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Sjors, thanks! The soldering isnt difficult really. I am finding this is a bit more touchy than soldering brass and copper lamps together, getting that microscopic bit of solder to sit where you want it can be "fun." I will happily loan you my soldering gnomes, just dont let them drink too much of that Belgian beer, they get..... excitable. I dont know what the conversion is but you should be able to get a small butane torch and some silver solder for about $50.00 USD. Robbyn thank you, PM away! Always happy to pass on what others have taught me, although there is a tutorial in the metalworking forum that 'splains it quit well. I am finding with these tiny parts its more a game of cleanup and getting the solder in place before even touching the torch. In addition to Russes guidance I used this resource http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1724-deadeye-straps/#entry108284 Sam EDIT - I should probably add in that I am usig wire solder rather than the pre fluxed paste that seems popular here. I ordered some yesterday, see if that doesnt make life a bit easier.

Triple WOW Robbyn! Do I hear the Syren calling quietly in the background? Sam

Russ, I know about busy. Thanks for taking the time to help. Sam

Hey Russ, Thank you for the advice. Havent seen much of you lately, is all well? I found this posting in the metal working forum. It appeared to be a good combination of your advice and my skill level: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1724-deadeye-straps/#entry108284 Something more like one of the two below? I made a couple of rings with hard solder and then crimped them around the deadeyes. The one on the left I used soft solder to fill the void after crimping around an .020 rod, the one on the right has been left open.Both ways are MUCH easier than how I was trying to do things! Based on the drawing twintrow posted in the rigging forum I am leaning towards the left hand strop. Sam

Thanks for posting this, I am at that stage right now and was trying to solder my parts in place and creating briquettes in the process. Gonna try this, thanks again. One question, are you using hard silver solder or silver bearing plumbers solder? Ok two questions, are you blackening after crimping to your deadeye? Sam

Finished fixing the rudder. Glazing some blue didnt work on scrap so I just went with what I had. Much better than the corrosion! Now if I can figure out what happened in the first place. I am generally pleased with the end results although in hindsight there are things I would do differently on my next build. Things like separating the spectacle plate and the top hinge set. This was a good learning experience. The white lines on the edges are mostly reflections from my work lights, not unpainted areas. There are a couple of touchups need though. I have started in in the chain plates. Over in the rigging forum I recieved quite an education learning about channel location and proper chain plate angles and styles. I learned that the chain plates provided with the kit are incorrect for the period. While the plates supplied would have made a perfectly respectable model, especially for a first build I have made so many deviations already a few more wont hurt. I decided to try to fabricate my own more correct chain plates. Its turning into an "adventure". Soldering these little buggers without demonstrating the effect of an open flame on wood is....... interesting. My first attempt created something very close to the briquettes in my BBQ, or perhaps the asparagus that fell through the grate the other night. My second and third attempt were better but still charing the wood so I made a little shield out of a broken exacto blade. That helped but if I get the shield too hot I still scorch the deadeye. I am using "extra easy" hard solder for my joints, it has a melting temp of 1250 degrees, maybe 1300 I need to look it up. If I drop down to a silver bearing plumbers solder - soft solder - I can get a really nice looking solder joint with some clean up. I am concerned that this joint wont hold up though, I have read a couple of horror stories about plates breaking a year or two after completion. This is my 3rd attempt still getting some charing A little shield mght help This is the same deadeye from above with a new piece soldered on using the shield this time, better but still charred. Soldered with a low temp silver bearing plumbers solder. Much better but will it hold up? Thoughts anybody? Sam

Thanks for reposting the picture of the clove hitch, I will be using that sometime in the - hopefully - near future. Sam

Rich, Yea your better off being honest. Even if all your other skills are above average all they will remember is you lied. Been dealing with that at work trying to find scenic painters. Looks like your staying focused and positive, like Adam said, thats probably most of the battle. Plus you have your build as a distraction, and bacon of course. Life without a slice of bacon isnt worth living. Sam

#^@%!$@ Women!!! Thanks Sarah that is just WAY too easy!! Jan yes I have only 1/2 kit under my belt but that seems to be the consensus here, thanks for the reminder. tomorrow is Saturday and I should have the day off and will have time to figure sizes and quantities. That is of course if Warrior Kitten stays off the work bench....caught her playing house hockey with a bottle of CA a few minutes ago... Sam

Sjors, Very Very nice!!. I think I should have held on to one of your gnomes so they could teach mine how to do it right!! Sam

Of course you can Rich! Just show them your Niagra then say "Yes I can" It works for both parties of our government! Why not you?? "Hated taking Java in school" but you dont mind drinking it.... Sam

Sjors, Nope they should all be back, I know you need them with all your rigging and a second build to finish then starting another. Thanks! Robbyn thanks. I do like how they turned out, I just liked the aged look for some reason. No matter what, this is better than corroded metal. Now, I cant believe I am going to say this, but if work would just slow down a bit I could get some steady build time in. I find for how my mind works that 1 hour blocks of build time are not enough to get anything done. I just cant wrap my mind around what I have to do and then do it in an hour. The quater badges are looking very fiddley to me and I dont know if I want to jump on them when I cant devote the time I feel they need. Maybe i will start dinking with the cannons. we will see.

Sjors, I dont think I could convince them to stay any longer then necessary! They kept saying something about "He who shall not be named will be angry" and ran off. They made it back ok I see. My gudgeons started sweating and turning green I noticed. After some time in the metal working forum I cleaned them up and washed them in some baking soda and then some vinegar. got them all cleaned up and then painted them. The black is still a bit too black, I want to see if I can cut that and add a blue tinge to it on some scrap. If not I am more than happy to have them this way rather than sweating and corroding. The sweating doesnt really show in the pictures, but it looked like little drops of water or glycerine Gudgeons are painted, I plan to do some more tests on some scrap if I can cut the black a bit more then I will do everything that way otherwise I will match the pintles to the gudgeons and be done with it. I will miss the aged look on the rudder, but this is much better than corroded brass. Next up is chain plates and then some quarter badges. The Byrnes table saw is looking really attractive, not sure I can justify the cost though. I have been hoping a job would turn up at work so I could use that as an excuse to buy one. No such luck yet. Sam

Robbyn coming along nicely, cant wait to see a completed ship!! Mmmmm! Plank bending! Sam

Chuck, Thanks for replying. The ship is the Constructo Enterprise 1:51. The kit came with 2 spools each of black and tan "yarn" as they call it. The black are approximately .020" and .040". The tan are .016" and .024-.025" No lengths are given in the instructions. going by the spreadsheet above I figure I will need 3-4 sizes of each. I havent figured out my sizes yet, just though there might be a formula that would get me in the ball park. Sam

JP, I will have to try that strop. John, the package doesnt say anything about any special coating, just long life. They skate across wood rather than cutting. The regular #11s I have been buying are far superior to what that packing in the picture contains, at more than half the per blade cost IIRC. Maybe JP's strop idea will fix 'em. Actually I had considered taking them to the leather wheel on the Tormek, but never got around to it; they were pushed to the back of the drawer till this topic reminded me of them. Sam

I am considering scrapping my kit rope and replacing it with Chucks rope; somebody please tell me why I bought a kit again?? I am using the "Period Ship Scale" spread sheet from the database here to get my sizes but I am unsure how much to purchase. Does anybody have some rough guidelines on how much rope to buy? I know, I know, enough to hang myself with! I can see it would be very easy to get too much - expensive, or too little, annoying and a waste of time. Having to order more could also get me different dye lots - out of any manufacturers controll but still annoying. Thanks for any advice, Sam

JP, like always, looks great - no green eyed monster here! I am curious how you will dye with an oil based paint? My understanding of paint, stain, and dye is that they have a progressively smaller pigment. Following your progress I have no doubt it will look great, just not following the concept. I will be watching and learning. edit How rude of me not to sign my name! Sam

Very Very nice Sjors, it gotta be nice to walk in and se her almost complete. Sam

I just "throw" mine in a small plastic bin to, theoretically, turn into other tools. So far I have made an entire set on of one. The smaller stuff I too sharpen on a water stone, the larger - 1/4" and up I will tune up on a water stone but when I really need to get in grind you cant beat the Tormek system for speed. I have 50+ chisles at work from cheap Harbor Freight tools up to big hand made mortising chisels that John Wayne would be proud to use. I have brought 15 -20 home before, some with divots in them from chopping into fiberglass - Harbor Freight tools are great for that, and had a very nice working edge on all of them in just a couple of hours. There are even some attachments that will hold the miniature tools I see used here. Just my 2 pennies worth. And yes, it can become an addiction. As far as the zirconium #11 blades.. do you men these? Perhaps I got a bad batch but these cut horribly, you might as well try cutting wood with the back of a plastic butter knife. I havent tried sharpening them, seems like adding insult to injury to me. Sam

Dangling like earrings.... Hope you dont have a cat like we do here, they will look like Warrior-Kitten Chain Swings! Sam

Very Nice Sjors! Sam

That would be kind of thin, is it too late to try to mortice them in?

Rich, how thick are the two laminates? could you just pin the top or bottom half? sam

JP, Great to see you back at it. Ports look good to me. I started a fresh batch of popcorn and the adult beverages are cooling in the fridge over in the corner. Sam