mikegr
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Everything posted by mikegr
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So I gave it a color of dark ocean blue, then air sprayed with white. I use thick acrylic for painting so I need to expertise a lot about how to thinner it and enable for a regular paint flow. Then I used sponge shocked in white to paint the "nerves" between the two waves Then disaster strikes. Obviously paper layers and glue have covered the area cutted, which resulted in hull misfitting. So I need to cut further aft. Fortunately I had some free space but it just that stern moved too much behind at the end of the base. I could dig in a bit forward but then waves should be reformed to align with the bow so I rejected this option. Next steps: Fitting hull and closing the gap with material. Apply cotton to form water foam Applylight coat of medium gel to give a rougher texture Minor painting jobs Apply body car varnish for a super glossy effect.
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I built the base. Styrofoam glued on MDF to eliminate warp. I cut waves then added few layers of toilet paper and diluted PVA glue. Then I decided to use plaster to smooth the surface. First attempt this way. I formed the wakes with acrylic putty applied with gun. Then filled the space between wakes and hull with gel to give a rougher surface. Tomorrow I try airbrush paint and apply medium gel before going for final details
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The finished model with light to medium weathering plus light chipping. The A turret has a paint peel off on the roof. This caused by accidentally using a nitro based thinner. I left it as it is, I kinda like it. Next base will be the sea base
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Keeping working following strictly the 2;1,5 rule. The mail deck woodwork is done. I added a second layer of aluminum to eliminate bumps and gaps. Just to let you know aluminum has gone 30% up, not only gas. The lower section between middle and stern need more strength to repair the sagging effect. You can see the gap in the previous post, now looks much better. Lots of filling, sanding , priming etc. The worst was fitting the bilge keels. I scratched them using 2.5 mm balsa then layered with wood hardener so won't brake during working process. Several attempts made to glue them. A strong silicone based glue was used to stick the 1mm rod across the hull. But was hard to clean up the leftovers without a diluter. I managed to glue the bilge keels with CA but only step by step piece by piece. I run over titebond glue to fill gaps and strengthen them. Sand and prime. Tomorrow will look for micro works to be done.
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I have finished the rigging job It is not extended much apart the rear mast but its kinda complicated and concentrated. In the real ship its even more complicated.
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At last a day pic even with cloudy sky. Main deck rails, weathering and rigging need to be added. Using a small sand paper I made parallel (almost) lines of worn on weathered deck. Looks convincing I think
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I couldn't imagine that a sail boat model could be so fascinated to build until I saw this.
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I have added some details. Ladders, drilled holes,doors, remake the crane wirring. Also from my newly refreshed stash I put some extra life rafts with good detail. Paint them was tricky I hold them with one pin in place while paint them with a single brush hair. Finally I may need some extra hull for my heavy seas display so I made one from polystyrene. It is not perfect but its more than enough as most of it will remain hidden
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For something more flexible only brass or copper wire will do. The recoil is a bit of fantasy thing. In 1/700 maybe can be omitted but in 1/535 you need to scratch it or think of it something ready available. Here's a recent work of how I use needles to make barrels. They are coated with humbrol oil based primer
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for barrel improvement i use brass. I think 0.4-0.6mm would be ok in your case. Also sterile needles are good as they come in even smaller diameter. I cut them with a rotary tool with a disk cutter. Then sand a bit the edges.
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An average Trumpeter kit in 1/700 would give more detailed AA guns not to mention high end brands
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I keep working following the rule for scratch build rookies. Two steps forward, 1,5 steps behind. Even I used a mask, It took me several attempts to open portholes in correct alignment. Then I installed the frames over them. For deck planking I found an easier way. I cut a long stripe veneer and glued. Then cut it vertically every one inch. I repeat the process. Finally I used black wash to emphasize cuts and cleaned the excess wash. Sorry for the wrong shoot but itseems I have a problem with pic rotation
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Indeed not much building info about it online, even its an old but decent for the price, kit. I have finished the replacement of barrels. I drilled anchor chain holes and replaced davits, some from my stash, some scratch built by copper wire
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Done weathering the deck and scratch building metal barrels. A dedicated sticker for this class would be good because the engraved deck lines are very thin and are invisible after the initial thick brushed paint.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I finished the decks, have them covered them with aluminum sheet 0.10mm thick. several pieces were being used. I will fill in some putty and try to simulate the soldering effect between deck pieces. If not feel happy after paint then I will an extra one piece layer. I just need to find a few long ones somehow, about 50 cm each. Some work on hull has need done also especially at deck-hull join line.
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I have started upgrading the bridge. Did some scratch built, added PE and replaced some moulded aa guns with separate ones. I lost two rangefinder antennas during process so no PE set for the rear ones. I think I will start assembly my next model on the floor. I found an easier way of bending PE precisely. I draw the lines of the piece on a paper then I bent the part according to the line. Wherever this is applicable though.
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Its absolute real. F22 is more expensive and B2 is 100-150k per hour. Just before collapse of the Soviet Union, US had invested on such multibillion projects. Another one was the Seawolf class. The use of computer took the project design in a different level but then it wasn't extended until today. This along with large production numbers for export can drop the price of the F35 below 90 million dollars. A forth generation Eurofighter cost no less than 100. Japan's planned stealth fighter, 170+ millions.
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I did some work on the upper deck. Weathering,boat upgrade, rails and added the rear mast-crane set.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
So after some weeks of struggling with the hull I managed to take it to the desired level. I will polish it with 600 grit paper tomorrow. There's work to be done on the joint with the deck but I also have to add the deck frame with supporters there so I will deal with it later. I did though some -off hull- work after long time. I added the propeler base , rudder base and test fitted the box in the bow which I don't know what it stands for, maybe for a third anchor. It wasn't great progress but it was pleased that I switched back to creation for a while. Last thing, I need to strengthen the deck by adding aluminum sheets. To give also the desired pitch I put underneath some balsa pieces. At the deck centerline they are 1mm thick trimmed down to sharp edges towards ship's sides. Hope you got my point.
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Ι scratch built the upper part of the rear mast. Since I don't have soldering skills yet I made it in 3 parts. At the 2 joints, the vertical masts are glued. This, will offer some extra strength required for the rigging tension. As extra precaution I will use stretched sprue instead of elastic thread.
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I see some pencil lines of first set from left. That would be ideal for vertical alignment. I guess a final check would be by checking the hulk from the stern to make sure they put in the correct depth. So basically we are talking for a 3 dimension check. Definitely bit more complicated task that bend and glue as it seems initially. Not to mention that after some sets (or models) you will be able to put them by hand without the need of any tools.
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