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src

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Everything posted by src

  1. Z, Thanks, thats what I am hoping for. Mark, that would (wood?) make some serious saw dust in my work room/office!! Then again so would the router tables at work....... If you didnt have a mill would you find a use for a table in the size at lowes? Sam
  2. HHmmmmm Robbyn, hard for me to answer. Other than the dremmel I have only used industrial shapers and "Big Boy" (or Girl) router tables. Our good friend See Yours has a Proxon router table I believe, although I think it translates to a mill in has language. Maybe he will have some input or even ask him directly? If that dremmel is what is in your budget at the moment and you need a shaper/router table go for it. It gets the job done just not as well as I would like. I have found I need to check my cuts regularly and even leave the last tiny bit - 1/64" to trim off with a chisel or needle file. Also the opening whre the bit protrudes is rather large for the tiny parts we work with, I keep threatening to make a cover for it with a zero clearance opening or at least a much smaller opening. Also, and this may apply to any of the hobby type shapers there is no provision for a cross cut/miter attachment. Essential for keeping your teons and rabbets square on a cross cut type operation. I use a large piece of 1/8" x 2" wide scrap wood cut as square as you can get it. That will help keep your cuts square and the bit out of your fingers. These little bits wont take your finger but believe me router wounds are.......uncomfortable. Dont ask how I know I am sorry I am not being more helpful. I guess as a filler tool till I can afford something better it works just fine. Sam
  3. Ron, Thanks! I am trying to do her justice, I just gotta learn to look ahead as you say a bit sooner! Russ, thanks, It was a surprisingly easy decision to make once I realized there was way to fix it. Robbyn, thanks. The Dremmel router is "OK" not good just ok in my opinion. Its better than hand cutting rabbets and tenons, especially on mahogany. Its a bit inconsistent though and the mount is kinda sloppy, which leads to the inconstancy. That being said, once you learn its limitations it is a good inexpensive addition to your kit, especially if a mill or table saw or mini shaper is out of budget. ahh to be independently wealthy and afford a Jim Byrnes tool kit! Sam
  4. Vivian, Glad I could help out. I have received so much help from people I have never met and most likely never will, its amazing. My humble little build is so much more than it would be with out the input from people at MSW yours will too I bet. MSW is really a great place, it was initially a resource for me, but its become much much more. Sam
  5. Vivian, Thats frustrating, but its how we learn - well at least it how I learn... sort of, I usually have to make the same mistake 2 or 3 times first . I have a similar problem with my build IE; holes in the decking, perhaps you can employ some of the same fixes I am planing - ropes, buckets mops? There is a thread here in the decking forum that may help. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4526-on-deck-brick-a-brack/ Shes looking good though, you will work through it And yes there are some great build/tutorials here. Sam
  6. Robbyn, Most likely it will be ropes and buckets, but, I posted a question in the deck fittings forum and got some great ideas. One is a gun repair scenario that has me really intrigued. I dont know if where the third hole is will lend itself to that or not but it bears looking into I think. I tore out the offending timber heads, they came out disturbingly easy. Minimal damage to the deck and cap rail. The cap rail re-stained well; you can barely tell its been touched up. Some plugs in the deck and I can move on. I am using the old timber heads over since there is nothing wrong with the caps, just needed some tenons cut into them with the router. Looks like I need a new bit though, not a very clean cut. It should clean up with a file ok. I finished installing the pin rails and started in on the hatch coamings. I used the table saw for the rabbet but chose the dremel router for the lap joints. I have not made a sled for the saw yet and have found the miter attachment is not very stable; there is a bit a play to it. This is where she site today, a little different that the last full hull shot in September, not much but a bit. Sam
  7. Sjors, at least you caught it now instead of later. Much easier to fix now I imagine. Take your time, make it right. Taps foot impatiently waiting for pictures........ Sam
  8. Vivian, Looks good! Where are the mismatched pieces of wood you are talking about? Sam
  9. Jan, Nice bend. It made the walnut brittle, interesting, I wonder if it is oxidizing the wood. There are a couple of chemist here, hopefully one of them will have something to say. Sam
  10. Very nice Sjors! I dont see any gears on your serving machine, I seem to be missing something, how does your work? Most of the pictures and plans I have seen there are gears and such. Hhhhmmmm a serving machine, does that mean Anja doesnt have to cook or clean anymore? Sam
  11. Rich, good to hear. THat sucks about your heater. I used to have to travel back East for work. Most trips they would bring a car up from Richmond VA to whatever city I was working in. One trip somebody forgot to drain the water or add a different windshield cleaner to the windshield wiper reservoir...in December. I got about halfway between Philly and Bethlaham when everything started icing over. I am a west coast boy, didnt realize what was happening right away. Here in LA you can just hit the ice with your cleaner for the wipers. Not a good idea when the ambient temp is below 20 IIRC and your driving 65!! HA! Good times!! From the sound of it your Niagara arrived ok then? Sam
  12. So many great ideas! Hmmm RUM Kegs, nice! Too bad tequila is inappropriate. Mark, the cannon idea crossed my mind last night although I didnt think of the wheel to cover the hole. Liking the sail idea too, may have to wait till I get further along to decide and see how much room I am going to have. Both holes are fairly far forward and the gun barrel will come into play also. I will try to get a picture up in the morning to give an idea. Thanks everybody, Sam
  13. Brian, what does ammonia do to the ebony? Simply lighten it or?? Sam
  14. Meredith, Meredith, Meredith! Really?!?! The Future Admiral is SO going to hate you!! This place looks better than Japanwoodwrker.com, I see a whole lot purchases from Germany in my future. Thanks(?) Sam
  15. No problem Larry, I appreciate the input, its something I wouldnt have thought of. Sam
  16. Ron, Nice clean crisp work. I wish I worked as "slow" as you. what you did in one day would take me 2 weeks - and it probably wouldnt look as good as yours to boot. Sam
  17. Thanks everybody, some great ideas. Thats one of the things I love about this site; ask a question and you get way more than you ever expected. Larry, as Russ pointed out the area in question is too far forward and I have already added in drainage. I had originally considered the bucket and or mop. I had posted this to find out what else might be on deck and wasnt disappointed. Mark, I am really liking the spliced rope idea, it gives the rope a reason to be laying out on deck. Maybe with a little three cornered stool for my non existent deck hand to sit on. Sam
  18. Sjors, Thanks. Wacko is correct in english its called a shaper. I see where confusion can come in with translation. In a wood shop we will frequently run material through a planer, joiner or shaper and call it milling. Its all good. To me Klomping is a slang to describe a "stomping" kind of walk, but from you I learn Klompen is something somewhat different. No wonder there are still wars. Looking forward to more pictures. Sam
  19. Sjors, This tool. It looks like a shaper/router table to me. Sam
  20. Was it common for rope coils to be "laying about"?
  21. I have a couple of ooppses in my decking that need to covered up/hidden. My instructions called for the timber-heads to penetrate the deck just inboard of the hull. I foolishly followed the instructions and questioned it after I installed them! The more I think /dwell on it the more I want to correct it. The problem is, I morticed them into the deck and now I will have 6 .125" holes to patch and hide. I can hide four of the patches with gun carriages, the other two will be in plain sight. What items would normally be found on deck in a non combat, day to day setting? Buckets, brooms and mops come to mind. Coils of rope perhaps? Anything else? Thanks in advance, Sam
  22. The Gremlin has been sitting on my shoulder and grumbling about the timber head locations. I may have found a work around to shut him up. Since I bought correct cannon barrels for this ship I have been planning on lashing them sideways instead of the more common run out position. It hit me suddenly that I might be able to hide four of the mortices with the carriages so I made a very crude carriage mock up based on the plans in the database here. If I can remove the timber heads reasonably cleanly it looks like it will work. I can cover the forward most hole with a bucket or broom or something. Restaining the cap rail could be problematic, got some 'speramentin' to do. Stupid Gremlin wins again! Sam
  23. Harvey, Thanks for stopping by and the compliment. Always nice to see new faces. I dont know what you mean by turning blocks. Do you have a drawing or picture you can share? Feel free to post it here or a link is fine also. Thanks, Sam
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