Jump to content

ObviousNewbie

Members
  • Content Count

    68
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ObviousNewbie


  1. Hi all, I need some advice on how to proceed. First of all, half of the ice-shock sanding is complete:

    IMG_6830.thumb.JPG.d391a317e3379a241945ed9c16e41a45.JPG

    IMG_6831.thumb.JPG.f7cb11b8a1bea1f3c31edbb8e773af59.JPG

    But while sanding the bow, the wood started misbehaving:

    IMG_6832.thumb.JPG.5d969ef8cba639785b5df48f8141d4ea.JPG

    Probable cause: I bent the planks using the plank bender clamp and I think the damage I did to the planks is showing... Tried evening it with P180 and P400, to no avail. Any suggestions on how to correct this?

     

    Thnx in advance for your help!


  2. Good morning from sunny quarantined Belgium 🙂 Before starting work in the garden, had some time to update: ice-shocks are in full swing:

     

    IMG_6806.thumb.JPG.4470b1076680a82b03b089306aa4facd.JPG

    Almost done, then time to sand again. Previous sanding experience taught me to do this ascitity outside, and the weather is up for it. Just a couple of more layers and we're good to go.

     

    Decided to go against the plans which call for covering the whole length of the hull and then cut away the ice shock part that needs to be replaced. Had no desire to take a knife to the second planking, so cut the stern end of the ice-shock to shape:

     

    IMG_6804.thumb.JPG.f013be9edd8f54db2e5557aba18bec72.JPG

    This will eventually be sanded down to a curve, but it makes more sense somehow.


  3. 2 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

    Hi,

     

    Really nice work!

    Will you do the copper plating also? You plan to paint the hull?

     

    V

    Thnx! Still thinking about the bow plating, seems very complex to do, but I will test ebony stain to paint her, as soon as I can get my hands on it. I'm a bit concerned about glueing the catheads on paint, stain seems to be the better choice, but that still needs to be tested of course. Correct me if 'm wrong, but the ice shocks follow the curve of the top of the bulwarks, correct?


  4. Small update: second hull planking is finished 🙂

    IMG_6799.thumb.JPG.f5c4e7dfa0a986dd91082f6e027c5051.JPG

    IMG_6800.thumb.JPG.82f151a691c35ef00b37517516347e92.JPG

    IMG_6801.thumb.JPG.a2ef716f14e236284c21ecac9a28b5da.JPG

    Some minor details need to be added, followed by the last sanding. Made plenty of mistakes, and you'll probably see more I haven't even noticed, but I will continue the build, to learn and improve.

     

    Working with the veneer was a challenge, it took me some time to figure out how to cut to size without splintering but I got there. Next step, installing the ice-shocks, and then the keel.


  5. 9 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

    One mistake i did and hope you can avoid it. Dryfit bowsprit together with bow keel so you get the keel into right spot. My bowsprit didnt align with keel and i didnt dryfit bowsprit.

    Will save you quite a deal of headache if you do that.

    Thnx for the tip! Dryfitted them separately, indeed the bowsprit doesn't touch the bow piece, will correct before continuing.


  6. Small update, fitted the second planking garboard:

    IMG_6776.thumb.JPG.4f9a99cfd09d70fd02ccef3b6d87a31a.JPG

    Sorry to spam, but I feel really proud about this one. Couldn't get my head around how to approach it, but eventually worked it out. Dry fitted parts of the keel to check fitting:

    IMG_6777.thumb.JPG.be4aafe53d5ea07e56e7231d495feb63.JPG

    Question: any tips on how to cut stealers from the second planking wood? The sapelli used is very brittle, cutting it exactly is almost impossible, especially with the sharp edges used for the stealers. Thnx for your answers!

     


  7. Thnx for your comments! I know, I've been feeling her all the time, looking for edges to sand off, in the meantime being astounded that something as simple as sanding paper can really sculpt a shape into it. She feels smoother than she looks, but I'm going to go over her with some P240 to smoothen even more.

     

    Interesting, I had the same idea when it came to second planking😄 . Saw some videos online where the guy used pins to set the veneer, but when I tested that the veneer just split, so that's a no go. Probably the pins I'm using are too wide. Will try that out later today.

     

    As for the second one, although it's early days, I still feel I'm hooked, so looking at something else already: either the Occre Beagle, or when I'm feeling very ambitious, the Occre NS Mercedes. But let's finish this one first 🙂 Seems though stock is running out on these kits pretty fast, so I might move too buy and then stock until the time is right...


  8. After a lot of sanding and corrections with wood putty and then some more sanding, I think we're there:

    IMG_6769.thumb.JPG.68d7d2f6de733c597251affebbb4d7f5.JPG

    Had to do some major work on port side because of the Dremel Incident and some misaligned strips of wood the were too low to just sand flush. Filled up some of the bigger holes, repaired a misalignment on the stern, got the lower bow sorted out and cleaned up the shipyard 🙂

     

    Aaaand I'm stuck.. Next step would be second layer of planking, but as I don't have any cobbler's glue, and the stores that sell it are all shut, I can't just pop out and get some. Will keep my eye open in the supermarket to see what they have. Thought of continuing with other parts of the ship, but I don't have the paint for the masts yet, and I don't want to start on the small items of the superstructure because I know myself: these things need to be built and glued into place before they go missing/get damaged. So I'm on hold for a couple of days.

     

    I hope you're all doing well and keeping healthy in these weird times..


  9. Hi all, it seems I do have more time on my hands: as the nails kept bothering me, instead of putting the Dremel on them I decided to remove them completely, and manually. That took some time, but here's the result:

     

    IMG_6761.thumb.JPG.9b7187994de93244189a4255751c5ec4.JPG

    A more smoother surface, and about 300 nails recuperated 🙂

     

    Sanding has commenced, starting with the bow:

    IMG_6760.thumb.JPG.82361ebbdc4674b8fd65e204ba5cab23.JPG

    That was... interesting 🙂 As the plans call for straight pieces of plywood to be stacked and then sanded down, I used the Dremel with the hose to get the chunck off, before moving to the finer finish with the sanding blocks. I really need some Dremel 101 because I managed to make 2 small dents in the bow wood on the starboard side, which I can fill with wood filler of course (got my hands on that before the lockdown went into effect). Another lesson learned.

     

    After that manual sanding, and I found the P180 is doing a much better job than the P60 I was using before. Conitued using that on the hull:

    IMG_6764.thumb.JPG.bf9891dc5300e051ff4950dd7d7bb545.JPG

    Still a working progress, but am I correct in assuming there's 3 phases to hull sanding:

     

    1: Basic levelling, exposing areas that cannot be sanded down and need to be filled with wood filler

    2: Use the wood filler

    3: Sand down the wood filler and finalise.

     

    Also, I found the best way to discover unevenness is to use your fingers and go by touch. That led to some strange looks from the Admiral and the Rear-Admiral (17-year old daughter) 🙂 Am I missing a technique I haven't read about?


  10. 16 hours ago, ccoyle said:

    Yep, they really should be flush, which is why I don't use them. If not flush, that thin second-layer planking will want to show the underlying bumps. Do you have a rotary tool, like a Dremel? You might want to try some kind of grinding attachment to get those taken down easier -- sandpaper alone, as you no doubt have realized, will just want to remove the softer surrounding wood.

    Thnx for that advice, MR. Coyle. Indeed, I stopped sanding very quickly when I saw the result of working on the nails. I do have a Dremel with a hose attachment, so will try that out on some test nails later today. I can fiddle out some of the nails, but removing them all is going to damage the planks too much in some places I fear.

    1 hour ago, Wahka_est said:

    Hi,

     

    Not bad for first time planking.

    I felt my nails half out so i could remove them. If your gluing is good then remove the nails. Much easier on the sanding.

     

    Wahka

    Thnx for the support 🙂 Glue is holding on the nails I removed, but some are just too deep to be taken out without damaging the wood. Will try the Dremel approach later today. As Belgium will be put on lockdown due to the Corona virus as of midday today, I think I'll have plenty of time on my hands...


  11. Hi all,

     

    First planking is finished!

    IMG_6743.thumb.JPG.446d5328c3a226198c98907ac9301a9a.JPG

    IMG_6746.thumb.JPG.feae07c961b23fa52aa0bcad554e2de0.JPG

     

    Again, this is my first time, so be gentle 🙂 . Used a combo of plank bending pliers for the easy bends, and steam for the garboard and the planks lower to the keel. The advice I read over here: "Treat every plank as it's own project", helped.

     

    Made some mistakes I will need to correct during sanding and filling, most notably on the bow, where I did not bend the planks enough:

    IMG_6745.thumb.JPG.d96ee196373482a687079e076dd125b4.JPG

    Will think about how to solve this later, but any advice is welcome!

     

    Started sanding as well:

    IMG_6744.thumb.JPG.a7b738370902503c2b2b927a5bd3c48e.JPG

    Question:

    From the Occre videos, I saw the heads of the nails need to be filed down. 1) What is the best tool for this? and 2) How much do the nails need to be sanded down? Tried on a row with some sanding paper:

    IMG_6740.thumb.JPG.da56a43eeb36810530d01b08e46e9cb2.JPG

    Top row is sanded, bottom row not sanded. Is this enough, or do the nails really need to be flush? Quick note: there's a thin layer of second planking coming on top of this, not sure how much that will show nail bump-wise.

     

    As always, thnx for your input! 

    IMG_6741.JPG

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...