coxswain

Thanks for those Alan;
 
One of the reasons why shipwrights remained at the Royal dockyards, rather than seeking the more highly-paid and sooner-received wages for work in the merchant yards (dockyard wages could be four years in arrears) was that there was a chance of retirement and a pension, if one's service was thought worthy of it, once work became too hard. The same applied to the warrant officers serving on sailing ships. Greenwich Hospital also took in distressed sailors in old age, who had no other resources. 
 
This all dates back for at least three hundred years. In a time when life was precarious and hard for so many, any chance of some assistance in old age was greatly valued. The Navy was more paternalistic than popular modern legend, obsessed with flogging and sodomy (not necessarily at the same time) would have us believe.
 
One reason for Nelson's success as a commanding officer was that he cared deeply for all his men's welfare, and tried hard to make some difference wherever he saw the need. He saw command as carrying an obligation towards those commanded, and not just as a means to personal glory or success. Not all saw things in this way, of course (and still don't!)
 
All the best,
 
Mark P
 
 

and this poor bugger had to live in the shadow of his brothers sacrifice. (1798)
 

here is one you wouldn't think of.... dated 1799

I stumbled on the following letter printed in 1799 that I thought was quite interesting.  It relates to the nicknames of ships...

I will use the pre-engraved when i build my Speedy. Give it thorough sanding first to shake off the some how excessive laser caulking. 

Finally,  I have completed my Snake maple deck and can compare before i move on with my Speedy deck. My Snake took about 2 weeks to do and i would say that the pre engraved would save tons of time. So which look do you prefer?

Post 63

Completing the masthead blocks and raising the Gaff.

 
Standing blocks are required for the Boom topping lift and the Gaff Halyards.

0229(2)
These are stropped with served line using a 4mm block for the boom topping lift and 3mm blocks for the Gaff Peak halyards.

(The kit has them stropped to eyebolts in the masthead)

 
When it comes to the how and where elements of rigging the gaff and boom tackle things get a little more confusing.
Gaff


4421
Raising the Gaff.

 
The Gaff Throat Halyard or Gaff jeer tackle, as it is referred to in the Alert book is set up with the standing block secured around the masthead, with the tackle hooked to an eyebolt atop the gaff jaws, the fall being secured at the bitts. (behind the mast)

The kit instructions also show the fall secured to the bitts.

Steel calls this the inner tye, but describes a completely different set up.

INNER-TYE is similar to the outer tye, and hooks to an eye-bolt in the jaws of the gaff; then reeves through the lower iron-bound-block, that hooks to an eye-bolt in the aftside of the mast-head, below the rigging. It has a double-block bent to the lower end, and sets up by the haliards;, the lower block hooking to an eye-bolt on the opposite side to the other tye.

The Cheerful rigging plan shows this secured to the pin rack on the Portside.

I have opted to follow the Alert book /kit arrangement.
 


0228
Throat halyard tackle attached to the gaff.

 
Peak Halyard

The Alert book indicates that the Gaff peak halyard tackle block is secured to the Portside channel but doesn’t indicate further where the tackle fall is belayed.

The kit shows the running end of the peak halyard belaying to the bitts without a tackle attached.

Steel calls this the outer tye and indicates that the halyard block is hooked to an eyebolt in the deck close behind the mast.

TYE, OR HALIARD, reeves through a block on the span, that clinches or splices round the middle of the gaff. The standing-part of the tye clinches round the mast-head, or hooks to an eyebolt in the mast-head: the other end reeves through a second iron-bound-block, hooked to an eyebolt in the mast-head, and at the lower end is the double-haliard-block, that does not splice as other haliards, but reeves through the strap, and makes fast with a hitch; and the remainder is expended in turns round the block and strap. The haliard-block connects by its fall to a single or double block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the deck, close behind the mast.
The Cheerful rigging plan shows this without a standing end with the halyards belayed to both the Portside pin rack opposite the mast, and to a cleat on the mast. Cheerful did however post date Alert by some thirty years.

 
I have opted to follow the Alert book arrangement with the tackle block hooked in the Portside channel the running end will be secured to a shroud cleat.

This at least keeps the tackle away from the boom.

0221
Upper end of the Peak Halyards.

04424
Connecting the block to the peak halyard using a ‘false’ splice.

0219
Lower end of Peak halyards tackle hooked to the Portside channels.

 
Boom Topping Lift

The Alert book has the standing part clinched around the boom end, runs up thro’ the standing block at the masthead, with a single block seized into the fall which is positioned at a level just short of halfway down the mast.

The tackle block is hooked to an eyebolt in the aft end of the  starboard channel.

The kit plan follows this arrangement with the running end secured to a cleat on the drift rail.

Steel has a slightly more substantial arrangement:

TOPPING-LIFT is taken upon the starboard-side, and reeved through the upper-block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the mast-head; then lead down and reeved through the block at the boom-end. The standing-part clinches round the mast-head, or hooks to the same eye-bolt; the leading-part comes down, and has a double-block spliced in, or turned, that connects by its fall to a single-block, and hooks to an eye-bolt in the after part of the channel, and belays to a pin in the shroud-rack. Sometimes it has the addition of a runner and sometimes rigged as the driver-boom in ships.

I have opted to follow the Alert book /kit arrangement.
 
Rigging the Topping Lift

For the lift I am using Syren 0.6mm line with a 4mm single block spliced into the end. The tackle is 0.3mm line, spliced into the strop of the lift, with the tackle running thro’ a 4mm single block hooked to the starboard channel.

This is slightly heavier tackle than shown on the kit plan.


0233
Topping Lift spliced around the boom end.

0234
Topping lift passing thro’ the masthead block.

0230
'Splicing' the block into the lift end.

0245
Tackle hooked to the Starboard channel.


0244(2)
Run of the Topping Lift.

0232
Not in any hurry to secure these lines yet, snagging lines that have been tied off can present problems, and there are endless opportunities for this to happen.


 
 
B.E.

02/02/2020

 
 
 
 
 
 

I'm converting this old table into a case for my GR model....I need to do some work on the base run of the glass frame but it will fit nicely on the table face....of course the maple will be stained and treated to mimic the same color of the table.
 
I have the top section drying in the garage and its still gigged up.  I have to mill out the corner posts and router out the top glass recess in the top frame.
I will be siliconing all the glass edges accept the right side..it will be free so I can open the case and turn the model.  The top will also be removable.
I'm thinking of green felting the base......on the table top...so the wood base of the model will be more prominent.
 
Rob

next video on the series, trying to catch up with the build again
 
 
 

Hi Allan. Fantastic work on your masts! They look like the real deal!
 
I came across this youtube video which you have probably seen, but maybe not. I really enjoyed watching it. Not the best quality but the ending is kinda fun!
 
 

Some more progress.

The two "cow-catchers" are the last major things to fit to the loco before it's finished. Here are the pics of them :

The bars are all different angles and lengths, so I sorted them out and marked them before gluing them together :






The brake hose fittings :



All the front is now finished. Just a few rivets to re-glue and I can spray it with satin finish clear lacquer :






Now to build the tracks for the base.
 
Danny

No, I did not use the template. A simple soldering process has been applied here.

Meanwhile I've marked port-side for tree-nailing and made a first attempt with pear amidships:

5. The deck structure
Before I can start to make deck beams, I have to prepare some more wood supply. I saw some planks with the circle table saw and plane them to 4mm thickness.

Drawing the deck curve on one of the planks with the help of three nails and a flexible pine lath.

 

I saw the beam first with the fret saw...

... and sand it to the final shape with the band sander. This first deck beam will serve as template to draw the next ones.

After I sawed an sanded enough pieces to start laying them.

The deck beams have to be placed with a half dove tail. Drawing the dove tail on the beam.

After they have been sawn.

I saw the notches for the dovetails in the bean clamp with metal saw blade which is cut off.

 

First deck beam placed.

The two deck beams which bound the cockpit are placed.

At the front of the helm port a notch has to be sawn to make place for the deck beam. Here the metal saw blade comes in handy again.

 

Continuing to place the deck beams.

All the deck beams in front and behind the cockpit are placed, time to start something else. But that is for next week.

 
Thank you to follow.
Thank you for the likes..
Thank you for your constructive comments.
 
Till next week!

Wow - it’s been over 9 months since my last update on the good old Flyer. Progress over the summer was always going to be slow (even slower than usual) as I spend as much time as possible outside!
 
I’ve since resumed work.
 
The carronade is now built. The woodwork was pretty straight forward. I’ve used Brass Black again to blacken (all) metal parts. I’m not quite so happy with the finish on the carronade itself. It seems the larger the part, the more challenging it is to achieve a nice smooth and uniform finish. So this had a couple of treatments, and I think it looks ‘OK’. I’m not totally sure what should be blackened and what should remain brass, so at the moment I’m blackening all metallic parts. I’m generally happy with how it’s looking so far.



The other thing I’ve put off so far is the ‘rope work’ associated with the carronade. Constructo seem to have simplified it somewhat. I’m undecided as to whether to attempt something more authentic. I can’t find much guidance out three for these deck-mounted swivel carronades.
 
Father Christmas brought me a Dremel and Workstation this year, which has made some of the problems I was facing with manual drilling much easier, particularly with the very thin pinrail posts. So they are now firmly attached to the deck.
 
I’m now ready to start with the bowsprit. But in doing so I realised that the bowsprit bitt that I made leaves a big gap, so I need to make a new one. I assume the idea is that the horizontal piece of the bitt rests against the top edge of the bowsprit?

I’ve also created a tiller which took some considerable patience due to the scale - it required cutting a groove out of the tiller such that it would fit over the top of the rudder post. Even having narrowed the rudder post, there is very little room for manoeuvre. I think this is the fiddliest part I’ve had to deal with so far in the build.

Thanks for looking,
Will.
 
 

I placed my order for Vanguard Models HMS Speedy from here in Texas on January 24th, it arrived today, the 29th. That's pretty exceptional service coming from the UK.

If anyone has reservations about this kit, please allow me to help you set them aside. I've unboxed a lot of kits including the very expensive Amati Vanguard. I've never seen a kit so well packed. The heavy duty cardboard outer sleeve ensured there was not even a crinkle on the kit box. Everything inside was wrapped in separate plastic bags or boxes and all that wrapped in bubble wrap so nothing was  moving around inside the box. I have never seen pearwood before and wasn't sure what to expect, I've still only looked, not worked any of it yet, but it seems marvelous - a major major step up from the standard walnut. The laser work is top notch as well. I had a few reservations when I saw Chris was doing that at home now, those were completely unfounded. The upside of doing his own is he can do it exactly the way he wants and include what he wants... and so he includes a lot of detailed stuff.  I've never seen this quality of an instruction book and I'm not limiting that to models, I suppose the manuals that came with my BMW are more detailed, but that's about it. The details in the plans are exceptional as well.
 
Modelers can and should buy this kit without reservations. This is a whole new league of model kits.  I'm going to be really tempted, for the first time, to build the kit just as it is with what came in it. I really don't think I need to replace anything.

Admiral Cochrane dropped by my Pegasus to say hello. I put him alongside a silly little stickman I did years ago to have some personal reference as to the size of people on the ship (it never stayed there, don't judge:-).  Looks like I was pretty close seeing him next to the admiral.
 
Nice Job Chris (and Chris’ wife who packs the boxes)!
 
 
 

And here is the 1st cannon

I have a model in a similar situation. It's about twelve years old now in front of a the north-facing window. It's positioned so no direct sunlight ever hits it. It's in a case with UV filtering picture-framing glass. The UV issue concerns me, too, but in all that time, I've never seen the slightest evidence of UV deterioration. I do rotate it every so often so the exposure is even, just to be on the safe side.

Note that the US Navy Naval Sea Systems Command which includes the Navy's Curator for Ship Models division specifies in their requirements for model contracts that all "masts, antenna masts, yardarms (sic!), boom, etc. less than 3/16" diameter shall be metal."
 
See: Specifications for Building Model Ships at https://www.navsea.navy.mil/Home/Warfare-Centers/NSWC-Carderock/Resources/Curator-of-Navy-Ship-Models/Specifications-for-Building-Exhibition-Ship-Models/
 
I believe that in large measure the same specifications have been adopted by the Smithsonian Institution and Mystic Seaport and that they are generally recognized by professional museum curators as defining "museum quality" in so far as that term can be defined. I follow these specifications to the extent possible. Obviously, some requirements are difficult to meet these days, e.g. linen rigging line. They recognize that new materials come along all the time, but caution that they are often of unproven archival quality. I take that caution seriously. What's the point of spending the time it takes to build a good model, only to have it fall apart in a few decades. 
 
See also Mystic's Ship Model Classification Guidelines developed by Howard I. Chapelle: http://www.shipmodel.com/pdfs/ship-model-classification-guidelines-1980.pdf
 

fascinating idea though perhaps it could be applied to plastic modeling where mast and spars have more of a tendency  to bend from pressure of the rigging or  perhaps an epoxy glue would prohibit expansion/contraction of metal and wood  when applied to adhere the metal and wood together.
 
 

I'm a newbie modeller, so please consider this article as a beginner's rough idea.

1. Problem
Wood is weak. According to the Young's modulus of elasticity, most wood sticks are vendable 10 times easier than copper or brass rods. While an elasticity of birch wood which is commonly used for mast is just about 15 GPa while the other commonly used woods spread over 6~12 GPa.

(Cutty sark, National Research Institute of Maritime Cultural Heritage, South Korea)
 
Because of the weakness, thin masts such as under 5mm are easily vendable or breakable. The reason of the defects are various like a rigging tension, humidity, temperature, and sun light. It is a critical defect for wooden ship model because it makes the model really bad. Most wooden model ship's life time is longer than decades, and it is very difficult to keep wood condition stable for that long time.Therefore, we need to do something on wooden masts to keep it best.
 
 
2. Concept
If wood is weak, then we can use or add another materials to overcome within a boundary of 'wooden model ship'.
 
(2-1) Metal mast
Easiest way to make an unventable mast. Only for painted ships such as HMS Victory. Also, it costs a lot for beginners. It requires metal lathe which costs more than $1,000.

(2-2) Metal cored mast
For non-painted masts, we can insert very firm metal core into a mast like a pencil. A benefit of this method is is that you can make your own mast regardless the wood's firmness. I'm making Padauk surface + tungsten core masts. You can use any kind of beautiful woods even if it is a Balsa. Even if a grain is 90 degrees angled which is the weakest situation, the metal core will endure the pressure.
 
 
3. materials
 
(1) Young's modulus of elasticity
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Young's_modulus
 
According to this chart, we can easily find suitable materials for the metal core reinforcement.
 
- Acryl, PVC plastic : 2~3
- Most common woods : 6~12
- Birch : 15
- Aluminium : 70
- Brass, copper : 100~120
- Steel : 200~250
- Tungsten (Carbide) : 400~650
- Diamond or carbon nano tubes : 1200, 1000+
 
I've tested some materials on the list and figured out several cheap and useful metal rods.
 
(2) Brass or copper rods
Some people might say that brass wire is weak, but it is 10 times stronger than pine wood! Of course, thin brass wire is useless to keep mast's straightness, so you should use more than 2mm of brass rods.
 
(3) steel rods
There are many types of iron rods, but the best one is S45C carbon steel which is commonly used in CNC machines. Also, it is relatively easy to cut by Proxxon metal cutter. Highly recommended, but difficult to buy under 3mm rod. Piano wire or stainless rods are less firmer than it and very difficult to cut. Not recommended, but easy to find and buy between 1~3mm rods.
 

(4) Tungsten rods
Here is the strongest material I've ever seen. Only a 1.00mm tungsten rod is firmer than 2.5mm brass rod! I'm not a Saudi's prince, so I apologize for not testing diamond rod.
 
Check youtube how much time takes to cut tungsten rod. Only diamond grinder can cut it after several minutes of grinding. Fortunately, you can break 1.00mm and 1.60mm tungsten rod by two pliers. You cannot break tungsten rod over 2.00mm.
 
It is a little bit tricky to buy tungsten rods. Find 'tungsten electrodes'. It's length is only 150mm, and the price starts from $4 (1.00mm, ten rods), but I guarantee that this is the best material to make unventable SLIM mast.
 
Oh, I'm pretty sure that you don't want to be the Wolverine. Don't buy RADIOACTIVE tungsten electrods which include thorium (WT series). Buy WL (Lanthanumized), WP (Pure tungsten), or the other electrods.
 
 
4. Requirements
 
(1) Wood lathe
It is not impossible to insert tungsten rods into polished masts from a kit, but you may need drill station with super long and thin drill bit which doesn't exist. (Imagine a 1mm thickness and 400mm long argur drill bit.) Therefore, if a mast's length is too long, making a wood stick from lathe is more reasonable way in my opinion.
 
(2) Loctite 401 super glue or epoxy glue
There is a many way to bond metal with wood, and I would say that super glue and epoxy glue are the strongest way to attach them. Also, the 401 glue is much faster than epoxy.
 

5. Plan
There are many ways to make wood sticks. But in this case, we need to put tungsten rod into a wood stick and hide it.
 
(1) Determine which mast you will change.
It will be perfect if you change all the wood masts to metal masts, but it consumes lots of time and money. Also, you don't need metal core for heavy duty masts such as over 10mm diameter. Personally, I recommend you to reinforce masts between 3mm to 6mm. Less than 3mm is too thin to install metal core and not effective. More than 6mm wood stick is strong enough to endure years of pressures. In addition, masts for sails may not need this kind of reinforcement because of weak pressure.
 
(2) Firmness calculation
The firmness of wood stick depends on its grain and thickness. Because of anisotropic grain, wood's modulus of elasticity decreases significantly by pressure from the weakest side. Fortunately, sufficient metal core will help to endure the pressure and keep straightness. From this simple formula, you can estimate how many thickness of metal core will be.
 
Target firmness = Wood stick (10mm diameter) = 1 (Wood's firmness) x π (3.1415..) x 10^2 = 314.15 (100%)
Current = Wood stick (3mm diameter) = 1 x π x 3^2 = 28.27 (approx. 9%)
Brass rod 1mm core = 1 x π x (3^2 - 1^2) + 10 (Brass = 10 times of wood) x π x 1^2 = 56.54 (approx. 18%)
Tungsten electrod 1mm core = 1 x π x (3^2 - 1^2) + 60 (Te = 60 times of wood) x π x 1^2 = 213.62 (approx. 68%)
 
(Common wood = 1, Birch wood = 1.5, Iron wood = 2,
Brass = 10, copper = 12, Piano wire = 20, S45C steel = 25, Tungsten = 60)
 
In this case (3mm wood stick), you can get 68% of firmness of 10mm wood stick when you insert a 1mm tungsten rod. It is 7.5 times harder than native wood stick and equivalent to 8mm pure wood stick!
 
(3) Limitation
- Do not use brass tube or metal tube series. It is weaker than wood.
- I don't recommend to insert metal core for less than 3mm mast. Because of the smallest diameter of tungsten rod is 1.00mm, 3mm masts will have only 1mm wood skin. Less than 1mm skin is very fragile and unstable. Also, some woods have lots of holes on the surface. They may consume and expose super glue from inner core, and make dark spots.
 
 
6. Making metal cored masts
I skip this section because of poor English skill. (I want to write so many lessons from my experiences!) I believe you expert modellers will find much better ways.
 

 
7. FYI
(1) I don't know how long the metal cored wood stick will keep its shape. I hope it lasts longer than centuries. 
(2) I don't guarantee your health if you use cheap radioactive tungsten rod. (Finger crossed)
 
 
 
 

(Two Padauk 8mm masts reinforced by S45C 3mm steel rods and one Padauk 4mm mast reinforced by WL15 1.00mm tungsten rod, on working)
 
 
 
I hope you enjoyed my idea. If you have any opinions or thoughts to improve my idea, please don't hesitate to leave a reply.
 

Thanks so much Rusty, Chuck and the "likes".
 
Chuck, I appreciate the "heads up". I think that I will wait to do any tweaking until somewhat later, when I can see more clearly what needs to be done to make everything fit properly.
 
Bob

I just completed the last steps before moving on to the lower hull planking. First, I added the anchor lining using the laser cut parts and strip. Next, I did the fairing cap, using the laser cut hance pieces, strip wood for the quarter deck pieces and for the temporary waist pieces, and pieces cut from cedar sheet for the bow pieces. After all those pieces were in place, I completed the fairing of the inner bulwarks. This was tedious, but not as bad as it might have been , since I had done a good deal of the fairing before.
 
Now, it's time to dig in and line off the lower hull and do the planking, a formidable looking task.
 
Bob

Spent some time today adding the main spanker and topmast stays.
Some pics.
 
Rob