the month, Possibly early July. I'll be on the sponsors list.
Synthetics tend to do this unless you bake it afterward. My rope does not unravel like this. When you cut it with a sharp blade it will go through a rigging block without unraveling. Ease of use was one of my main concerns along with color and texture.
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grsjax reacted to BenD in What’s sharper? X Acto blade or disposal surgical scalpel?
I don't like any blades right out of the package. I use a sharpening stone to get the angle I want and then use a stropping block. When the edge is mirror shiny it's good to go for quite a while. I don't remember the last time I threw a blade out. I use the same treatment with chisels.
A good piece of stropping leather is only $10-12 on Amazon. Most come with the stropping compound.
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grsjax reacted to MrBlueJacket in New Lobster trap kit design by BlueJacket Shipcrafters
New way:
Attach the sheet of slats. Much easier, all slats are evenly spaced.
Once bent around the hoops and glued in place, it is a simple matter to trim off the edges.
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grsjax reacted to MrBlueJacket in New Lobster trap kit design by BlueJacket Shipcrafters
The new kits have laser cut hoops, base and the slats are pre-done out of laserboard so they will be nice and even. As I build this prototype, I will post updates.
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grsjax got a reaction from Canute in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Thank you all for the good wishes. The surgery went well and I am almost pain free now.
Got the first panel on the underside of the boat in place. The instructions say to very carefully line everything up to avoid twisting the frame. I was very careful but when I finished gluing the veneer to the frame sure enough the frame was slightly twisted. Looking at that very thin veneer and the very delicate frame stringers I was thinking that it was going to be impossible to get that panel unglued. I came up with a solution that actually worked and didn't destroy the boat. Lucky I used PVA glue to attach the veneer. Instead of trying to remove it I ran isopropyl alcohol along the glue line, let it sit for a few minutes and then put the boat upright on a flat surface and weighted it down all around and crossed my fingers. I seems the alcohol softened the glue enough that the parts could shift a little bit under pressure. After a full day I removed the weights and checked the alinement and everything was good.
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grsjax got a reaction from yvesvidal in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Thank you all for the good wishes. The surgery went well and I am almost pain free now.
Got the first panel on the underside of the boat in place. The instructions say to very carefully line everything up to avoid twisting the frame. I was very careful but when I finished gluing the veneer to the frame sure enough the frame was slightly twisted. Looking at that very thin veneer and the very delicate frame stringers I was thinking that it was going to be impossible to get that panel unglued. I came up with a solution that actually worked and didn't destroy the boat. Lucky I used PVA glue to attach the veneer. Instead of trying to remove it I ran isopropyl alcohol along the glue line, let it sit for a few minutes and then put the boat upright on a flat surface and weighted it down all around and crossed my fingers. I seems the alcohol softened the glue enough that the parts could shift a little bit under pressure. After a full day I removed the weights and checked the alinement and everything was good.
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grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Thank you all for the good wishes. The surgery went well and I am almost pain free now.
Got the first panel on the underside of the boat in place. The instructions say to very carefully line everything up to avoid twisting the frame. I was very careful but when I finished gluing the veneer to the frame sure enough the frame was slightly twisted. Looking at that very thin veneer and the very delicate frame stringers I was thinking that it was going to be impossible to get that panel unglued. I came up with a solution that actually worked and didn't destroy the boat. Lucky I used PVA glue to attach the veneer. Instead of trying to remove it I ran isopropyl alcohol along the glue line, let it sit for a few minutes and then put the boat upright on a flat surface and weighted it down all around and crossed my fingers. I seems the alcohol softened the glue enough that the parts could shift a little bit under pressure. After a full day I removed the weights and checked the alinement and everything was good.
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grsjax got a reaction from bruce d in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Thank you all for the good wishes. The surgery went well and I am almost pain free now.
Got the first panel on the underside of the boat in place. The instructions say to very carefully line everything up to avoid twisting the frame. I was very careful but when I finished gluing the veneer to the frame sure enough the frame was slightly twisted. Looking at that very thin veneer and the very delicate frame stringers I was thinking that it was going to be impossible to get that panel unglued. I came up with a solution that actually worked and didn't destroy the boat. Lucky I used PVA glue to attach the veneer. Instead of trying to remove it I ran isopropyl alcohol along the glue line, let it sit for a few minutes and then put the boat upright on a flat surface and weighted it down all around and crossed my fingers. I seems the alcohol softened the glue enough that the parts could shift a little bit under pressure. After a full day I removed the weights and checked the alinement and everything was good.
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grsjax got a reaction from Old Collingwood in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Thank you all for the good wishes. The surgery went well and I am almost pain free now.
Got the first panel on the underside of the boat in place. The instructions say to very carefully line everything up to avoid twisting the frame. I was very careful but when I finished gluing the veneer to the frame sure enough the frame was slightly twisted. Looking at that very thin veneer and the very delicate frame stringers I was thinking that it was going to be impossible to get that panel unglued. I came up with a solution that actually worked and didn't destroy the boat. Lucky I used PVA glue to attach the veneer. Instead of trying to remove it I ran isopropyl alcohol along the glue line, let it sit for a few minutes and then put the boat upright on a flat surface and weighted it down all around and crossed my fingers. I seems the alcohol softened the glue enough that the parts could shift a little bit under pressure. After a full day I removed the weights and checked the alinement and everything was good.
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grsjax got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Thank you all for the good wishes. The surgery went well and I am almost pain free now.
Got the first panel on the underside of the boat in place. The instructions say to very carefully line everything up to avoid twisting the frame. I was very careful but when I finished gluing the veneer to the frame sure enough the frame was slightly twisted. Looking at that very thin veneer and the very delicate frame stringers I was thinking that it was going to be impossible to get that panel unglued. I came up with a solution that actually worked and didn't destroy the boat. Lucky I used PVA glue to attach the veneer. Instead of trying to remove it I ran isopropyl alcohol along the glue line, let it sit for a few minutes and then put the boat upright on a flat surface and weighted it down all around and crossed my fingers. I seems the alcohol softened the glue enough that the parts could shift a little bit under pressure. After a full day I removed the weights and checked the alinement and everything was good.
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grsjax got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Sorry about the long delay getting back to my build log. Had problems with my back and ended up in the hospital. Recovery from the surgery took longer than expected. Almost back to normal now and will start posting some pics soon.
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grsjax got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Finished putting the frame together
The process of building the frame was pretty straight forward. Clamping was a challenge for some of the stringers as there is very little room to get a clamp in. Ended up using mini bulldog clamps and pieces of scrap to get everything set.
Only ran into one issue and that was with the sponson rail (part 12) it is a two piece part that meets in the middle at the bow. It wanted to flex slightly into a shallow peak instead of making a smooth curve. This is a problem that can be solved by placing a short piece of stringer on top of the battens at the bow and gluing the top batten to it. The below picture shows the fix.
Next up is sanding all of the mating surfaces smooth and some initial paint work on the side rails and cockpit.
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grsjax got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Sea Flea by grsjax - Osborn Models - 1:12 scale - hydroplane
Time to get down to building this model. First step is to build up the basic ladder frame that is the foundation for everything else.
These are the parts of the frame. The transom and frames attach to the side rails. The assembly is almost self aligning but care has to be taken that everything is straight before gluing things up.
First step is to glue the transom (6) to the transom frame (5) and frames 2 and 3 together. Next the frames are attached to the rails. The notches in the frames are cut so that a minimum of sanding is needed to get things to go together smoothly.
The addition of the 3 bottom battens and a couple of stringers and the basic frame is complete. I did make a mistake here. Although the notches all fit perfectly it is necessary to make sure that each frame is fully seated in the rails when you glue them. I failed to check this so had to go back and unglue a couple of frames and reset them. This is one reason I prefer PVA glue to CA. Much easier to correct these mistakes.
One thing I think would have been a small improvement is beveling the aft end of the rails. They fit fine as is but they actually join the transom frame at a slight angle and a bit of beveling would have made a better joint.
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