grsjax

There is one question that made my mind fluffy ... dead eyes 3-4mm dia ... from different reasons I don`t want to order and to by them ... at another side, to make them from wood - impossible mission for me. So - what to do?
And idea comes after couple months braking my head
On photos I present only idea and testing of idea, with non-adequate ropes and knots
I found brass pipes with inside dia 1mm and 2mm ... and thinking ... oneo to other, I have got 3-4mm outer dia ...

 
Soldering three of them in triangle form

Cut this structure on desired width and clean holes, and I got this!

Playing arround with first "rope" I found in home, just to try

Ok, it can be painted ....
And just testig does it work

 
And I think this will be final soolution for me
 

There will be an announcement made here on MSW when the business reopens.  Donna has asked that people do not call or email until then.
 

I came across this mini drill press the other day, It isn't as elegant looking as the one above, but it's rated at 120W/450 RPM as compared to the one above at 30W/4800 RPM, has a drilling depth (quill stroke) of 42mm (1.65") versus 13mm on the above one, and it has an adjustable depth stop on it.  $67.00 (w/ free shipping from Los Angeles) Mini Bench Drill Press Precision Table Milling Machine Portable Driller DIY 120W | eBay

I would suggest that anybody who is thinking of a mini drill press and an x/y table might want to consider Vanda Lay Industries' offerings. They started with a CNC'd aluminum mini drill press that holds a Dremel moto-tool (or any other rotary tool including the 1" Foredom flex shaft handpieces (which I'd consider a much better alternative than the Dremel) and their "system" has grown now to include a milling machine that doubles as a drill press and has x, y, and z tables, as well as a mini lathe option. I have their drill press with a Dremel in it and it is a high-quality piece of equipment, perhaps more than the Dremel moto-tool deserves. The Foredom handpieces would provide more accuracy and torque at lower speeds than the Dremel. See: HOME (vanda-layindustries.com)

Adding a couple of additional kits.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.
Amati Nave Egizia scale 1:50  $75
Amati Bireme Greca Scale 1:35  $75

It used to film here regularly until the main star was accused of sexual misconduct against many female performers over the years. I must add though, that I think he was exonerated of the charges. But it still stuffed his career.
 

Yes, shipping would probably be US$30 or $40.  Lot of money for a $75 kit.
BTW I have been watching the Dr. Blake Mysteries on TV lately.  Takes place in Ballarat.

Adding a couple of additional kits.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.
Amati Nave Egizia scale 1:50  $75
Amati Bireme Greca Scale 1:35  $75

Yes, shipping would probably be US$30 or $40.  Lot of money for a $75 kit.
BTW I have been watching the Dr. Blake Mysteries on TV lately.  Takes place in Ballarat.

Adding a couple of additional kits.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.
Amati Nave Egizia scale 1:50  $75
Amati Bireme Greca Scale 1:35  $75

Adding a couple of additional kits.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.
Amati Nave Egizia scale 1:50  $75
Amati Bireme Greca Scale 1:35  $75

Adding a couple of additional kits.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.
Amati Nave Egizia scale 1:50  $75
Amati Bireme Greca Scale 1:35  $75

Adding a couple of additional kits.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.
Amati Nave Egizia scale 1:50  $75
Amati Bireme Greca Scale 1:35  $75

Keep the Atlas.  You can turn wood on it no problem.  Just clean the wood chips out of the lathe when you are done.  There is a Facebook group for Atlas lathes that you might find useful for info and finding parts.  Lots of Youtube videos about Atlas lathe operation and repair.
 
Check out this website for wood turning on a metal lathe. https://www.lathematters.com/turning-wood-on-a-metal-lathe/

The hatch was not too difficult other than cutting accurate miters on 1/16 x 1/16 strip wood.   That cabin was a problem.  The kit provided a solid block of wood that matched the overall dimensions but I struggled with the window frames.  Eventually I decided to make them from cards stock and I was lucky enough to have some brass rings in my parts box that were a good fit for the portholes. 

someone missed the crew:
 

Thanks @flying_dutchman2 and @Baker.
 
My son just sent his photographic interpretation of my pinas-wreck:

Hope you like it as much as I do...

Ab,
Can't wait to see your photoshopped final! kool.
 
I was going to place my latest into a diorama depicting a shipwreck on a jagged outcropping, the result of being at the mercy of a storm that drove her into the rocks: dismasted, sails in the water, ships's boat dashed in pieces, sailors scrambling to grab onto some flotsam... but I changed my mind when I had completed Grecian's hull. I just couldn't do it with this model. The topsail schooner's lines were too beautiful to sacrifice her to the sirens.
Perhaps some other model that's less attractive since I still would like to attempt this portrayal in one of my dioramas.
On The rocks? Not!
 

While staying in hospital early this year as a result of open heart surgery and therefore confronted with the finitude of life, I got the idea to picture a ship that was apparently also at the end of its existence. Some weeks earlier I had started another pinas and I used the unfinished hull for just that purpose. But the only thing I could do was to give it a broken rig. It became soon clear to me that if you really want to build a broken hull, you will not get away with the same building technique used for healthy ships. You will have to take into account the wreckage right from the start. So in future, if time is given me, I might work out a wrecked ship with planks missing, showing frame parts and partly broken decks. This is not a completely new challenge for me, as I have always built my wooden models just like they were built in real life, but as we all know: paper is different.
In the mean time you might like the result of this first effort, of which we soon will present a Photoshop composition, showing the ship in its natural and fitting surrounding.
 


 

 

 

 
Also an impression of my latest 'smalschip', sort of a preview for my soon to come new book: 
 

smalschip.mp4  
Happy New Year,
Ab

Hi everyone, it's been some time since I've been here on MSW. For the past few years I've been out for medical reasons and recently had the urge to get back to my Winnie. Drilling tiny holes in wood and soft metal has been my nemesis. I've wasted more money thinking I could 'shoemaker' something together rather than just dropping the coin. Anyways, I think I finally found a tiny press for under $100.00 that doesn't break carbide bits drilling aluminum, brass and wood. It runs on a dc supply anywhere between 6 and 14 volts with the tiny motor running between 1600 and 7500 rpm. The chuck holds from .3mm to 6mm. So far, I've experimented down to .6mm using a carbide pcb bit with no breakage into brass about 70 times. For me, that is a world record!  Its small enough to almost fit in a pocket at aprox. 18.5 cm height, 13.5 cm depth and 8 cm width. I'm not sure what one calls the distance a spindle can travel but in this case it's about 1.3 cm. I found this wee guy on Ebay in case anyone is interested.  I've never been so happy since I bought my Byrnes saw! It's really nice to be back!
Ron

Anyone have a set of instructions for AL's Le Hussard model kit?  I need a set and wonder if anyone has one they will sell or will scan and email to me?

Take a look at Model Shipways Willie L. Bennett, a Chesapeake Skipjack.  Not to difficult to build.

kgstakes, what is actually wrong in your opinion with your lathe ?
 
When pondering lathes it is important to draw up a list of the things and their enveloppe sizes that you are expecting to make. An old rule of thumb is to by a lathe that has twice the capacity you think you need 😉
 
Apart from that the other end of the size range also needs to be considered. If you are expecting to make (lots) of small parts, a chuck is not such a good option for a couple of reasons: it is less precise than collets and the spinning jaws are always a risk for valuable body parts, such as fingers. As you already have a lathe, you may want to look into a collet-chuck for it (I don't think the Craftsman has an internal spindel taper for collets). They are easy to obtain though ES-collets are more for tool-holding and not so good for work-holding. A 5C collet-chuck would be better. On the other hand, as you have thread-cutting capability on your lathe, you could make a collet-adapter four your own lathe quite easily yourself. You could then make one for WW-horological collets to work with really small parts.
 
An engineer's lathe is not ideal for woodturning, as dust can easily clog the drive spindle. A plain lathe would be better. When you turn wood, you should remove the saddle and apron as much as possible without going so far to disassemble the lathe and cover well the spindle in front of the bed. Dito for the backgear etc. I would tape it up. Otherwise you would need a thorough cleaning session as wood dust together with oil makes a nasty combination that can clog vital parts of the lathe easily.
 
To fashion a T-rest (or several sizes for convenience) should be quite simple. You would need to make a bed adapter that clamps to the lathe bed and to which a stem is screwed that carries the actual tool-rest. On the Internet there should be pictures of the (way overpriced) T-rest Sherline used to sell for their lathes, which should give you design ideas. I think that could be done without needing a milling machine, just using stock materials and simple tools.
 

Note that Sherline is selling these chucks with back plates to fit Unimat DB/SL spindles that are 12mm in diameter x 1mm threading (or 14mm x 1mm for the Unimat 3) or "1/2" by 20 TPI for "old 6" Sears lathes." Sears sold lathes in a variety of sizes. The smallest was a 6" lathe (capable of handling material up to 6" in diameter,) there was a 9" model, and the 12" model made by Atlas. I've never seen a 6" Craftsman lathe in the flesh, but the 9" Craftsman lathe was a nice little lathe. 
 
Back in the day, "Craftsman" was Sears' middle of the line "house brand" for tools while "Craftsman Professional" or "Craftsman Industrial" were the top of the line and "Dunlop" was Sears' lowest quality - lowest priced line of tools (which were later called "Sears," then "Companion," and are now called "Evolv.")   It's only been in recent decades as Sears began its long decline into oblivion that Craftsman tools began to be sold anywhere other than in Sears stores or mail order from their catalog. Stanley-Black and Decker bought the Craftsman brand in 2017 with Sears holding a license to use the Craftsman brand name without paying royalties to Stanley-Black and Decker for 15 years, so now you can buy Craftsman tools at a Sears store (if you can still find one, there's only 13 Sears stores left) or one of the many other stores now supplied by Stanley-Black and Decker.
 
The various old Craftsman stationary power tools were made by leading U.S. stationary power tool manufacturers of the day such as Atlas Press, Co. (in later years bought out by Clausing lathe company), King-Seeley, and Double A Products. These Craftsman tools were identical to the models made and sold by their manufacturers, save for the "Craftsman" label badges and model numbers attached to the tools made for sale by Sears, Roebuck, and Co. This was basically the same business model as Costco uses today with its "Kirkland" house brand. (Interestingly, the "Dunlop" line was named in honor of the man who was Sears' West Coast hardware manager who, in 1937, came up with the idea of making the Craftsman line of hand tools polished chrome plated and rust proof which resulted in a six-fold increase in sales the following year.)
 
The 12" Atlas Craftsman lathes have a spindle with an outside diameter of an inch and a half with eight threads per inch. This is a fairly standard spindle size and threading and there are all sorts of chucks that can be purchased with backing plates that have an inside diameter of 1.5" X 8 TPI, so you should have no problem finding a chuck in the size you desire. In passing, I'll mention that you may want to give some thought to investing in a four-jaw chuck instead of a three-jaw one since the four-jaw chuck is more versatile and accurate than the three-jaw. Four-jaw chucks come in "self-centering" and "independently adjustable jaw" types. For modeling work, you won't need the "watchmaker" tolerances of a Sherline chuck. One of the half-way decent Chinese imports will probably serve just fine. 
 
Here's a YouTube video from Mr.Pete22 / "Tubal Cain" on the 12" Atlas Craftsman headstock and spindle that you might find helpful.
 
 

The new year is here and I have made a resolution to pare my stash down.  My wife has been after me to reduce the stash for some time now, pointing out that I have far more kits than I have life left to build them.  So here goes with the first batch.  If you are interested but think price is to high make an offer.  Nothing lost if I don't accept and you might get a great deal.  Buyer pays for shipping.  My preferred method is USPS ground advantage but I will ship by whatever carrier the buyer wants.
I can send additional pictures to anyone interested. I will be listing some additional kits from time to time.

1.  Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 scale.  New open box.  $75
2. Panart Lancia HMS Victory 1:16 scale.  Old stock, complete and unstarted. $125 now $100
3. Panart Lancia Armata 1803 1:16 scale.  Complete but a previous owner punched out some parts and glued them together then took them apart.  In excellent condition.  $150 now $125
4. Disar Marieville Sternwheel Steamer 1:72 scale.  New open box.  $150 now $125

Keep the Atlas.  You can turn wood on it no problem.  Just clean the wood chips out of the lathe when you are done.  There is a Facebook group for Atlas lathes that you might find useful for info and finding parts.  Lots of Youtube videos about Atlas lathe operation and repair.
 
Check out this website for wood turning on a metal lathe. https://www.lathematters.com/turning-wood-on-a-metal-lathe/