mikegr

That was a small disappointment to me also, I was tricked by the gunholes later noticed that they empty. Gotta still learn a a lot.

This is my first wooden kit. I haven't built any. However I found it on a Facebook sale for half or less of the original price and decided to give it a chance. The absense of a 3rd mast calls for a significant less rigging job. This along with the interesring silhouette of the ship drew my attention immediately. The 1/47 Scale also sounded pretty satisfactory. HMS Racehorse was an 18-gun ship-rigged (i.e. three-masted) sloop of the Royal Navy. Originally the French ship Marquis de Vaudreuil, she was captured by the Royal Navy in 1757 and refitted as a survey vessel for the 1773 Phipps expedition towards the North Pole. Renamed HMS Thunder in 1775, she was captured back by the French in 1778 Now the kit. I don't know much about the quality of the woods but considering the price that seems like a basic kit. There are two illustrated booklets one presenting other models of the firm and the other some useful electric tools to work with wood. There are four bunches of wood stripes. One for initial planking, one for final planking, one mixed.one (spare?) and a final one I suppose for the deck. Next are the detailing parts like pulleys, anchors as well as nails and a British flag so big that I could stick it on my jacket(I mostly built 1/700 scale lol). Underneath this some more brass parts. No PE included. From a first point of view there is some space for improvement like adding some extra detail perhaps some barrels, a brass bell and more Next are the parts for the hull, deck, frames, etc. These come in 2 laser cut sets, one plywood, I guess about 4mm thick and another one quite thinner from a wood unknown to me. Looks like same with the one used for final planking. Finally there is a curved brass strip which I don't know what's for, yet. Finally there is a 2 sided sheet for instructions. It occupies half of the bed I guess model is displayed in real scale 1/47 but more experts modelers will know better. It seems pretty basic I think and without planking instructions. Fortunately there is so much info online that actually I am confused of which way I should follow if ever decide to start it

I have finished the project minus rigging and some other minor repair

I have finished the gel apply. When dry I will form some bow wave and varnish. The airbrush blown some fragile rigging so I have to re work it after completion. Or find a lazy title for my model like "HMS Rodney after typhoon hit" lol.

Some SD 14 built fr Greek owners in Suderland or Skaramangas, Greece https://greekshippingmiracle.org/en/highlights/ships-built-for-greeks/general-cargo-ships-1960-69/

Thanks for the comment . I am trying to built a base similar to this but with a bit rougher sea

So I gave it a color of dark ocean blue, then air sprayed with white. I use thick acrylic for painting so I need to expertise a lot about how to thinner it and enable for a regular paint flow. Then I used sponge shocked in white to paint the "nerves" between the two waves Then disaster strikes. Obviously paper layers and glue have covered the area cutted, which resulted in hull misfitting. So I need to cut further aft. Fortunately I had some free space but it just that stern moved too much behind at the end of the base. I could dig in a bit forward but then waves should be reformed to align with the bow so I rejected this option. Next steps: Fitting hull and closing the gap with material. Apply cotton to form water foam Applylight coat of medium gel to give a rougher texture Minor painting jobs Apply body car varnish for a super glossy effect.

I built the base. Styrofoam glued on MDF to eliminate warp. I cut waves then added few layers of toilet paper and diluted PVA glue. Then I decided to use plaster to smooth the surface. First attempt this way. I formed the wakes with acrylic putty applied with gun. Then filled the space between wakes and hull with gel to give a rougher surface. Tomorrow I try airbrush paint and apply medium gel before going for final details

you mean like this

The finished model with light to medium weathering plus light chipping. The A turret has a paint peel off on the roof. This caused by accidentally using a nitro based thinner. I left it as it is, I kinda like it. Next base will be the sea base

Keeping working following strictly the 2;1,5 rule. The mail deck woodwork is done. I added a second layer of aluminum to eliminate bumps and gaps. Just to let you know aluminum has gone 30% up, not only gas. The lower section between middle and stern need more strength to repair the sagging effect. You can see the gap in the previous post, now looks much better. Lots of filling, sanding , priming etc. The worst was fitting the bilge keels. I scratched them using 2.5 mm balsa then layered with wood hardener so won't brake during working process. Several attempts made to glue them. A strong silicone based glue was used to stick the 1mm rod across the hull. But was hard to clean up the leftovers without a diluter. I managed to glue the bilge keels with CA but only step by step piece by piece. I run over titebond glue to fill gaps and strengthen them. Sand and prime. Tomorrow will look for micro works to be done.

I have finished the rigging job It is not extended much apart the rear mast but its kinda complicated and concentrated. In the real ship its even more complicated.

At last a day pic even with cloudy sky. Main deck rails, weathering and rigging need to be added. Using a small sand paper I made parallel (almost) lines of worn on weathered deck. Looks convincing I think

I couldn't imagine that a sail boat model could be so fascinated to build until I saw this.

I have added some details. Ladders, drilled holes,doors, remake the crane wirring. Also from my newly refreshed stash I put some extra life rafts with good detail. Paint them was tricky I hold them with one pin in place while paint them with a single brush hair. Finally I may need some extra hull for my heavy seas display so I made one from polystyrene. It is not perfect but its more than enough as most of it will remain hidden

For something more flexible only brass or copper wire will do. The recoil is a bit of fantasy thing. In 1/700 maybe can be omitted but in 1/535 you need to scratch it or think of it something ready available. Here's a recent work of how I use needles to make barrels. They are coated with humbrol oil based primer

for barrel improvement i use brass. I think 0.4-0.6mm would be ok in your case. Also sterile needles are good as they come in even smaller diameter. I cut them with a rotary tool with a disk cutter. Then sand a bit the edges.

An average Trumpeter kit in 1/700 would give more detailed AA guns not to mention high end brands

Definitely worth the effort

I keep working following the rule for scratch build rookies. Two steps forward, 1,5 steps behind. Even I used a mask, It took me several attempts to open portholes in correct alignment. Then I installed the frames over them. For deck planking I found an easier way. I cut a long stripe veneer and glued. Then cut it vertically every one inch. I repeat the process. Finally I used black wash to emphasize cuts and cleaned the excess wash. Sorry for the wrong shoot but itseems I have a problem with pic rotation

Indeed not much building info about it online, even its an old but decent for the price, kit. I have finished the replacement of barrels. I drilled anchor chain holes and replaced davits, some from my stash, some scratch built by copper wire

Done weathering the deck and scratch building metal barrels. A dedicated sticker for this class would be good because the engraved deck lines are very thin and are invisible after the initial thick brushed paint.

I finished the decks, have them covered them with aluminum sheet 0.10mm thick. several pieces were being used. I will fill in some putty and try to simulate the soldering effect between deck pieces. If not feel happy after paint then I will an extra one piece layer. I just need to find a few long ones somehow, about 50 cm each. Some work on hull has need done also especially at deck-hull join line.

I have started upgrading the bridge. Did some scratch built, added PE and replaced some moulded aa guns with separate ones. I lost two rangefinder antennas during process so no PE set for the rear ones. I think I will start assembly my next model on the floor. I found an easier way of bending PE precisely. I draw the lines of the piece on a paper then I bent the part according to the line. Wherever this is applicable though.

Its absolute real. F22 is more expensive and B2 is 100-150k per hour. Just before collapse of the Soviet Union, US had invested on such multibillion projects. Another one was the Seawolf class. The use of computer took the project design in a different level but then it wasn't extended until today. This along with large production numbers for export can drop the price of the F35 below 90 million dollars. A forth generation Eurofighter cost no less than 100. Japan's planned stealth fighter, 170+ millions.